Replacing the support bearing on a Lada Kalina without removing the strut: video instructions

Upper support of the front strut for viburnum - features of choice

As practice shows in most cases, the upper support assembly is replaced.
There are three models of “supports” on sale, which you should pay attention to when purchasing. The photo below shows original sets of supports from three companies: SEVI. SS20 (SS20), ASOMI (ASOMI). The cost of products varies from 2000 rubles. up to 4000 rub. depending on the configuration. Watch the spare parts review video:

If you do change the support bearing individually by installing it in the old support, then you should buy from trusted manufacturers, a summary table of which and photographs are presented below. Catalog number (article) - 1118-2902840.

Choosing front strut support bearings, which ones are better. Article, catalog number, price

Both the upper “support” assembled with a ball bearing (set) and individual parts are available for sale. When replacing, you should know the condition of the upper “support” housing, the upper bowl and the lock nut; if there is no damage or wear, then you will need to replace the bearing separately, otherwise you will have to change all the components.

The table provides a list of the best and recommended manufacturers of support bearings for replacement on Renault Logan. Prices, catalog numbers, and completeness of products are indicated. A complete set of Renault Logan front shock absorber support is shown in the photo, where the components are also listed.

Original factory article:

• shock absorber supports – 6001547499;
• ball bearing - 600102585.

Note:

A support bearing is a thrust single-row ball bearing consisting of a steel housing, inside of which there are rings with raceways, a cage, and balls.

Table of the best recommended shock absorber mount companies

Advice:

In terms of cost, it is more profitable to change the “support” using a repair kit, and this is also correct from the point of view of compatibility of parts.

Characteristics and dimensions of the front supports, support bearing

Video 2

In order to replace at least one of the elements that is part of the Kalina front strut, you need to remove the entire assembly from its seat.

To do this, open the hood and use a 22 wrench to rip off the upper support nut, while holding the shock absorber rod with a 9 wrench. There is no need to unscrew the nut completely yet.

We also use a wheel wrench to remove the wheel nuts and only then lift the car with a jack. Immediately you need to place a stop for belaying.

Now you can safely unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. The brake hose is attached to the strut, so it needs to be released from the mount so that it does not interfere when we remove the strut. Now we will need WD-40; we need to treat all the bolts and nuts that will have to be unscrewed. The main thing is to spray on the lower nuts and bolts of the shock absorber that secure the assembly to the steering knuckle.

We remove the steering tip nut and hit the eyelet into which the ball pin of the tip is inserted with strong blows, while inserting a pry bar between the steering tip and its mount on the rack.

If you have a special puller, you can press out the finger using it. Unscrew the two self-locking nuts securing the shock absorber to the swing arm. To do this, we use keys 17 and 19.

It is better to use similar heads and knobs.

After removing the nuts, it happens that the bolts do not come out. They have to be knocked out. You must first knock them out through a wooden block so as not to spoil the thread, and then, using a punch with a smaller diameter, knock out the bolt when it is already sunk into the steering knuckle.

Removing the Kalina front strut assembly with support and spring

If you are going to change at least one of the front suspension elements described above, then in any case you must completely remove the entire module. So, the first thing you need to do is open the hood and slightly loosen the top nut securing the support to the strut. To do this, first put a 22mm wrench on the nut, and holding the 9mm wrench to prevent the rod from turning, loosen the fastening (just make a couple of turns):

Then lift the front of the car with a jack and remove the wheel:

Immediately after, move the brake hose to the side, after first removing it from its engagement on the stand, as shown in the photo below:

Next, you need to apply penetrating lubricant to all connections that will have to be unscrewed, first of all to the fastening of the strut to the steering knuckle:

Then you need to unscrew the nut securing the steering tip to the steering arm of the front strut and knock the tip out from there (using a pry bar and a hammer), or press it out using a puller. The result is the following picture:

Now you can proceed directly to fastening the rack at the bottom, where you should unscrew the two nuts using wrenches 17 and 19 (ideally, heads with a knob):

Certain difficulties may arise here. Personally, everything was fine with the nuts, but I couldn’t knock out the bolts for a very long time. I had to knock through a wooden spacer, then hit the bolt with a punch (carefully, without damaging the thread), and only after turning the bolt from the back side with a huge lever of two knobs, I was able to deal with it:

As you can see in the photo above, in one hole there is a thin bolt - it was this that I used as a “breakthrough” to knock the original ones out. Now all that remains is to unscrew the three nuts securing the front supports to the body (glass):

The last nut should not be completely unscrewed in order for the stand to hold. And then, when you have disconnected it from the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the last nut and, holding the stand with your other hand, lower it down:

Replacing the support bearing for a viburnum (VAZ 1118, 1119, 1117)

Replacing and installing support bearings on Kalina begins with checking the condition of the remaining elements of the module: lower cup, power buffer, bump stop, corrugation, shock absorber springs. They will need to be replaced if necessary. How to correctly install the support bearing on Kalina and change it is described in order below.

1. Before assembling the front jay, make sure that the ends of the shock absorber spring rest against the special tabs at the lower and upper cups.
2. We place a rubber gasket on the top cup, with a new “support” on top of it, and orient the product upwards with the markings.

1. On top of the p/sh we install the upper part of the support (cover).
2. Now we attach the shock absorber rod nut, which we tighten until it stops.

1. Unclench the shock absorber spring ties. We tighten the rod nut with a torque wrench to the torque indicated in the table at the end of the article.
2. We install the assembled module back, first attach it to the body glass. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order: we screw the steering tip to the lever, fasten the stand with two bolts to the steering knuckle, and mount the wheel at the end. This completes the replacement.

Replacing support bearings on a Lada Granta without removing struts - step-by-step instructions

1. We hang the wheel, then remove it.

1. We unscrew the bolt securing the stabilizer strut, and then remove it so that it does not limit the travel of the strut.

1. Next, take the hexagon and, holding the strut rod with it, loosen the fastening nut.

1. We install the jack under the ball pin, and jack the rack, thereby removing the load from the second jack. At the same time, the stand will begin to “play” a little.

1. We take the spring ties and attach them to the coils. We tighten the spring quite a bit, and then lower the jack installed under the ball. After these manipulations, the stand should go down.

1. Now you need to unscrew the support bearing and rod; to do this, lower the rod down and pull out the “support” through the resulting void.

1. We clean the rubber band and support cup from dirt. If you are going to install SS-20 supports, then the lower cup will not be useful to you.

Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. I recommend lubricating the bolts and nuts with “graphite” or at least working off, and after completing all the work, do not forget to tighten everything properly. We put the wheel in place and do the same with the second “support”, after which you can safely check the work. As you can see, in order to replace the support bearing on a Lada Granta, it is not at all necessary to completely dismantle the shock absorber struts.

That’s all I have, I hope this “life hack” will be very useful to someone and will significantly “make life easier.”

How to change a support bearing without a camber on a Lada Kalina

Replacing the support bearing on Kalina without removing the strut is impossible, or will not be correct, but replacing the part without further camber is still possible. In this case, the technology for removing the rack will change:

1. After removing the wheel, unscrew the hub lock nut.
2. Disconnect the steering knuckle from the ball joint and steering rods.
3. Then we remove the steering knuckle from the CV joint with the strut and shock absorber spring, this way you will not break the camber bolts.

Video “Replacing the support bearing”

The recording shows a quick way to replace a support bearing with your own hands.

A support bearing (in common parlance “opornik”) is a subspecies that belongs to rolling bearings. This type of bearing is widely used on modern cars due to its ease of installation, ability to withstand high loads, and excellent performance characteristics.

The “support” is located under the hood, at the top point of the “glass” of the body, in which the shock-absorbing strut is installed. The support bearing is designed to connect the body and shock absorbers; thanks to the “support”, the weight of the car is transferred to the wheels, which rotate. This element of the chassis is very important; without it, handling and a comfortable ride would be out of the question.

What distinguishes a journal bearing from a regular bearing is its thick outer ring (cage). This design feature is explained by the need to withstand severe loads and impacts that come from the wheels.

How to check a support bearing

The easiest way to check the performance of a support bearing is with the help of an assistant. You need to remove the plastic cover from the strut cup, there you will see the bearing mounting nut. You need to put your hand on the support and ask an assistant to rock the car. As soon as the car starts to rock, you will immediately feel the bearing working.

If you hear a knocking or squeaking sound in the support, it is most likely faulty and needs to be replaced.

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Do-it-yourself replacement of the front strut support bearing on a Priora

Even experienced motorists sometimes do not immediately determine the causes of knocking from the front pillars. The noise is heard under the hood while driving and when turning. There is also a knocking sound in the shock absorber springs. Car control deteriorates, and noticeable play appears at the steering wheel.

The reason for these problems is most likely that the support bearing of the Priora front strut is faulty . The part itself is installed between the support cups; inside there are also rubber gaskets - vibration and noise insulators, which also wear out. “Priorka” is an unpretentious car, but failure of the “support” still happens from time to time.

If the front support bearings of a Priora (Kalina, 2110, 2112, 2111) are knocking, it’s worth doing diagnostics and replacement.

How to remove the support bearing on a viburnum - step by step guide

Replacing the Kalina front strut supports begins preparing the car. Place the car on a flat surface, if there is a lift or pit available. Engage first gear and release the parking brake. Dismantling sequence in order:

1. We unscrew the wheel bolts, then raise the car with a jack or a lift as in our case.
2. We gain access to the brake disc, but you don’t need to remove it, nor do you need to unscrew the hub locknut.

1. Let's move on to the swing arm and tie rod. First, remove the cotter pin from the fastener. Next, unscrew the nut itself.
2. After this, use a tip remover to press it out of the hole in the lever or, as a last resort, use a hammer. We install the device, tighten the thread and remove the tip.

1. Now disconnect the brake hose and speed sensor wire from the front strut.
2. Next, we find two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle and lubricate them with penetrating lubricant.

1. To unscrew the nuts, we use a 17 socket wrench, as well as a head with a ratchet.
2. The bolts will have to be knocked out; use a wooden guide to avoid damaging the threads.

1. The lower part of the module is freed, let's move on to the upper part. Unscrew the three fastenings of the front pillar to the body glass.
2. When unscrewing the last nut, hold the stand, or place a support under it, for example, a removed wheel. After this, remove the module with the support and shock absorber assembly.

1. We install two ties on the springs of the removed suspension module. As shown in the photo, we compress the shock absorber spring evenly on both sides.

Note:

In garages and car repair shops, special machines are used to compress shock absorber springs; when using them, the replacement process is faster.

1. We continue to compress the shock absorber until the upper support is freed from the spring tension, and only then unscrew the rod nut. We use the key at 19.

Attention:

The photo on the right shows the SS20 shock absorber mounts, the design is different from the standard mounts, as in the photo on the left. The essence of replacing and repairing the Kalina support bearing of different designs does not differ.

1. Now we remove the upper part of the support (cup), under which the “support” is located. We remove the old part and proceed to replacement.

What is a support bearing and a front shock absorber strut support?

The basis of a MacPherson-type spark plug suspension combines a shock absorber and a spring, that is, one telescopic spark plug is capable of both acting as an elastic element and absorbing the vibration energy of the body relative to the road.

In other words, this assembly is called a "suspension strut" or "telescopic strut".

The strut is attached from below through a ball joint to the positioning lever, and a bearing support is installed on top, allowing the strut body with the spring to rotate about its own axis under the influence of the steering rod.

The upper support directly includes the rolling bearings, housing, damping rubber elements and mounting pins.

On the one hand, the body is rigidly connected to the body shell, and on the other, the shock absorber rod and spring support cup are attached to it. Rotation occurs between them.

Bearings according to their structural organization can be divided into:

• by the nature of the rolling body - ball and roller;
• bearings with removable outer or inner races;
• integrated angular contact bearings of non-separable type;
• bearings without cages, which are a powerful cage with built-in rolling elements; the support flanges act as tracks.

During assembly, a supply of lubricant is placed in the bearing, but its operating conditions are such that it is not enough for a long time.

Signs of front strut malfunction

1. The appearance of knocking noises when driving over uneven surfaces in the area of ​​the pillar. This happens when the thrust bearing has become disintegrated and is not performing its function properly. This also happens if the coil spring bursts.
2. When hitting an obstacle, the car sways for some time due to the fact that the shock absorber itself does not dampen the vibrations.
3. During a visual inspection, if you see that the strut is wet on a dry road, this means that the front shock absorber has lost its tightness.
   Oil leaks out of it.

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Front shock absorber support bearing faults

Like any parts in a car, OPs wear out and break over time; these suspension elements have their own service life. For each car model, the shock absorber supports have their own service life; on average, parts can last from 50 to 100 thousand kilometers without replacement. But for various reasons, support bearings can fail prematurely; the main causes of failure are:

• driving a car on bad roads;
• poorly performed repairs (for example, during installation the nuts were not fully tightened);
• low quality of spare parts or defects, most often non-original parts are of poor quality;
• destruction of the OP as a result of an impact (when hitting an obstacle or due to an accident);
• ingress of dirt and moisture onto the parts of the “support”; on many car models these parts are not protected in any way.

To make sure that the upper support is faulty, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics; in general, checking the support bearing is not difficult, but it is better to diagnose the suspension together.

Table of bearing sizes 8112n and technical characteristics

Characteristics Unit of measurement Value according to GOST (TU)

Table of recommended manufacturers

No. Manufacturer Manufacturer's article Price 2021, rubles Equipment Features Retaining rings Protective cap

Advice:

When installing ss20 support bearings on a viburnum, it is recommended to install new “Vibration and Noise Insulators” for springs made of synthetic rubber; they soften the load on the suspension and shock absorbers so that a crack does not appear on the Kalina strut support, and this also prevents other malfunctions.

It is important to know:

Inside the plastic housing of the support bearing from VBF there is a single-row thrust ball bearing, marked according to GOST - 8112Н, according to ISO (51112).

Replacement

Replacing a support bearing on all cars is almost the same and differs only in some design versions of the car itself. On brands, for example, Golf 1.2, the steering lever is located at the bottom of the rack, and on others, for example, OpelCadet, VAZ 2110 and others, it is located at the top of the rack. This indicates the same upper position of the steering rack. In addition, differences may be due to limited space, for example, DaewooNexia.

Replacing the support bearing

How to change a support bearing? Let's consider an example on a Ford Mondeo car; replacing a bearing consists of the following steps:

1. In order to start work, you will need to set the car on the handbrake and lean it on reliable stands.
2. Once the machine is securely installed, both wheels must be removed. The replacement of paired spare parts in the chassis of the car should be complete, because due to the depletion of one, the second will certainly be subject to increased wear.
3. Before starting to unwind all connections, be sure to pre-treat them with WD-40 to remove any dirt. This will significantly increase the service life of all elements.
4. Next, using a 15 or 18 socket wrench, you need to loosen the clamping nut of the stand in the glass. On other brands of cars, you may need a 22 socket and a 6 hex.
5. At the next stage of replacement, you will need to unscrew the upper tip of the stabilizer link. To do this you will need a spanner and a hexagon.
6. Be sure to remove the brake hose and the wiring to the sensor from the clamps on the strut body.
7. Next, you will need to completely unscrew the bolt securing the strut to the swing arm.
8. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, you need to unscrew the bolt securing the drive to the hub.
9. At the next stage, you will need the help of an outsider. He should press on the lever, and in the meantime, using a pry bar, inserting it into the slot in the rack mounting clamp, you need to push its halves apart. The hub drive arm should slide off the strut safely. Replacing a bearing on a Mondeo precisely because of this stage is the reason why many people turn to service centers. When assembling, keep in mind that there is something like a cotter pin on it, which must fit into the cut of the clamp.
10. Next, you need to unscrew the three bolts securing the rack to the glass, they hold the support bearing.
11. At this stage, its own replacement begins. To do this, you will need to tighten the spring using a special device.
12. Using a socket and hexagon, you need to unscrew the clamping nut of the bearing itself.
13. When disassembled, it is removed from the support mechanism body using a screwdriver.
14. When installing a bearing, its rotating part must be rotated relative to the protrusion on the stationary part at an angle of 60. This measure is mandatory and is decisive when operating and distributing loads on it. You can check the angle using a protractor.
15. Reassemble all units and mechanisms in reverse order. There is no need to do the wheel alignment, because the drive lever did not unscrew from the hub. After installing all parts, it is necessary to check the bearing for runout. To do this, it is enough to tug the stand with strong jerks.