The 4th speed of the VAZ 2110 stove does not work

Solving problems with a faulty VAZ-2110 heater speed switch

The heating device, which is installed in the domestic VAZ-2110, is a separate system consisting of several devices. The main element of the design is the unit, the functioning of which determines the preparation of the air flow entering the vehicle interior. The stove block is located under the hood of the car, with its help the speed at which the air flows, as well as its temperature, is adjusted. In addition to the central unit, the system includes an air distributor. It is worth noting that all the air ducts that are on the VAZ-2110 are located inside the car on the instrument panel. The Volga "ten" is equipped with a special stove "2110-01", which differs from other models in the presence of an evaporator in the standard climate control device. In the article we will look at the reasons why the VAZ-2110 stove mode switch does not work, and we will also provide instructions for troubleshooting problems that have arisen in each of the units.

Repair of the stove control system

If a motorist encounters a problem due to which the VAZ-2110 stove mode switch does not work, then, as mentioned above, the automatic control system of this unit will have to be repaired. To eliminate doubts as to which device has a malfunction, you can use a unit that is known to work, by connecting which the car owner will be able to dismantle the buttons that are located near the device and remove the old heater control unit.

To improve the operation of the system, you should place the regulators in the extreme position (0) and remove them. Then you will have to spend time removing the front cover and glass from the latches. After this, you need to get rid of all fasteners, in particular, 2 front and 1 rear screws.

The plastic base contains a board that will have to be removed in order to check the integrity of all its components. You should carefully examine the condition of the tracks, jumpers and resistors. Sometimes the first position of the VAZ-2110 stove does not work due to an ordinary break in the jumper, in this case it is necessary to correct the position with a soldering iron, soldering the break on both sides. The assembly process is carried out in reverse order. If the system elements are in order, all speeds of the unit should function as normal.

First speed malfunction

If the first speed of the VAZ-2110 stove does not work, the problem may be hidden in the resistor. The fact is that all fan speeds of the heating device are powered by an additional heater resistor located under the frill. Experts often encounter failure of this resistor. It is worth noting that repair of the first position may depend solely on the type of fixture installed. The SAUO unit of the domestic VAZ-2110 may have such an additional resistor as:

RDO 2108-8101081, such a unit can be found exclusively on the earliest machines, which are equipped with only two fan speeds;
RDO 2110-8118022-01 is present on the modernized version of the previous device; this stove unit is equipped with three speeds. Such units are characterized by breakdown of the first two speeds, when only the third maximum value of the switch functions normally. This malfunction is caused by an unsoldered thermal fuse, which can be fixed with a soldering iron. If such a reason appears with periodic regularity, it will be necessary to recheck the motor. The unit may require additional lubrication; in addition, possible wear of the brush assembly cannot be ruled out.
RDO 2123-2118022 is found only on the latest stoves of the domestic VAZ-2110; it has four fan speeds, but does not have an automatic position.

If the first position of the VAZ-2110 heater does not work, then the problem may be hidden not in the heater resistor, but in the contacts of the ACS board. High temperatures cause the board to heat up and lead to unsoldered contacts. Most often, this malfunction damages the contacts at the power supply points. To get rid of a malfunction due to which the second speed of the VAZ-2110 stove does not work (the causes of problems with speeds 1 and 2 are most often identical), you should clean the contacts.

If the 3rd speed of the VAZ-2110 stove does not work, then this is direct evidence that it functions without resistance, in other words, directly. Most likely, the problem may be hidden in the contacts of the heating device control system (stripping or crimping will help in this situation), or in the contacts located directly on the unit board. It is worth noting that this solution to problems is effective on units with three fan speeds.

If the 4th speed of the VAZ-2110 stove, which has positions 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, does not work, then it is necessary to look for reasons identical to the problems of the non-functioning 1st speed of the heater. In addition, the malfunctions may be the same as when the third position fails to work.

If it is not possible to adjust the temperature on the SUAO unit, then most likely you will have to remove the unit, disassemble it and inspect all existing tracks and contacts. If there are no visible defects, you will need to look for the cause in poor contacts of the fuse box. On the back side of the block there is a small six-terminal chip, on which a blue wire is soldered, going to the fan. Quite often, this wire burns at the connection point. The situation can be corrected by replacing the chip and crimping a new connector. The motorist will have to remove the block, disassemble it and solder the leg, which often comes off due to severe overheating.

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SAUO pinout:

The SAUO receives information from:

– cabin air temperature sensor (No. 6), which has a built-in small-sized fan.
– MMR (micromotor reducer) (No. 9), information about the position of the heater damper.

Damper control : Based on the received information and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.

The VAZ 2110 stove does not work: diagnostics and repair

Having decided on the main reasons, it is necessary to begin diagnostics. First of all, problems with temperature regulation may be associated with a breakdown of the control unit or damper.

First, you should check the temperature sensor on the ceiling, which is located near the interior lamp. Simply put, malfunctions in its operation lead to the fact that the required command does not reach the damper and the stove does not heat.

Checking the sensor is easy. To do this, you need to move the control knob first to one extreme position, and then to the other. At the same time, you should check whether there is a change in the temperature of the incoming air.

The temperature may not change completely, or the air becomes warmer only when the handle is in the extreme maximum position. If the temperature does not change, then the problem is not in the sensor. In the second case, the culprit may well be the controller, which is replaced with a working device.

A breakdown of the gear motor often results in the heater blowing cold air into the cabin after turning on the heating. This is a common problem. As a rule, replacing the heater gear motor allows you to normalize the operation of the system.

To change this element, you need to remove the windshield wipers, dismantle the frill by unscrewing the screws. Then you need to disconnect the wiring from the gearmotor, remove the faulty device and install a working one.

If there is a suspicion that the heater of the VAZ 2110 stove has failed, you will need to remove the main deflector for inspection. To do this, you need to straighten the fasteners and move the damper. By the way, you can get to the damper from the engine compartment.

The inspection allows you to determine whether there is a need to replace the radiator. If this is the case, you need to disassemble the stove. You can read below about how to remove the radiator of a VAZ 2110 stove with your own hands.

If the air is warm, but not warmed up enough or supplied poorly, it is recommended to change the damper. Instead of a standard plastic solution, it is better to buy an aluminum heater damper from a VAZ.

This eliminates possible deformation of the damper during switching, as well as improves heat retention. As a result, the heating system works more efficiently, the air is supplied hotter, which allows you to warm up the interior more efficiently and quickly.

Checking the operation of the automatic control system

To diagnose this system, you need to have a multimeter so you can measure the current on the pink and brown wires.
The voltage can have different values, it depends on which controller is built into the car. For example, in older cars - before 2002 - heater control controllers 1303.3854 were installed, in this case the voltage at the minimum position changes in about 14 seconds, and at the maximum value it is supplied stably. Therefore, if the voltage of the ACS unit at the output has a constant value, it is faulty. On newer cars since 2003, the built-in unit is 1323.3854, and the stove is 2111-8101012.

Causes of malfunctions

Depending on the design of the stove, the damper may cause a disruption in the efficient operation of the heater for the following reasons:

deformation;
wear of seals;
deterioration or damage to control levers and rods;
skew.

Deformation is a problem with old-style heaters. The first dampers of the VAZ-2110 stove were equipped with plastic elements that bent under the influence of temperature. Because of this, even when completely closed, cold air from outside leaks in and mixes with the heated air, and the efficiency of the stove decreases. Subsequently, the designers replaced the plastic flaps with aluminum ones and the problem with deformation disappeared.

To ensure tightness, the dampers have seals that reduce air leakage. Initially, foam rubber seals were used, which quickly wore out and became damaged. Later, foam rubber was replaced with rubber, but this only extended the service life of the seal; over time, the rubber ages, cracks and collapses.

What to do if the stove does not turn on in any speed mode

If the VAZ 2110 stove unit does not work, the problem lies in the operation of the electrical network, since its electric motor is quite reliable and rarely fails. Before work you need to prepare a set of tools:

Tweezers for removing fuses.
Screwdriver Set.
Chain tester.
Jumper with contacts.
12 V indicator lamp (control).
Wooden stand.

When working with wires, you may need pliers, wire cutters and other standard tools from an auto electrician's kit.

Checking the fuse

If a malfunction is detected in the VAZ 2110-12 heater and it does not turn on at any speed, the first thing to check is the fuse responsible for its operation. This fuse is located in the block located in the passenger compartment to the left of the steering column, has the number F18 and is rated at 25 A.

Having opened the block, remove it carefully using tweezers and check it with a device, since a visual inspection can only reveal obvious signs of burnout. To do this, a device is connected to both contacts of the fuse, and if the circuit is restored and the fuse is intact, it will give a signal. When using a multimeter, you need to remember to set the appropriate 25 A settings. If the problem is in the fuse, it must be replaced.

The control checks the voltage on the fuse installed in the block; for this, when the ignition is turned on, one contact closes to ground, the second to the fuse; if everything is normal, the light on the device will light up. The ignition must be turned on. If there is no voltage, you need to check the supply wiring.

Heater unit connector

To get to the connector, you need to remove the heater unit and disconnect it. After this, you need to use a tester to check whether voltage is supplied to the control unit through the contact block to which it was connected. The plus is supplied through the blue wire, but there may be another connector, so they need to be checked methodically. Contact with the heater is established via the red wire.

To check the engine, place a jumper in the contact where the positive was detected, and a second jumper in the contact with the red wire. If the engine does not start, the failure of the stove does not depend on the control unit. Otherwise, you need to disassemble the block or simply replace it with a new one.

Checking the electric motor

You can check the operation of the electric motor only from the engine compartment. It is located under the windshield and is covered with a plastic cover that needs to be pushed aside by hand. With the jumper left in the connector and the ignition on, you need to install a wooden pad (a hammer handle will do) and hit the engine several times. Sometimes it happens that the brushes get stuck in it and after several blows they fall into place, the electric motor starts working.

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.

The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
The fan does not turn on.
Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.

On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, to remove the electric fan you need to:

Dismantle the frill.
Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
Remove the back cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.

As for models with a new type of stove, the technology for removing the electric stove fan on such cars is different:

dismantle the “jabot” and the front wall;
remove the air filter;
unscrew the fastening of the filter housing to the stove body and separate them;
disconnect the wiring;
remove the filter housing together with the fan;
dismantle the electric fan.

After removing the electric motor with the impeller, we disassemble it, perform troubleshooting, replace worn elements and put it back together.

Video: Replacing the heater motor (heater fan) VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

Checking the resistance resistor

The stove resistor has two spirals with different resistances, the first has 0.24 Ohms, the second has 0.81 Ohms.
If these two spirals are activated simultaneously, then the electric motor of the stove operates in the first temperature mode, and if only on the first spiral, the second speed operates. If the electric motor is turned on without the help of a resistor, then the fan rotor operates in the third position - the most powerful.

Fuse problems

There are several main reasons for the malfunction of the stove fan located on the opposite side of the radiator. One of them is the failure of the fuse. This part is easy to replace. To prevent the breakdown from happening again, it is necessary to find a problem in the power supply circuit of several vehicle systems. The element itself is located in the installation box of the engine compartment of the VAZ-2110. Before replacing it, you need to check it with a multimeter: connect the probes of the device to the fuse contacts and carry out the test in test mode. If the multitester shows “0”, you need to replace the element - it has failed.

The fuse, located in the VAZ-2110 in place of the F-7, has a current strength of 30 A. It is responsible for the operation of several components:

heated rear windows and mirrors;
stove fan;
lighting of the glove box in the cabin;
headlight washer;
cigarette lighter

To find the cause of the fuse failure, you need to look at the power supply to all these nodes. The conductors must not be damaged and the terminal blocks must be free of oxide. If you see a green coating on the contacts, then you need to clean them with sandpaper. Check all the pads and the strength of the wire connections in them. There is a simple way to test wiring for the presence of oxide - move the wires. If after this the fan or any other component starts to work, then you need to clean the contacts.

Sometimes the fuse is good, but the fan still sends a weak air flow into the cabin or turns on completely every once in a while. In this case, you need to look at the quality of its installation. It is possible that the elements through which the device supplies power have become loose, so the contact periodically disappears.

It's time to clean the interior heater radiator

As a result of untimely replacement of the coolant, the formation of scale, dust and other elements begins in the system, which clog the pipes and form plugs in them. And since the radiator pipes of the cabin heater are the narrowest of all, the plug forms here. As a result, air flows from the deflectors, but it is absolutely not hot, and the motorist gets the impression that the heater in his car is not blowing well.

It is enough to clean this same radiator and pipes, and the interior will become hot again.

Heater damper malfunctions

In this case, the problem will not be local. You will encounter the fact that the stove does not blow well into your feet, or, conversely, into your face. And the reason for this may be a jammed damper, which directs the air flow. The problem, in fact, is trivial and can be eliminated by cleaning the damper.

The heater motor is not working well

Another reason, which occurs mainly among domestic cars , is the heater motor not rotating fast enough. Perhaps the motor itself is already worn out and is not capable of developing a normal rotation speed, or perhaps the contacts were mixed up when connecting it. If the problem occurs due to the first reason, you will have to change the heater motor if you don’t want to freeze every winter. If it’s all the fault of the unfortunate master who mixed up the contacts, connect the motor by turning the contact connector over. In most cases, when the heater of a VAZ 2110 or any other car is not blowing well, such a solution allows you to forget about the problem once and for all.

Some cars are designed in such a way that the stove heats up the interior rather slowly. A striking example of this is the VAZ 2109. That is why their owners found an interesting way out of the situation; they installed a second pump, which increases the flow of coolant. As a result, heat transfer from the liquid occurs much faster than in a car with a factory design, and the interior warms up in a matter of seconds. Perhaps such a modification is necessary on your car?

Author: Denis Kirsanov - Auto Redemption Specialist with 10 years of experience!

Tips and tricks

VAZ 2110 owners often note that even when the stove is working properly, the air flow on the side windows and legs is insufficient. In such conditions, your feet get cold and your windows fog up. In this case, many people modify the air ducts in the car interior itself. To upgrade the heating system, you need to remove all the panels and disassemble them, seal the gaps, cracks, etc. Sealing is very important; all fastening points are also “packed” separately.

The damper and standard seal are also removed. Next, the valve is glued, and the cracks on the driver and passenger sides are processed. Often, during modification, the standard air distributor is removed, after which corrugated tubes with a diameter of at least 4 cm are installed.

Let’s also add that in order to increase the efficiency of the VAZ 2110 stove, you need to pay attention to how the floor mats are laid in the cabin. Sometimes the outlet of hot air into the feet is blocked by the carpets in the car. If necessary, the nozzles can be raised a little higher.

Finally, we note that it is optimal to turn on the heater in the “windshield/legs” position. This will prevent the front windows from fogging up; also, heating the feet makes it possible to warm up the interior more effectively than blowing air only from the central and side deflectors.