Replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114

Hi all. We will replace the outer CV joint of the VAZ 2114. This is not a difficult job; if you have the tools, you can do it yourself.

Tools:

• good wrench and head for thirty
• hammer and screwdriver to hit
• pipe
• wooden block
• universal tongs and pliers

Vendor code:

• 2108-2215012 — external CV joint. I recommend installing a CV joint from GKN-Spidan, Loebro.

Step by step replacement

1. Remove the decorative cover of the hub nut and flare it.

2. We rip off the hub nut, if you can’t rip it off, then put the pipe on the knob for the lever.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Unscrew the 2 ball fastening bolts.

5. Completely unscrew the hub nut.

6. Remove the rubber band securing the brake hose from the groove and pull the hub towards you so that the CV joint comes out of the hub.

7. As a rule, the boot is already torn, so we place the pipe on the inside of the CV joint and knock it out of its seat.

8. Remove the metal ring on the drive shaft. This ring comes with the new CV joint and needs to be replaced.

9. Fill the CV joint with lubricant, it is included in the kit.

10. We put the ring on the drive shaft.

11. We put on the boot, lightly coated with the same lubricant as in the CV joint.

12. We put the CV joint on the splines on the drive shaft and stuff it through a wooden adapter.

13. Move the boot closer to the CV joint and secure one side of the boot with a clamp. Tighten the clamp using pliers.

14. Fix the other side of the boot with a clamp. Tighten the clamp with pliers.

15. Mount the CV joint into the hub. Install the washer and tighten the hub nut. All this comes new complete with CV joint.

16. Fasten the two ball bolts. Use a pry bar to press the lever down and align the ball mounting holes.

Do everything slowly so as not to tear the new boot.

17. Install the rubber band into the groove that secures the brake hose.

18. Install the wheel and remove the car from the jack.

19. Tighten the hub nut.

20. Raise the car and remove the wheel.

21. Roll the nut and install the wheel.

Installing new hinges

And the final stage remains - installing new hinges on the drive. You already know almost everything about how to change a grenade on a VAZ-2109. All that remains is to install a new element.

First, wash the shaft, get rid of dust and lubricant residues, then put on a new boot. Next, perform the following manipulations:

1. Install a new retaining ring.
2. Carefully, trying not to damage it, place the grenade on the shaft. To make it sit down, you need to apply several sharp blows through the wood spacer.
3. Apply lubricant under the boot and on the inside of the hinge. By the way, the kit comes with a small amount, it is recommended to add a little more.
4. Secure the boot with two clamps.

Once you have assembled the entire drive, you can begin installing it on the car. The work is done in reverse order. First put the inner CV joint in place, then the outer one.

Tighten the nut and secure it with a chisel. To prevent corrosion, you can apply a small amount of Litol to the nut and close it with a cap. Now you know how to change a grenade on a VAZ-2109 yourself. The procedure will not take much time, but you can save a lot of money. Workshops will charge about the same amount for repairs as a set of hinges costs (about 1,000 rubles).

Hello!
My VAZ 2109 requires replacement of the outer grenades, that is, the CV joint. I bought these from a friend at an interesting price:
now I’m hesitating on further actions: install different ones, or buy Belmarg or trial and install the same ones? If you buy, which one? OR BOTH BULLSHIT. -) WHAT TO DO?

Comments 67

I would take GLO, Belmag is definitely bullshit, I don’t know about the second one, well, since you bought it, put different ones, there’s nothing supernatural in this, as soon as one of them crunches, you take the same ones, although if you keep an eye on the anthers, they’re unlikely to crunch on you))

The left outer GLO has already passed 60 thousand, the rest of the Lada-Detal - about 45 each. Everything is normal, no crunch. The boots on the GLO and the internal ones are original, on the external Lada-Detal I changed them once.

Set it and forget it. When necessary, they will remind you of themselves... sooner or later, and there you will already draw conclusions, which are better, which are worse. And so many different companies will recommend it, you’ll hear enough, buy it, and it will move a little and then crunch again. Either people gave the wrong advice, or marriage, or a leftist...

I used both options. About 20 thousand passed. So it’s complete crap. I put it on, so to speak, the original - I don’t worry.

enough for a couple of years, don't worry

Belmag itself built the norm, everything is done according to GOST standards. Trialli CHINA soft metal .GLO is also shit. China will not send us good things.

In my opinion about bullshit, how much did you even get it for?

Replacing the inner and outer CV joints on a VAZ 2114

Knocks in the chassis are a frequent companion in life for VAZ 2114 owners. Many elements that can cause knocking, bad roads, and low-quality parts can cause extraneous noise in the suspension.
A common source of the problem is the angular velocity distributor, or CV joint (grenade). The process of replacing a part is simple, so you can change it yourself. The question is often asked which CV joint for the VAZ 2114 is better: regular or tripoid. Among the most common arguments: tripoid is more reliable, but it hums and vibrates at high speeds. The regular one is less reliable, but the car handles better at high speed. However, you can find opposing opinions and arguments on this matter.

There is no clear answer which type is better. Operation in harsh conditions showed that there is no fundamental difference in driving sensations and reliability. The main thing is to buy a high-quality grenade made of well-hardened metal, install it correctly and monitor the safety of the anthers.

Scheme for disassembling the VAZ 2114 CV joint

Causes of malfunction

Among the main causes of CV joint failure:

• low quality metal and lubricant;
• insufficient amount of lubricant;
• rupture of the boot, entry of dirt.

The CV joint is a moving element, so it heats up when moving. A lack of lubricant or its lack of the necessary properties leads to wear of the hinges and the appearance of extraneous sounds. Due to the rupture of the boot, dirt gets into the grenade, solid particles harm the moving elements.

Fault diagnosis

The VAZ 2114 has 2 external and 2 internal CV joints. First you need to determine which one is knocking. The optimal test would be on a suspension diagnostic stand. If this is not possible, diagnosis by ear is possible.

Two signs indicate a grenade malfunction in a VAZ 2114:

• the sound resembles a crunch;
• It usually appears when turning.

The simplest and most accurate way to do a garage check is as follows:

1. Place the car on a flat surface;
2. Turn the wheels to one side (to the middle position or a little further);
3. Drive off with medium speed. It is worth remembering that starting too smoothly may not reveal a crunch due to insufficient load on the CV joint, and starting too abruptly may lead to the drive flying out of the wheel.
4. Repeat the operation by turning the steering wheel in the other direction. The appearance of a crunch indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint on the side in which the steering wheel is turned.

Visual detection of ruptured anthers will also be a sign of a CV joint failure. If you discover a damaged protection for any grenade, it must be immediately removed, disassembled and cleaned. If there is enough grease and there is no significant wear on the hinges yet, it is enough to replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the wear of the balls is obvious, it is better to change the grenade.

CV joint boot VAZ 2114 with a defect

It is more difficult to diagnose a malfunction of the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114. If it malfunctions, it crunches when starting off in a straight direction, and not when turning. But the same symptoms, for example, include play in the steering rack or wear on the engine mounts.

Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed from the pit by tugging on the drive from the gearbox side: strong play or the appearance of extraneous sounds indicate that the internal CV joint should be replaced.

Replacement

It is better to change a grenade yourself with an assistant.

Algorithm:

• remove the wheel, remove the wheel bolts and the hub nut washer;
• unscrew the ball from the steering knuckle;
• pull out the splined end of the outer CV joint;
• pull out the drive with the internal CV joint from the gearbox;
• if you plan to remove both drives, remove the internal grenade from the drive and insert it into the gearbox so that the differential does not move after removing the second drive;
• remove or cut off the anthers, thoroughly clean all hinges with a special liquid or just gasoline;
• when filling the CV joint, use a special lubricant suitable for these purposes; ordinary lithol does not have the required temperature characteristics;
• the retaining rings of each CV joint and the hub nut must be replaced;
• The inner CV joints are inserted into the gearbox until they are completely fixed; when adjusting, you can use a hammer with a wooden spacer.

It is quite possible to diagnose and replace a CV joint with your own hands. This does not require sophisticated car mechanic skills and engineering knowledge, but it allows you to get in touch with the car, see and feel how it works. Whatever the reason for the crunching sound, you need to check the condition of the grenade as quickly as possible. Delaying this will almost certainly mean bringing the part to the point of complete wear, and timely repairs will allow you to get by with “little loss.”

Causes of CV joint failure

Unlike other cars, it is especially difficult for the VAZ-2109 to keep the grenade boot in working condition for a long period. The main reasons for its failure, first of all, can be unfavorable climatic and external factors. As a result, cracks will form on the parts, and further operation will be impossible. Through the torn mechanism, dust and dirt get inside the hinge, and because of this, the grenade parts wear out. It is not difficult to detect this: when the car is moving and when turning, the car makes a “crunching” sound, and this is already the first signal.

If, after you heard a suspicious crunch in your VAZ-2109, you came to the garage and found traces of grease on the hinge, then you immediately need to completely replace the CV joint along with the boot, since the parts of this mechanism cannot be interchanged.

Replacing the outer CV joint boot of a VAZ 2114

Yesterday late at night I came from the garage, as in that song “Tired, hungry and angry, but very pleased with myself!” Anthers have been replaced. And it was like this.

So for work we need:

• CV boots - 2 pcs.;
• Anther clamps - 4 pcs;
• Hub nuts - 2 pcs;
• CV joint grease - 1 tube;
• Head for 30 (I took it with touch control using a crowbar) - 1 piece;
• Well, and a bunch of other tools (wrench, tweezers, chisel, hammer, vocabulary of obscenities, etc.)

Work plan

So, let's begin. We remove the cap from the wheel (those who don’t have it have less work), remove the hub nut cap. Unscrew the nut, I used a dowel, take a 30mm socket and loosen the hub nut. Then loosen the wheel bolts.

All this needs to be unscrewed

We jack up the car and remove the wheel, immediately put it under the car (just in case), and unscrew the hub nut.

Unscrewed

We unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (I unscrewed it with a balloon)

Those that are higher

We press the lever down using a crowbar, hold it in this position with your knee, and at this time we move the steering knuckle and pull the drive out of the hub (after turning the steering wheel to the left). Cutting off the old boot

Drive pulled

Well, then it’s time to remove the CV joint from the shaft. I read that it can be removed by lightly tapping the inside. It wasn't like that. I remembered all my swear words, but it didn’t do any good. It was too late to go to the store for a puller, so I took out a welding tool and invented a puller. With his help, the CV joint was removed within five minutes. But I couldn’t do anything with a hammer in two hours.

Here's a simple helper

After that, we take gasoline and thoroughly wash the CV joint, at least to this condition

It’s clean, and most importantly, it can be easily tossed and turned in all directions.

Well, then we apply grease inside, put the boot on the shaft and put the CV joint in place. To do this, we screw on the old nut and, with a short but sharp blow of a hammer, drive it until the thrust washer. We put the boot on the CV joint and secure it on both sides with clamps. We put the drive in the hub and attach a new nut.

Collected.

Next, install the wheel, lower the car and tighten the hub nut with the same force as it was unscrewed. And don’t forget to seal it

Energized. I used a dull chisel for this.

We repeat the same procedure on the right wheel. That's basically it, the boots have been replaced, the car is running, I now have a puller for CV joints and invaluable experience in removing them.

Tripod CV joint with needle bearings

A tripoid grenade design is often used as an internal hinge on modern cars:

In the body of such a hinge there is a three-beam fork, pressed onto the splines of the driven shaft. Three working rollers are attached to the ends of the fork, which can move along the guide grooves of the body when the unit is rotated or axially displaced.

To protect tripod joints from wear and metal scuffing, special synthetic compounds without solid additives are used.

How to change the CV joint on a VAZ 2114

Replacing CV joints on VAZ 2115, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2113

In front-wheel drive cars, one of the most problematic areas is the constant velocity joints. Abbreviated as CV joint or "grenade". The CV joint is a kind of ball bearing; its races have transverse grooves, which allows you to change the angle between the drive and driven axle shafts. All elements of the CV joint are made of ultra-strong alloys, the wear of which occurs extremely slowly, but, as practice shows, signs of a CV joint malfunction can appear even in a car that has recently left the assembly line of a car plant.

On cars of the VAZ family, it often becomes unusable after
55,000 km .

Causes and symptoms of CV joint failure on a VAZ 2115

The most common reasons:

• low quality CV joints, installation of fakes or defective spare parts;
• lack or poor quality of lubricants;
• damage to the boot and entry of abrasive debris or water into the mechanism;
• aggressive driving style and disgusting condition of the road surface.

One of the signs of replacing a VAZ 2114 CV joint is the appearance of a characteristic “crunch” . This sound can only be produced by balls that roll along grooves, because... have too much output. Working in close contact under constant load inevitably leads to changes in the properties of rubbing parts, their sizes, and the formation of wear.

Where there is no close contact of these elements and extraneous noise appears. The sound can appear at any time, but usually it occurs when turning, sharp acceleration, or overcoming obstacles. There are other signs indicating a hinge failure :

• slight jerks when starting the car or changing dynamics;
• play of the shaft located between the CV joints when trying to move it in different planes.

DIY car repair and maintenance

Step-by-step plan for replacing CV joints (grenade)

So, the grenade (both internal and external) on front-wheel drive models of domestic “cars” (God forgive me) starting from the VAZ 2108 and ending with at least 2115 is the same (well, maybe from different manufacturers and different service life of the final ). The same principle applies to Priora, Kalina and Grant.

Greetings, dear visitors! I want to devote this article to replacing the external grenade. If you follow the sometimes unclear terminology (which I don’t always like) - replacing the constant velocity joint, i.e. CV joint. I try to write my articles in everyday language, in which people ask for information.

The photo above shows a damaged Lada 2114, already repaired. The front right side, which we are repairing, was collected in a heap by a frontal impact along with the entire front end (look at the gaps between the parts after the repair, in my opinion, the repair was done perfectly). Looking under the front right wheel I noticed that the drive was bent. I jacked up the car slightly (after making sure the car wouldn't roll), loosened the wheel bolts and immediately removed the cap and loosened the CV joint nut.

If you don't loosen it while the wheel is on the ground, it will be very difficult to unscrew it later. After which, I jacked up the car completely and removed the wheel and unscrewed the grenade nut. There is a washer under the nut (don't lose it, as the new CV joint doesn't come with one).

Next, you need to unscrew the ball. This can be done by unscrewing two 13mm bolts, or you can unscrew the bottom nut of the pin by 17mm and knock it down by pressing it down with a pry bar, while simultaneously tapping it with a hammer (not on the pin or ball), which is what I actually did. Additionally, release the brake caliper hose. This action is shown in two photographs below.

By moving the hub to the side (having previously pushed the grenade inward with the mounting tool and pulling the hub towards us), we release the outer grenade, which we would simply replace without pulling out the entire drive along with the inner CV joint,

...if it weren't for the drive that was bent into a ram's horn. And you see the fate of the outer grenade in the photo - it crumbled.

So, let's replace the drive too. The photo below shows a CV joint from an Italian manufacturer called TRIALLI (Trialli) for 900 rubles. Quite a cheap product of very good quality.

And the photo below illustrates the components of the CV joint:

1. The grenade itself.
2. Two clamps.
3. Protective cover (boot).
4. Retaining ring.
5. A tube of special lubricant (calculated for the entire service life of the hinge, if the case remains intact all this time). There is another cheap but excellent CV joint - 4 for lubricating a grenade for 50 rubles in any auto store
6. Hinge nut.

Since we were changing the drive, we had to knock off the support washer from it and replace it with the new drive, which should fit clearly into the lower groove (photo below). In theory, they should be installed on the new drive anyway. After that, put on the boot and lower it into its seat.

And install the retaining ring. If it is too stretched, first squeeze it and place it in the upper groove. The easiest way to do this is with cone-shaped pliers, inserting them inside the ring and stretching the ring to fit it into the groove. And then, using a special wrench or simple pliers, tighten the lower clamp, but do not tear it off.

Next, you need to inspect the inside of the hinge for any flaws or debris. Then fill it with lubricant. Insert the neck of the tube into the separator, press it firmly and press the lubricant until it comes out through all the cracks. Usually almost the entire tube fits there.

After this, you need to plant the grenade, forcing it to slip down through the locking ring. And for this, you can use an ordinary piece of wood (so as not to damage the thread) and a hammer (see photo below). A light tap on the board will do the job.

Squeeze the remaining lubricant into the boot and put the cover on the CV joint. But, before tightening the clamp, pry the edge of the boot with a screwdriver and release the air from it.

After that, you can install the clamp (strictly in the groove), tighten it as much as possible by hand and engage the teeth, and then tighten it with pliers.

In this case, we took out the drive, and to avoid oil leaking out of the box, we prepared the old inner CV joint in advance (you can also hammer in a wooden plug covered with a clean rag) and after removing the drive together with the grenade, we immediately inserted the old joint. We worked together, so we made it, losing only a few grams of oil.

And just like that, having taken out the “plug”, we quickly inserted the drive into place, straightened it on the grenades and, with a moderate blow, seated the inner CV joint.

After which, you need to insert the outer grenade into the splines in the hub (exactly along the splines, without damaging them), straighten the grenade relative to the drive and push the hub inward.

How to remove the drive

In order to remove the drive assembly, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Completely unscrew the nut on the outer joint to free the hub.
2. Remove the nuts from the bolts that secure the strut to the hub steering knuckle. This will allow you to move the hub to free the joint. But it will be much more efficient not to unscrew the nuts on the strut, but to disconnect the ball joint.
3. If you unscrewed the ball joint, you need to remove the tie rod end pin from the hole in the strut knuckle. This is done using a special puller.
4. Now you need to pull the outer joint out of the hole in the hub. How to do this depends on the situation. You can use a thin drift, but without fanaticism, so as not to damage the mechanisms. You should also not hit the CV joint axle with a hammer - this will cause the edges to flatten and make it impossible to remove the element.
5. After you pull out the outer joint, you can proceed to the inner one - to remove it from the hole in the gearbox, just apply a few light blows with a small chisel. You can also use a mounting spatula.

That's all, now the drive has been completely removed, you also need to learn how to remove the CV joint on a VAZ-2109.

Repair tool

To independently remove CV joints on a nine or any other car, you need to have the following tool on hand:

1. A socket wrench for “30” or a socket with a strong wrench.
2. Hammer and chisel.
3. Balloon wrench.
4. Set of spanners and sockets.
5. Penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
6. Capacity of at least 5 liters.
7. Marker or metal scriber.
8. Jack, support and wheel chocks.

You may also need a grinder, drill, drill bits, and other attributes. The work can be complicated if the drives have never been removed - the threaded connections become dirty, which complicates disassembly.

Estimated cost

Russian car owners can buy a CV joint on a VAZ 2109 for about 400-1500 rubles.

Estimated cost of different types of grenades:

• External - about 900 rubles .
• Internal – about 1400 rubles .

Approximate prices for products from different companies:

• AvtoVAZ - from 1200 rubles .
• GKN – from 1400 rubles .
• Hofer – from 850 rubles .

An old spare part in good condition can be purchased for 400-700 rubles .

Causes and breakdowns

In reality, the resource of the CV joint turns out to be significantly less, which is caused by operating conditions, poor quality of roads, driving habits and other factors.

People usually call a CV joint a “grenade,” which is due to the external similarity of the element to this explosive device.

Here's what you should know about grenade malfunctions:

• Practice shows that the most common cause of CV joint failure is dirt, dust, and sand that enter the mechanism through a damaged boot;
• Sometimes the problem of a non-functioning grenade can be solved by replacing the boot. This is possible if the CV joint itself has not yet worn out due to exposure to contamination;
• If the damaged boot is not detected in time, the grenade will be completely worn out within literally 200 kilometers;
• If the CV joint fails, a strong crunching sound appears when cornering and accelerating. Such a symptom indicates the need to urgently replace the CV joint;
• The cost of new grenades is quite affordable; they are available at any auto parts store. But you should purchase those that meet the technical requirements of the VAZ 2109;
• If you have at least a little experience in repairing cars yourself, it is quite possible to replace a grenade with your own hands.

Old and new element

Signs of CV joint malfunctions

Most often, the outer CV joint of the VAZ-2109 is replaced, since its resource is approximately three times less than that of the internal one. But the repair algorithm is generally similar.

Even to install new boots, you will need to completely dismantle the drive - it’s much more convenient to work this way. To determine if grenades are damaged, you need to do the following:

1. Turn the steering wheel to the left all the way.
2. Drive away and listen for any extraneous sounds.
3. Turn the steering wheel to the right all the way, then drive off again and listen to the sounds.

If a characteristic crunch appears, you need to change the grenade. It is useless to repair it - these elements cannot be restored. If both CV joints are faulty - internal and external, then it will be easier to install a new drive assembly. At least there won't be any problems knocking down old grenades.