Replacement of anti-roll bar on LADA "Kalina"

The creaking of the anti-roll bar is a signature feature of the Lada Vesta. How AvtoVAZ, using an actual French platform, managed to make the stabilizer creak on almost a flat road remains a mystery.

Replacement of front struts Lada Kalina

The replacement process itself does not take much time. Knowing the procedure will help save time and money when visiting a service center.

Required tools and materials

For repairs you will need:

set of wrenches for 17, 19, 22;
flat end mounting;
small hammer;
hub key;
pliers;
rags;
wooden extension;
breakdown;
9 key to hold the shock absorber rod;
head No. 13 with ratchet;
jack or lift;
spring ties;
VD 40 or its equivalent for wedging boiled bolts.

The procedure for replacing the front struts of a Lada Kalina

Replacing Lada Kalina struts for the front part of the body is done like this.

Securely secure the car in a secure position and remove the terminals from the battery. It is advisable to wash it well first.
Open the hood and use wrench No. 22 to remove the fastening nut. At the same time, you should hold the rack rod from turning with horn No. 9.
Next, remove the wheel bolts, and then raise the car on a jack or lift.
Now you can completely dismantle the wheel.
Next, using a brush or rag, remove dirt from the surface of bolted joints and movable hinges.
The next step is to treat all bolted joints with a penetrating compound. During operation, parts often boil, which complicates their separation.
Unscrew the nut of the tip pin and use a special puller to squeeze it out of the socket. If this is not the case, you can use a hammer.
Loosen the nuts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle.
Next, knock out the bolts using a piece of wood and a punch.
Using a pry bar, wedge the assembly and the stand will be completely unscrewed at the bottom.
Next, go under the hood - unscrew the nuts securing it to the body.
After this, the block will be completely separated from the machine.

Installation of a new part is carried out in the reverse order and followed by balancing. It is noteworthy that on the Lada Kalina station wagon, replacing the front strut is carried out in the same way as on a sedan.

Replacement

Tool:

jack;
wheel wrench;
open-end wrench 19;
open-end wrench 17;
socket wrench 13;
pliers;
ring wrench 22 and open-end wrench 9;
special puller for tie rod ends;
2 special spring ties.

Execution order

We park the car on a level surface and put it in gear.
We jack up its front part on the desired side and remove the wheel.
Using pliers, unscrew the nut securing the steering tip to the strut and unscrew it with a 19 mm wrench.
Using a tip remover, remove the tip pin from the shock absorber strut. As a last resort, the finger can be knocked out by prying it up with a small pry bar and carefully tapping it from below.
Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. If necessary, hold the bolt heads with a 17 wrench.
Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the 3 nuts securing the support to the body.
We remove the entire shock absorber.
We install two ties on the shock absorber spring and compress it until the upper part of the shock absorber is released.
Using wrenches 22 and 9, unscrew the upper support nut on the upper side of the shock absorber.
We remove the support, disassemble it, and remove the worn support bearing.
We install a new one in its place.
We install the shock absorber in the reverse order.

Signs of malfunction of the anti-roll bar LADA “Kalina”

Malfunctions of the suspension stabilizer appear when cornering and driving over uneven roads. The cause of the malfunction is broken bushings or poor tightening of the nuts of the clamps holding the stabilizer bar. This manifests itself as follows:

there is a knocking noise under the hood when driving through potholes and potholes;
the car begins to “go to the side” when driving in a straight line and you have to constantly adjust its trajectory (this is especially noticeable at speed);
the car sways and rolls heavily when turning or braking;
Excessive roll appears during maneuvering.

You can independently check the bushings and stabilizer mounts as follows:

turn the wheels to the side until they stop, freeing up space in the wheel well;
grab the Kalina stabilizer with your hand and pull strongly in different directions;
If there is the slightest play, the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

A more detailed analysis of the condition can be made by driving the car onto a pit or lift. This way you can determine exactly where the knocking is coming from and which part needs to be replaced.

What is needed to replace the Kalina stabilizer

To replace the anti-roll bar you will need:

standard set of socket wrenches (socket wrenches can be used);
WD-40 liquid;
jack;
special device (extension);
hammer;
stabilizer bushings “Kalina”;
stabilizer's pole;
stabilizer bar.

To access the mounts of the struts and stabilizer, you must place the car on a viewing hole or a lift.

Replacing Kalina stabilizer bushings

Hi all! Recently there was a knocking sound in the suspension on the left side. I made a mistake on the ball joint, went for diagnostics, the master said that the bushing had become unusable. Replacement will cost several hundred rubles, plus the purchase of the bushing itself. He also said that two bushings need to be replaced, saying that if you change one, the pin may break off, and then it will be much more difficult. In general, the question is: how is Kalina stabilizer bushings replaced? I want to do the work myself

The anti-roll bar is considered one of the most reliable and stable elements in a car's suspension. However, constant driving on uneven roads and vehicle wheels falling into potholes leave their mark on the resource of the unit. Repair work boils down to replacing stabilizer bushings, which sometimes cannot withstand critical loads from road potholes and imperfections.

Reasons why you need to change the shock absorber struts of a VAZ 2110

Knock in the suspension.
A slight vibration feedback to the steering wheel, which impairs vehicle controllability.
The appearance of rocking of the front of the car.
A slight deviation of the wheels from straight-line movement.

If the driver detects such deviations, an urgent replacement of the VAZ 2110 stabilizer strut is needed. The durability of the struts depends on the quality of the road surface and the manufacturer. The price of quality products is slightly higher than that offered by less popular manufacturers of structures.

Tip: There is no need to check the wheel alignment after replacing the shock absorber struts; they do not have any effect on the wheel alignment angles.

Replacing stabilizer parts for a VAZ 2110 car

To work you need to purchase:

The wrench is set to “17”.
Driver or ratchet.
Head at "17".

The instructions suggest the following procedure:

The car is installed on a viewing hole or its front part is raised and fixed on supports.
For safe operation, the car is placed on the handbrake.

Tip: To prevent unexpected movement, the car must be firmly secured in place by placing “shoes” or wheel chocks under the rear wheels.

Unscrew one nut at a time, securing the car body to the arms of the anti-roll bar struts, on both sides.

The spring washers are removed.
The bolts are removed from both sides.
Unscrew two nuts holding the stabilizer bars to the body.
The spring washers are removed from the studs.
Along with the struts, the brackets and stabilizer bar are pulled out.
If you only need to replace the stabilizer bar on a VAZ 2110 or its bushings, unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the levers, then knock the struts off the assembly rod with a polymer or wooden hammer.
The VAZ 2110 stabilizer strut and bushing are visually inspected. In case of deformation of the racks, rupture, wear, loss of elasticity, cracks or loose fit of the bushings to the surface of the rod, all elements are replaced with new parts.

Replacing Kalina stabilizer bushings

We arm ourselves with a set of screwdrivers, wrenches and sockets. Of course, you need to purchase a set of new bushings in advance; they are inexpensive. We treat soured nuts with WD-40, having first installed the car in an inspection hole. We tear off the nuts, dismantle the strut, rod and stabilizer bracket. Next, unscrew the fasteners that hold the stabilizer link to the arm. Using a hammer, knock down the stabilizer link, then change the bushing itself.

In general, the work is not difficult, but dusty. Next, we assemble the structure in the reverse order. Tighten the nuts holding the stabilizer link. We put back all the clamps and fasteners of the unit. At this point the work can be considered completed. After this, be sure to run the car in a free area, feel how the car behaves with the new bushings. Whether the problem went away or not. Good luck.

Signs of malfunction of the anti-roll bar LADA “Kalina”

there is a knocking noise under the hood when driving through potholes and potholes;
the car begins to “go to the side” when driving in a straight line and you have to constantly adjust its trajectory (this is especially noticeable at speed);
the car sways and rolls heavily when turning or braking;
Excessive roll appears during maneuvering.

You can independently check the bushings and stabilizer mounts as follows:

turn the wheels to the side until they stop, freeing up space in the wheel well;
grab the Kalina stabilizer with your hand and pull strongly in different directions;
If there is the slightest play, the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

A more detailed analysis of the condition can be made by driving the car onto a pit or lift. This way you can determine exactly where the knocking is coming from and which part needs to be replaced.

What is needed to replace the Kalina stabilizer

To replace the anti-roll bar you will need:

standard set of socket wrenches (socket wrenches can be used);
WD-40 liquid;
jack;
special device (extension);
hammer;
stabilizer bushings “Kalina”;
stabilizer's pole;
stabilizer bar.

To access the mounts of the struts and stabilizer, you must place the car on a viewing hole or a lift.

Saving on maintenance of technical equipment;
Purchase and installation of low-quality parts;
Violation of the rules for operating the vehicle by the driver;
Manufacturing defect;
Natural wear and tear of components due to prolonged use without intermediate preventive maintenance;
Rupture of the boot, water entering the metal structure;
Excessive wear of subframe silent blocks.

We replace suspension elements in pairs; it is unsafe to leave worn parts in their original places. Repeated repairs will be required soon.

We drive the Lada Vesta into the inspection channel and ensure safety measures during the work;
Jack up the side, unscrew the bolts, remove the wheel;
Alternately unscrew the upper and lower mounts of the stabilizer bar;
We carry out troubleshooting of the mounting socket, if there are no defects, we install a new stand and screw the nuts.

If the silent blocks need to be replaced, additionally unscrew the fastening of the ball joint and remove the suspension arm. We fix it in a stationary vice and press out the worn silent blocks. We troubleshoot the lugs, clean the surface of rubber residues, and press in new polyurethane bushings. We assemble the structure in reverse order.

Motorists claim that polyurethane bushings are interchangeable with Lada Kalina. It is not yet known what they are suitable for.

Sometimes the source of the knock is worn out cross member bushings. To replace consumables, additionally unscrew the beam mount, remove the rubber bushings, and install new ones. We screw the mechanisms back on.

Replacement of anti-roll bar elements Lada Kalina 1117 2004 - 2013

Tools:

Straight box spanner 17 mm (2 pcs.)
Driver for socket attachment
Knob attachment 13 mm
Soft metal drift
Small flat screwdriver
Knife

Parts and consumables:

Soap
Water
Aerosol lubricant type WD-40
Stabilizer bar cushions

Notes:

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. Removal of the right stabilizer bar link is shown. The left pillar is removed in the same way.

1. Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the nut securing the stabilizer link to the front suspension arm, holding the bolt with a wrench of the same size.

2. Use a soft metal drift to knock out the bolt.

Soft metal knockouts.

3. To make it easier to remove the strut from the stabilizer bar, unscrew the two nuts securing the stabilizer pad bracket on the right side (as shown below). Lowering the right part of the stabilizer, remove the strut from the stabilizer bar.

4. As a rule, on cars with high mileage, worn struts can be easily removed. If the stand cannot be removed immediately, we recommend inserting a thin screwdriver blade between the rod rod and the rubber bushing and pressing out the rubber. After this, a penetrating liquid such as WD-40 should be injected into the resulting gap and, shaking the strut from side to side, remove it from the stabilizer bar.

5. We install the new rack in the reverse order, having first cleaned the end of the rod and lubricated it with a soap solution.

6. To replace the stabilizer bar cushions, unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the stabilizer bar struts to the arms and remove the bolts.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nuts securing the pillow bracket.

7. Remove the bracket and stabilizer link from the rod (see above).

8. Remove the cushion from the barbell.

9. As a rule, worn-out cushions can be easily removed from the bar, but if there is difficulty, cut the cushion with a knife and remove it.

10. Install the new pillow in the reverse order, lubricating the rod and the hole in the pillow with soapy water.

11. Replace the cushion on the other side of the stabilizer bar in the same way. To remove the anti-roll bar, disconnect the additional muffler pipe from the catenary collector, as described here. We disconnect the stabilizer bar struts from the front suspension arms and remove the stabilizer bar cushion brackets (see above).

Remove the anti-roll bar.

12. Install the anti-roll bar in the reverse order.

The article is missing:

High-quality photos of repairs

avtoexperts.ru

Very often, novice car owners are faced with the problem of misunderstanding why a stabilizer is needed in principle. To explain what the stand itself is, it is necessary to understand the structure of the entire “bar.” In technical terms, the correct name for it is an anti-roll bar, for example, it is of a different type at the back and front, see the photo for more details. It is necessary in order to reduce the horizontal roll of the car body when driving, especially when cornering. As for the “bar” racks themselves, they serve to install the latter on the frame. This provides a “live” connection of the elements with the hub or steering knuckle.

Types of stabilizer struts

Remember that depending on the suspension configuration, the shape of the struts and even the principle of attachment to the car body change. It is also necessary to distinguish between some features of the front and rear pillars in different car models. In models where the rear suspension is of a multi-link configuration, “bones” are usually used - these are U-shaped figures, with hinges at the edges. There are also “eggs”, as they are popularly called. They are used, for example, on domestic VAZs, for attaching the front and rear stabilizers.

Device

Often, the stand is a rod from 4 cm to 20 cm. At both ends of the “bone” there are special hinges that provide “live” fastening. There are many options and varieties, for example, it can be only two bushings (rubber bands), a hinge with a thread, or a hinge and a bushing. Also, do not forget about “eggs”, where a rubber or polyurethane bushing is used instead of hinges.

Front struts for Kalina: which ones are better to choose

Let's start with the fact that Kalina's rear shock absorbers often take more care than the front ones. For this reason, it is Kalina front struts or Kalina 2 struts that are more in demand on the market. That being said, there are several solutions available that can be used for replacement. As a result, drivers often find it difficult to answer which struts to take, oil or gas, as well as which manufacturer, etc.

Let us immediately note that at the Kalina factory it is equipped with SAAZ oil struts. The advantages include softness and affordable cost. At the same time, the handling is not the best, and the struts do not have a long service life and knock in winter until the oil warms up in the shock absorber. To improve handling and gain greater reliability, you can replace the standard shock absorbers with Kayaba ones. Moreover, if you need a Kalina strut, many people prefer Japanese Kayaba shock absorbers (KYB).

However, not everything is as smooth as it may seem. On the one hand, the Kalina rear strut or the front struts for the Kalina of this company are distinguished by good characteristics and performance. Handling and stability are noticeably improved, the car holds the road better, rolls less when cornering, the struts themselves last longer, etc.

We also note that some of the negative reviews are the result of the fact that, given the popularity of the brand, there are a huge number of fakes on the market. When choosing, you need to purchase products only from authorized dealers. Also, when installing racks on a car, it is important to follow all the rules, properly bleed the racks, etc.

If Kayaba is not suitable for one reason or another, you can choose ASOMI or SS racks. These are domestic manufacturers specializing in the production of parts for VAZ, GAZ.

Of course, the quality of the racks is inferior to the original Kayaba, but they often perform better than the stock ones. Moreover, in practice, for Kalina, the SS line is often considered the best solution (for example, SS-20 for Lada Kalina). If this Kalina front strut is considered, the price will definitely be more favorable than the Japanese counterpart.

On these racks, when properly selected, the car becomes medium in rigidity, while comfort is maintained and handling does not suffer much. Another plus is a two-year warranty versus 1 year for ASOMI.

Note that the “Standard” struts are similar to the factory ones, however, the “Highway” and “Sport” versions differ from both the stock and the “Standard” line. For example, “Sport” is softer than Kayaba when driving on bad roads, but holds the car very well on the highway.

As you can see, the issue of selecting shock absorbers is not as straightforward as it might seem at first glance. In the case of Lada Kalina, well-known imported KYB shock absorbers are not always the optimal solution.

For example, some owners of this car often practice a scheme where the Kalina rear strut remains standard, and SS-20 are installed in front. This allows for improved handling without sacrificing comfort. One way or another, the information above allows you to choose the best option, taking into account individual preferences, goals and objectives.

Causes of knocking in the front suspension

In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.

The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface . A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack . If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity . Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.

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Symptoms of faulty bushings

If the diagnostics showed that it was the bushings that were faulty, then, in fact, nothing bad happened. If the rod had been damaged, more costly repairs would have been required. Symptoms of the malfunction are eloquently evident when driving over uneven surfaces, and they are as follows:

The appearance of a knock under the hood
While driving on a straight road, the car begins to pull to the side
The car sways and rolls to the sides when turning

You can also check the bushings yourself; to do this, you need to turn the wheel to the side until it stops, and then grab the stabilizer and start pulling it from side to side. If play is detected, the bushing must be replaced first.