Adjusting the wheel alignment angles of VAZ / Bogdan / 2110 / 2111 / 2112

Do-it-yourself wheel alignment on a VAZ 2112. Taxi Bolt

You can adjust the wheel alignment angles of your car with your own hands, using available tools and ordinary tools. In this material we will tell you how to do wheel alignment without the help of others at home, and what difficulties are encountered in most cases when adjusting wheel alignment angles.

Incorrect wheel alignment adjustment may be a prerequisite, for example, for rapid wear of tires, or for the fact that when driving in a straight line the car will steer to the left or to the right. At the end of this article you will find a video that carefully explains and shows everything you need to know about wheel alignment.

First, let's look at the theory: wheel alignment. What is this? What are the wheel alignment angles and how does the car’s behavior on the road depend on them? Wheel alignment. What is this anyway?

Destruction. This is the angle between the vertical and the plane of the wheel. It ensures reliable contact of the tire with the road (see picture above). Convergence. This is the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. The stability of the car in corners and tire wear depend on it.

In rear-wheel drive vehicles, the wheels should be slightly pointed towards each other. this is called positive toe. When moving, they move apart and become parallel. For front-wheel drive. on the contrary, the toe should be negative (see diagram below).

Custer. this is the longitudinal inclination angle of the kingpin. This parameter very rarely needs to be adjusted, only on a newly assembled front suspension made from new parts, so we will NOT consider its adjustment.

Repairing the suspension or steering control (replacing the same shock absorbers or control joint) leads to a significant change in the mounting angles of the wheels. Everyday operation of the car also makes adjustments to these characteristics over time, so from time to time there is a need to adjust the wheel alignment.

It is ideal to adjust the wheel alignment twice a year, during seasonal tire changes. During this period of time, you will fall into a hole more than once or run over a curb, causing the chassis to become loose and the angles to change. Timely alignment adjustment will cost much less than a set of new tires.

In 1955, South American engineer Lee Hunter developed the first wheel alignment control panel. Sensors mounted on the wheels sent focused beams of light and accurately measured angles. That's why the shield was called optical. But already in 1969 it was connected to a computer, and in 1995, 3D technology was used for the first time to measure and adjust angles.

True, Russian car owners drove without any shields or computers. Using wrenches, calipers, a whine and a plumb line, they adjusted the camber and toe angles with their own hands. Note on how to adjust the wheel alignment yourself

Before you begin adjusting the camber and toe angles, you absolutely need to check the car's chassis. If repairs are needed, then doing a wheel alignment is stupid. Steering and suspension must be in perfect order.

Pay attention to three points on which the wheel alignment angles on a car very much depend: the serviceability of the chassis (more about diagnosing the car suspension) Tire pressure. Loading the car.

Before adjusting the wheel alignment, be sure to check the pressure in the tires and make sure that you have NOT accidentally left a couple of bags of potatoes or cement in the trunk :) As an example, we will describe how to do a wheel alignment with your own hands on a VAZ 2109 car.

Adjusting the camber angle of the wheels.

The camber angles are adjusted in the following order (We remind you that in our case the actions are described for a VAZ 2109 car):

Before adjusting the camber, the car must be parked on a level surface. We put two vertical marks along the diameter of the wheel rim with chalk. one on top, the other on bottom. We apply a cord with a plumb line to the wing, and along the marks with a ruler or caliper we measure the distance from the rim to the cord at the top mark, and then at the bottom.

The difference should be ± 3 mm. The rim may NOT be flawless, so it is better to roll the car, turn the wheel 90 °, and make 2 more vertical marks. Again we produce frozen.

Do the same on the second wheel and write down the result. Then turn the car 180° and again take measurements, write them down and compare them. Then remove the wheel and, using 2 19mm wrenches, loosen the two bolts securing the shock absorber strut bracket to the steering knuckle.

Move the steering knuckle with a wrench to 19 due to the eccentricity of the bolt head inward or outward to the required distance, thus achieving the desired camber angle. Tighten the bolts, put the wheel in place, lower the car and rock it a couple of times, pressing on the fender. Take measurements.

On rear-wheel drive cars, the camber angle should be within 1/3 mm, and on front-wheel drive cars, the usual range is 1 to 1 mm. Adjusting the wheel toe angle

To adjust the angle of convergence, it is most convenient to take measurements using a special telescopic ruler with a scale (look at the photo above). It is more convenient to work in a pit. The steering wheel should be in a straight-ahead position.

Before adjusting the toe, make one mark on the inside of the wheels with chalk on the left and right tires as close as possible to the rims. Having created a preparatory tension in the ruler, install it, resting its ends against the intended points so that its body does not touch the body parts and suspension. Shake the ruler a little, and on the moving scale combine “zero” with the fixed pointer.

Lock the scale. Carefully Roll the car forward so that the ruler together with the wheels moves backwards, but does not touch the suspension and body parts. Check the readings.

If on a VAZ 2109 the distance between the wheels at the rear is less than at the front, then the control rods need to be shortened, and if it is longer, then. lengthen

Using a 27 wrench, loosen the locknut on the control rods. Nuts with marks on the edges have a left-hand thread. Using a 24mm wrench, rotate the coupling to configure the length of the pull.

Don’t forget: Watch the horizontal position of the steering wheel spokes. Place the moving scale on the ruler to adjust the toe to “zero” and roll the car back. With readings from 1 to 1 mm, you can complete the adjustment of the toe angle.

Look in turn from the side of each front wheel to the alignment of each rear wheel. With the steering wheel spoke horizontal, you will simply see that there is either no displacement of both wheels to the left or to the right. If the displacement is noticeably obvious, then by unscrewing one rod and tightening the other by the same number of turns, correct the displacement.

READ What Benefits Removing the Catalyst from a Car

After adjusting the wheel alignment yourself, it’s worth thinking about which wheels to choose: stamped or cast? It is believed that cast wheels significantly reduce the load on the suspension, while stamped ones. more comfortable.

You can adjust the wheel alignment angles of your car with your own hands, using available tools and ordinary tools. In this material we will tell you how to do wheel alignment without the help of others at home, and what difficulties are encountered in most cases when adjusting wheel alignment angles.

Incorrect wheel alignment adjustment may be a prerequisite, for example, for rapid wear of tires, or for the fact that when driving in a straight line the car will steer to the left or to the right.

What should the installation angles be: negative and positive values?

Average value for a passenger car. either zero or slightly negative (i.e., the wheels should be slightly pointed outward with the bottom).

Possible setting to a positive value. from 0 to 4.5 degrees. In sports cars, a negative value of .5 to .5.5 degrees is used. This ensures the highest level of grip and increases cornering stability.

There are disadvantages to negative angles. So, when driving in a straight line, the inner edge of the tire will wear out faster, and instability is likely when accelerating and braking on a straight path. A good option is to set the indicator at 0.5 degrees.

Positive and negative destruction.

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Wheel alignment. what it is?

First, let's look at the theory: wheel alignment. What is this? What are the wheel alignment angles, and how does the car’s behavior on the road depend on them?

Destruction. This is the angle between the vertical and the plane of the wheel. It ensures reliable contact of the tire with the road (see picture above).

Convergence. This is the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. The stability of the car in corners and tire wear depend on it.

  • In rear-wheel drive vehicles, the wheels should be slightly pointed towards each other. this is called positive toe. When moving, they move apart and become parallel.
  • In front-wheel drive. on the contrary, the toe should be negative (see diagram below).

Custer. this is the longitudinal inclination angle of the kingpin. This parameter very rarely needs to be adjusted, only on a newly assembled front suspension made from new parts, so we will NOT consider its adjustment.

Repairing the suspension or steering control (replacing the same shock absorbers or control joint) leads to a significant change in the mounting angles of the wheels. Everyday operation of the car also makes adjustments to these characteristics over time, so from time to time there is a need to adjust the wheel alignment.

It is ideal to adjust the wheel alignment twice a year, during seasonal tire changes. During this period of time, you will fall into a hole more than once or run over a curb, causing the chassis to become loose and the angles to change. Timely alignment adjustment will cost much less than a set of new tires.

In 1955, South American engineer Lee Hunter developed the first wheel alignment control panel. Sensors mounted on the wheels sent focused beams of light and accurately measured angles. That's why the shield was called optical. But already in 1969 it was connected to a computer, and in 1995, 3D technology was used for the first time to measure and adjust angles.

True, Russian car owners drove without any shields or computers. Using wrenches, calipers, a whine and a plumb line, they adjusted the camber and toe angles with their own hands.

How do front wheel alignment angles affect handling?

To clearly demonstrate the influence of steering wheel alignment angles on vehicle behavior, practical tests were carried out on a VAZ-2114 car. The car is new, after pre-sale preparation. A trip with standard adjustments revealed a “light” steering wheel and “wobbly” responses to its operation. The check showed that all angles, with the exception of the castor, were within factory tolerances.

Option one: negative castor

The longitudinal inclination angle of the struts was set as negative as possible. The front wheels are shifted back as much as possible. This can be observed on old “worn out” cars, or on cars with a strongly raised rear end.

After adjustment, the test “Samara” began to clearly respond to the slightest movements of the steering wheel, the steering wheel became very “light”, but the car began to show a tendency to yaw, the behavior became unstable, and control began to require maximum concentration from the driver. When turning, it is necessary to constantly steer; it is almost impossible to perform a “rearrangement” at high speed.

Option two: correct settings

The castor is set to normal-positive, the camber and toe are set to “zero”. The character of the VAZ-2114 has changed dramatically: the steering wheel has become elastic and informative, and more effort is required to rotate it. The car maintains its trajectory when moving in a straight line, its behavior on the road has become predictable and correct.

Option three: overly positive castor

The longitudinal inclination of the racks is set to the maximum positive angle. Since it is dangerous to set such an angle without toe correction, the toe angle is also set to “plus”. At first glance, in comparison with the previous version, the changes are not strong: the steering wheel has become lighter, the body has begun to sway a little more in turns, the car has become “lazier” in responding to steering inputs. However, in fast corners, the front axle begins to drift, and the speed at which it is possible to safely perform a “change” decreases.

Option four: sports

The castor remains positive, all other angles are set to negative values. As a result, the steering wheel has become significantly “heavier”, while the control is clear. The car turns and turns at significantly higher speeds than with all previous settings.

Instructions for adjusting wheel alignment yourself

Before you begin adjusting the camber and toe angles, you absolutely need to check the car's chassis. If repairs are needed, then doing a wheel alignment is stupid. Steering and suspension must be in perfect order.

Pay attention to three points on which the wheel alignment angles on a car very much depend:

  • Serviceability of the chassis (more information about car suspension diagnostics)
  • Tire pressure;
  • Loading the machine.

Before adjusting the wheel alignment, be sure to check the pressure in the tires and make sure that you have NOT accidentally left a couple of bags of potatoes or cement in the trunk

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