Replacing the clutch master cylinder VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

The clutch is one of the most important parts of a car; if the clutch fails, it becomes almost impossible to use the car.

Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2106

A few general points: on all classic VAZ models the clutch is hydraulic, that is, it consists of two cylinders, the main and the working. The master cylinder is installed on top; through the action of the clutch pedal on it, it creates excess pressure, which forces the slave cylinder to move. The slave cylinder is the cylinder in the clutch system that directly moves the clutch fork, is mounted underneath and contains the clutch bleeder.

It is also important to know that from 2101 to 2107 all clutch parts are identical and interchangeable. The working fluid in the clutch system is regular brake fluid.

The device of the working cylinder in a VAZ

In classic VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 models, the clutch consists of two cylinders - the main and the working. Essentially, they do the same job. The clutch slave cylinder in the VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 is located near the vehicle’s gearbox - in these models there are no significant differences in the structure of the part. It is secured to the box body with several bolts. The location of the part in these VAZ models is designed in such a way that it can only be seen from below the car.

When you press the clutch pedal, a piston moves inside the master cylinder, causing the brake fluid to be pushed out. After this, the brake fluid passes through the entire cylinder and, under the influence of the created pressure, exerts work on the same piston, which in turn presses on the fork in the cylinder. Both clutch cylinders of the car are dependent on the presence of brake fluid.

Therefore, it is very important to check the presence of this fluid in the tank, which is located under the hood of the car, and not allow it to drop to a critical level.

It often happens that liquid leaks. This happens due to wear of parts or due to the use of brake fluid that is not intended for VAZ cars. For VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 models, the DOT-3 brand is used. The use of another type has a bad effect not only on the clutch slave cylinder, but also on the main one.

There are also cases when the master cylinder may also be the result of a clutch failure in a VAZ car - such a failure is very easy to notice. It is enough to open the hood of the car and look at the reservoir into which the brake fluid is poured. There will be noticeable drips at the junction of it with the cylinder. In this case, you need to tighten the bolts. If the fluid continues to leak, then it is necessary to use a repair kit or replace the part completely.

Monitoring the brake fluid

One of the main signs of failure of the clutch slave cylinder in VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 cars is partial or complete failure of the pedal inside the car when pressed. This indicates a lack of tightness in the system - gradually the amount of brake fluid decreases, and the harder and more often you press the pedal, the more fluid will leave at a time.

This will cause the clutch to stop working and changing gears will be difficult or impossible. If you do not monitor the level of brake fluid in the reservoir and do not eliminate leaks in a timely manner, then consequences may arise - the clutch basket and release bearing will fail, not to mention the creation of emergency situations.

To eliminate the cause of the breakdown or completely replace the working cylinder, depending on the nature of the breakdown, you will need a new working cylinder, brake fluid and a standard set of tools. It is best to replace the working cylinder in a VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 car from an inspection hole or on a lift. Before starting work, it is necessary to drain the brake fluid that is in the clutch system. Having all the necessary tools at hand, the procedure for removing the cylinder is very easy.

The first step is to pull out the pusher clamp, then remove the tension spring. Next, slowly unscrew the nut on the hose with the liquid, after placing a container to collect it. Then proceed to unscrew the cylinder mounting bolts, after first pulling out the pusher with the clutch fork. Move the fork with the pusher so that it does not interfere with you. Between the working cylinder and the rubber hose there is a rubber gasket with a sealing washer. It is very important not to lose it, because it is not included in the repair kit.

Replace the clutch slave cylinder and proceed with reassembly in reverse order. If necessary, you can adjust the depth of pedal pressing on the cylinder fitting. After completing all the work, fill the brake fluid into the clutch reservoir. Filling will help to completely flush the entire hydraulic clutch system of a VAZ car. Bleeding is performed to clear your system of air that is in the brake fluid.

HOW TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER ON A LADA 2107 WITHOUT THE HELP OF SPECIALISTS?

Nobody wants to experience discomfort while driving, especially if it is associated with problems in driving. Owners of domestic “classics” have to devote more time and effort to the condition of their car, because they are used to doing everything with their own hands. We can say with complete confidence that if the car owner has already mastered the process of adjusting the wheel alignment, then he can also repair the hydraulic drive of the transmission clutch, just study the technology.

GENERAL INFORMATION

In order for the replacement of the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder to be justified, it is good to know its purpose and the first signs of a malfunction.
The torque transmission system on classic VAZ models is driven by a hydraulic drive, the main task of which is to transmit force when pressing the clutch control pedal. In turn, the hydraulic drive consists of two cylinders: the main and the working. When the pedal is applied, pressure is created in the main center, as a result of which the brake fluid is pumped through the valve into the working cylinder (WC). The latter activates the rod, which squeezes the fork, thereby selecting gears.

Traditionally, the control center is located on the gearbox housing and secured with two bolts, so it can only be reached from under the bottom of the car. The operation of both cylinders depends on the presence of brake fluid, so you need to monitor its level, especially since this is not difficult to do - the container is located in the engine compartment.

WHEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE A DAMAGED CLUTCH WORKING CYLINDER ON A VAZ 2107: SIGNS AND REASONS

In most cases, clutch control problems are associated with loss of tightness, when the pedal loses its elasticity when pressed. However, this fact is not so bad, but the inability to engage the gear is already serious.

If we put together the signs indicating the need to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107, we get the list:

  1. A drop in the level of brake fluid in the reservoir, which indicates a loss of tightness of the hose or brake fluid. The breakdown is also determined by the spots under the car.
  2. Periodic “failures” of the pedal or its soft movement indicate air entering the system. Failure may be the result of a worn cuff or cracks in the working cylinder body.
  3. A gradual loss of pedal stiffness and difficult gear shifting indicate a broken RC spring. In this case, the fluid level remains unchanged, and adjusting the pedal does not produce any results.

Liquid leakage from the master cylinder is signaled by similar signs, so during inspection you need to pay attention to its condition.

HOW TO CHANGE THE WORKING CYLINDER OF A LADA BY YOURSELF?

To work you will need the following set of tools:

  • Pliers.
  • Open-end wrench “17”.
  • Head "13".

It is more comfortable to carry out the repair process on an inspection pit or overpass. If this is not possible, the front part of the machine must be jacked up and placed on supports, having previously secured the rear wheels with shoes. Further work is carried out on the following transitions:

  • Loosen the nut of the hose tip in the RC plug using a 17-mm open-end wrench.
  • Using pliers, disconnect the tension spring.
  • Unbend and remove the cotter pin at the end of the pusher using pliers.
  • Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the gearbox housing.
  • Disconnect the bracket that was secured with bolts.
  • Having removed the pusher from the fork, take the RC in your hand and, using a 17mm wrench, completely unscrew the tip nut and remove the hose.
  • Replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107, and immediately tighten the hose tip to avoid loss of brake fluid.
  • Attach the new part in reverse order.

A certain part of car enthusiasts prefer to drain the old brake fluid before surgery, believing that this will allow them to get rid of dirt in the system. Be that as it may, you will have to bleed and adjust the clutch in any case.

HOW TO BLEED THE CLUTCH CONTROL SYSTEM?

For the quality of transmission operation, the absence of air in the system is important, which is why bleeding is done. The procedure is similar to bleeding the brakes. An assistant is needed to complete the work:

  1. Fill the reservoir on the master cylinder with brake fluid.
  2. Place a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter onto the fitting. Place the other end of the hose in a container with some liquid.
  3. Ask an assistant to press the pedal 5-6 times and hold it in the pressed position.
  4. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fitting half a turn and release air bubbles, then tighten the fitting and repeat the procedure until the air in the liquid completely disappears.

During work, it is important to monitor the fluid level in the tank and replenish it in a timely manner.

HOW TO REPAIR THE WORKING CYLINDER OF THE CLASSIC “SEVEN” CLUTCH?

In certain cases, car enthusiasts prefer to independently purchase not only a clutch repair kit, but also spare parts for cylinder restoration on their own. This option allows you to save some money if you follow the following points:

  1. Clamp the part in a vice and unscrew the plug at the back.
  2. Remove the rubber cap.
  3. Remove the retaining ring from the plug side.
  4. Extract the internal elements of a node.
  5. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bleeder fitting.

So that the replacement of a repaired clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 is

quality, you need:

  1. Inspect the condition of the spring and replace it if necessary.
  2. Replace all rubber seals.
  3. Inspect the node mirror.
  4. Clean the fitting.

Before assembly, all parts should be lubricated with brake fluid. You cannot use gasoline or diesel fuel, because the rubber will lose its quality. Change the gasket under the plug only if there are leaks. Having assembled and installed the unit, we finish the process by bleeding the system.

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We perform pumping correctly

Bleeding the clutch must be done immediately after replacing the working cylinder, as well as when the level of brake fluid in the reservoir is low. Work is carried out on bleeding in VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 cars through a fitting located on the working cylinder.

First, fill the brake fluid reservoir full. Find a partner for this job who will press the clutch pedal inside the car. Take the hose and put it on the fitting of the slave cylinder, then tell your partner to depress the clutch pedal several times. After this, let him press the pedal all the way and do not let go, at this time you should slightly loosen the nut on the fitting to release some liquid and air.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder on a VAZ-2104-2107

The main purpose of the clutch master cylinder is that it transmits force to the slave cylinder from the clutch pedal using working fluid. If the master cylinder is faulty, vehicle control will be impaired and it will be impossible to disconnect the transmission from the engine. How to determine if the clutch master cylinder is faulty:

  • Periodically check the level of working fluid in the tank. A sharp decrease in it will indicate a system malfunction;
  • check for leaks in the main and working cylinder housings;
  • failure of the clutch pedal, which occurs due to the entry and accumulation of air in the clutch system;
  • underpressure of the pedal and vibration of the gear shift lever.

Main types of faults:

  • there is a leak in the master cylinder;
  • cuff wear;
  • piston wear;
  • the inside of the case is damaged (chips, scratches, etc.);
  • For all classics of the Auto VAZ family, the clutch device is the same, including for 2107. The sequence of actions is the same.

There are two ways to eliminate a malfunction of the master cylinder - replacement with a new one and repair. What can be repaired:

  • replace rubber cuffs;
  • frame.

These actions do not always lead to the desired effect, especially on an old car with decent mileage. It is recommended to replace the master cylinder with a new one. Its cost is not high, approximately from 450 to 500 rubles. It's better to buy the original.

Working principle of the clutch cylinder

The clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107 receives the pressing force from the pedal and transmits it through the fluid to the piston of the working cylinder. If deviations occur in the normal operation of the master cylinder, it is necessary to identify and eliminate the malfunction factor by replacing the parts that have lost their functionality. Clutch cylinders are fully repairable; repairing them will require purchasing repair kits for the clutch master and slave cylinders.

Possible malfunctions and their diagnosis

Signs indicating malfunctions in the clutch drive can be diagnosed based on the following: - The level in the clutch reservoir has dropped significantly, this indicates that brake fluid is leaking somewhere in the system; if the connecting tubes are intact, then this may be caused by worn cuffs or piston failure in the master cylinder. — A visual inspection showed the presence of places where fluid was leaking: tubes, cuffs, etc. — When pressed, periodic failures of the pedal occur, this indicates that there is air in the clutch drive, this happens when hoses are cracked or when the level in the reservoir drops below the minimum. — When changing gears, a characteristic sound is heard in the gearbox, reminiscent of a “crunch”; the cause may be a malfunction of the piston or spring of the master cylinder.

Replacement

The cost of this type of work in a car service starts from 550 rubles. But for most car enthusiasts, this operation is not so difficult to perform on their own.

  • new GVC;
  • brake fluid;
  • set of wrenches with extension;
  • syringe or rubber bulb.
  1. Pump out the fluid from the hydraulic drive reservoir using a syringe or rubber bulb.
  2. Remove the expansion tank and move it to the side so that it does not interfere with work.
  3. Unscrew the tube with a 13mm wrench. Move it a little.
  4. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the tank to the cylinder.
    Unscrew the two nuts with a 13mm socket wrench and an extension.
  5. Remove the master cylinder from the studs.
  6. Replace the GCS with a new one.
  7. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Bleeding the clutch

The replacement has been made, but you should not hit the road without bleeding the clutch system. The process is similar to bleeding the brakes and is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Brake fluid is poured into the reservoir.
  2. A hose is put on the master cylinder fitting, the other end is lowered into a bottle filled with liquid. This will show how air leaves the system during the pumping process.
  3. The operation requires an assistant. One sits in the car and presses the clutch pedal 5-6 times on command, after which he leaves it pressed. The second one opens the fitting until the release of air stops. This is done several times until all air is removed from the clutch system.
  • Tighten the fitting and add fluid to the reservoir.
  • Conclusion

    After replacing the clutch master cylinder and bleeding the entire system, you can safely hit the road without fear that the clutch will fail and the car will lose control because of it.

Product location

The master cylinder on a VAZ 2107 is located under the hood, directly on the wall separating the interior from the hood, near the driver’s feet. Directly above it is the expansion tank, and next to it are the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder. Usually, simply looking at the product is enough to determine the problem. The presence of a leak indicates that the part is faulty and requires repair or replacement.

Purpose of the device

Cars are equipped with clutch master and slave cylinders, without which the operation of the mechanism is impossible. The VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder is designed to push out brake fluid. Below is a diagram from which you can visually find out the operating features of the unit.

When you press the clutch pedal, the piston moves in the device in question, thereby pushing out the brake fluid. This liquid enters the working cylinder through a tube, where the reverse process is observed (the liquid pushes out the piston). Brake fluid drives a piston, which is connected by a fork to the clutch disc. As a result, the clutch disc and flywheel are separated, allowing you to change gear. The GCS is also called the main one, since it is with its help that force is supplied from the pedal when it is pressed.

The need to replace the device: when required

Like all parts of any car, the GVC tends to wear out, resulting in the need for repair or replacement. The simplest breakdown of a product is wear of the boot, which can be determined by the characteristic signs of a fluid leak.

To identify a cylinder malfunction, an initial visual inspection is required. It is possible to repair a failed main circulation system on a VAZ 2107; for this you can look for repair kits, but this is not always rational due to the quality of modern spare parts, so it is easier and faster to replace it entirely. The malfunction can also be determined by the characteristic loss of pressure in the system, which is determined by pressing the pedal. Let’s take a closer look at how to change a faulty VAZ 2107 mechanism.

We change it ourselves

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder begins with the need to pump out the brake fluid from the hydraulic reservoir. This can be done using a syringe or a rubber bulb. Together with this socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bracket securing the expansion tank and move it to the side to gain access to the cylinder.

The next step involves removing the clutch expansion tank hose. To do this, you need to loosen the hose clamp, then disconnect the hose and position it so that it does not interfere with further work. If you want to remove the tank completely, this is done very simply.

Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

  1. Using a “10” wrench, you need to unscrew the pipeline securing nut to the device. Once the nut is unscrewed, the tube can be moved to the side.
  2. There is a hose nearby near the steel pipeline, which also needs to be disconnected from the main device. This can be done by loosening the fixing clamp.

  3. The GCS is fixed to the body using two fastening nuts. To unscrew them, you will need to use a wrench with an extension and a “13” socket. After unscrewing the two nuts, you can remove the product and drain the remaining brake fluid from it. If it is not possible to dismantle the unit, you can press the clutch pedal, as a result of which it will move.
  4. But repairs are usually not rational, so after removing the old one, a new unit is installed in its place. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the process of pumping the hydraulic drive, first pouring fuel fluid into the tank. You can find out how the system is pumped from the relevant material on the website.

Dismantling the hydraulic drive

To perform the operation we will need:

  1. container for operating fluid and a large-volume syringe.
  2. set of wrenches and sockets;
  3. screwdriver and pliers.

The order of work is as follows:

  1. Brake fluid is pumped out from the expansion tank of the master cylinder of a VAZ 2107 car using a syringe. A rubber tube is disconnected from the drive, from which the remains are also poured into the prepared container. If liquid gets on paint surfaces, they must be wiped with a damp cloth.
  2. Using an open-end wrench set to “10”, unscrew the fitting of the pipeline connecting the main and working hydraulic drives.
  3. Using a “13” socket and an extension adapter, unscrew the nuts holding the assembly to the engine compartment panel.
  4. To remove the master cylinder from the studs, simply press the clutch pedal, this will move it out of place, after which you can pull it out by hand.

The work on removing the unit is completed, and you can begin installing the spare part.

Communities › Auto club VAZ and Lada Classic. › Blog › How to replace the clutch master cylinder of a VAZ-2107

If you begin to notice that there are visible leaks from under the cuff on the side of the clutch pedal, and there is a wet mark under the hood at the place where the cylinder is attached, while there is a sharp decrease in the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and the clutch is not being released well, then it’s time to change the clutch master cylinder.

We buy a new clutch cylinder and find time for repairs - with good skill, you can do it in an hour.

So, we need to arm ourselves with: - An open-end wrench for 8 and 13 - A socket wrench for 13 with an extension - A flat and figured screwdriver - VD-40 or an analogue, a metal brush - A medical dropper or hose for pumping - A rubber bulb or syringe for pumping liquids - Clean jar for liquid

How to check the VAZ clutch cylinder, free play adjustment

In order not to do unnecessary work, it is better to spend half an hour and conduct independent diagnostics of the clutch drive. To do this, it is enough to place the car on a flat surface, it is advisable to have access to the gearbox housing from below (pit, overpass). Next, we check the operation of the system in this order:

  1. From inside, we check the free play of the clutch pedal. The nominal free play is from 0.4 to 2 mm. If adjustment is necessary, take a 10mm open-end wrench and loosen the lock nut of the limiter A in the photo below, setting the free play.
  2. We go down under the car and check the free play of the working cylinder pusher. Before doing this, it is advisable to apply WD-40 penetrating lubricant to it. To do this, press the pusher fork back with your fingers; the free play should be within 5 mm.

  3. To adjust the free stroke of the rod, use keys 13 and 17 to loosen the locknut.

  4. Using a 8mm wrench we hold the rod, and using a 17mm nut we achieve such a rod length that the free play is within 5mm.

  5. Tighten the locknut, go to the salon and check the free play of the pedal until the clutch disengages, which should be within 30 mm. If necessary, add brake fluid to the reservoir.

Removing and installing clutch slave and master cylinders

2104, 2105, 2107

repair

transmission

clutch

Dismantling and assembling clutch cylinders

Troubleshooting in the clutch drive of the Lada 2105, replacing oil seals in the main working cylinder, adjusting the clutch of the Lada 2107, bleeding the clutch of a car with your own hands VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107.

Dismantling and assembling clutch cylinders Clutch device VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104, do-it-yourself repair, transmission repair, clutch, troubleshooting and repair

Parts of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder: 1 - housing; 2 — lock washer; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - cap; 6 — retaining ring; 7 — pusher piston; 8 - sealing ring; 9 — piston of the main cylinder; 10 - spring

Main cylinder. Remove the protective rubber cap 5 of the cylinder body of the VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 and the retaining ring 6. This will allow you to remove the piston 7, the sealing ring 8, the floating piston 9 with the sealing ring and the piston return spring 10 from the housing. The cylinder mirror and the outer surface of the piston must not have any damage or hazards. The internal diameter of the master cylinder should be 19.05+0.025–0.015 mm. Check the condition of the piston return spring and replace it if it has lost elasticity. Replace the O-rings. Check the protective cap at the rear end of the cylinder and if the cap is damaged, replace it with a new one. Before assembly, carefully clean and rinse the parts with brake fluid. Do not allow mineral oil, gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel to come into contact with the parts, as these substances will cause the rubber seals to swell. After checking all the parts, assemble the clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104 in the reverse order of disassembly; Moreover, lubricate all parts of the cylinder with brake fluid or preservation fluid NG-213.

Parts of the clutch release cylinder of VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 (working cylinder): 1 - housing; 2 - fitting; 3 - cap; 4 - pusher; 5 - sealing ring; 6 - piston; 7 — sealing ring; 8 - plate; 9 - spring; 10 — washer; 11 — retaining ring

Working cylinder of VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107. Remove the protective rubber cap 3 together with the pusher 4, remove the piston and disassemble it, having first removed the retaining ring 11. After disassembly, carefully rinse and check all parts, as indicated for the master cylinder. Installation of a deformed pusher is not allowed. After checking, proceed with assembly (the reverse order of disassembly), lubricate the parts with hydraulic fluid for the Lada Classic.

Clutch VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

  • Clutch device

    Clutch device VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

    Clutch Release Adjustment

    Adjusting the clutch release of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

    Clutch cylinder repair and replacement

    In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the cylinder for repair. An exception in which it is necessary to replace the clutch cylinder with a new one is the deterioration (corrosion) of its inner surface that comes into contact with the piston during operation or the leakage of working fluid through a crack in the housing.

    Before dismantling the master cylinder, you will need to drain the fluid from the hydraulic system (expansion tank). It is convenient to use a rubber bulb. Loss of fluid during repairs cannot be avoided, so a reserve will be necessary. Moreover, according to the regulations, the fluid must be replaced after 2-3 years, regardless of the car’s mileage, and replacing it during repairs will not be superfluous.

    Next, you need to disconnect the fastening (clamp) of the expander and remove the fluid reservoir, unscrew the pipe mounting fitting and disconnect the hose from the clutch cylinder fitting. After this, unscrew the cylinder mounting nuts and remove it. If there is a need to inspect or repair the “seven” clutch cylinder, in other words, disassemble it, first you need to remove the rubber cap and remove the lock washer, then remove the sealing gasket with the fitting.

    After this, using a key, unscrew the plug, remove the second stopper, remove two pistons with cuffs and a spring from the cylinder body. If they become dirty, you need to rinse all components in the working fluid and carefully inspect them for damage or wear, not forgetting to pay attention to the spring, which will need to be replaced if it reduces its elasticity. It is also necessary to carefully check the condition of the inner mirror surface of the clutch master cylinder.

    Typically, if there are fluid leaks through the master cylinder seals, during its repair all “soft” elements must be replaced (they are all included in the repair kit). After an inspection or repair, the unit is reassembled in the reverse order, preventing solvents from coming into contact with the rubber elements, otherwise this could cause them to swell.

    The clutch slave cylinder serves to receive the pedal pressure converted by the master cylinder and transmit it to the release bearing via the clutch fork.

    Before dismantling the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder, the car must be installed on an inspection hole or use a lift, due to the location of this element on the clutch housing, which makes it difficult to access it without a hole. Before removing the cylinder, it is allowed not to remove the working fluid from the clutch reservoir. You can also avoid draining it from the hydraulic system even by disconnecting the tip of the clutch system hose. Of course, it will not be possible to completely avoid liquid leakage, but more on that a little later.

    To remove the slave cylinder, you need to unscrew its pusher, remove the clutch fork spring, slightly unscrew the pipe hose fitting, unscrew the bolts holding the cylinder and remove the rod from the fork. After this, unscrewing the removed cylinder, you need to disconnect the pipeline hose without losing the sealing washer, and immediately screw a new working cylinder onto it, if it was planned to replace it, or a plug with a gasket prepared in advance. In this way, leakage of working fluid can be minimized.

    To disassemble the working cylinder, you first need to pull off the protective rubber cap paired with the pusher, then remove the stopper and squeeze out the piston with sealing rings, plate and spring. Further, the procedure for inspecting and (or) replacing seals is similar to the actions performed when troubleshooting the clutch master cylinder.

    After installing a new or repaired working cylinder in place, it is necessary to add brake fluid to the conservator and remove air (bleed the clutch) from the hydraulic system. During bleeding, if necessary, the clutch fork pusher is adjusted.

    When choosing a similar new clutch cylinder for a “seven” in order to replace a failed one, you should be interested in the index marked on the cylinder. Another factor when searching for a spare part: a high price does not always mean the best quality of the product.

    Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2107

    The VAZ 2107 hydraulic clutch drive is the best option for rear-wheel drive vehicles. An important role in the hydraulic drive system is played by the clutch master cylinder (MCC).

    Purpose of the GVC

    The GCS converts the force of pressing the pedal into working fluid pressure (WF), which is transmitted through pipelines using the working cylinder piston (WCC) to the fork rod. As a result, the latter rotates on a hinged support and moves the pressure bearing, turning the clutch (MC) on or off. Thus, the GVC performs two functions:

    • converts pressing the clutch pedal into fluid pressure;
    • transmits pressure to the working cylinder.

    Operating principle of the GCS

    To create pressure in the hydraulic system you need:

    • working environment;
    • cylinder with piston;
    • the force that causes the piston to move.

    The VAZ 2107 MS drive uses brake fluid (ROSA DOT-4 is recommended), which practically does not compress and does not have a negative effect on rubber products.

    The piston moves through a rod connected to the clutch pedal. The pressure in the system is created by analogy with a medical syringe due to the fact that the piston and the hole through which the gas is ejected have different diameters. The system differs from a syringe in that the GCS provides for the forced return of the piston to its original position. In addition, the heating of the fluid and moving parts during operation is taken into account.

    The GCS works as follows. Working fluid through hole 19 is supplied from the tank into the working cavity 22 in front of the piston. When you press pedal 15, pusher 16 moves and, resting against piston 7, moves it forward. When the piston closes holes 3 and 19, the pressure of the liquid in front of it will begin to increase sharply and will be transmitted through the pipelines to the RCS piston. The latter will turn the fork through the pusher, and its front ends will move the clutch with the release bearing (VP) forward. The bearing will press on the friction spring of the pressure plate, which, moving towards the VP, will release the driven disk, and the clutch will disengage.

    When the pedal is released, the reverse process will begin. The pressure on the piston will disappear, and due to the return spring 23 it will begin to move to its original position. At the same time, the RCS piston and the fork return spring will also begin to move in the opposite direction and create pressure in front of it, which will be transmitted back to the RCS through the pipeline. As soon as it becomes greater than the force of the return spring of the GCS piston, it will stop. Through the bypass channel in piston 21, the inner surface of the floating sealing ring 20, which acts as a check valve, will be under pressure. The ring will flatten and block the bypass hole 3 in the cylinder body. As a result, a slight excess pressure will remain, which will remove all the play resulting from wear of the pushers, fork eyes and release bearing. As the temperature in the working chamber of the cylinder increases, all parts and working fluid will expand. The pressure in front of the piston will increase, and it will move back a little, opening compensation hole 3, through which excess liquid fluid will flow into the tank.

    This explanation is necessary in order to understand how important it is to monitor the serviceability and cleanliness of the GVC. If the compensation hole in the piston or housing becomes clogged, the temperature inside the cylinder will quickly rise, which will create excess pressure in the master cylinder. It can squeeze out the gaskets and fluid will begin to leak. The pedal will become stiff and the O-rings will wear out faster.

    Location of the GVC

    Since the pusher must be positioned horizontally and fit exactly into its piston, the GCS is mounted on the front partition of the engine compartment on the left side. It is impossible to install it any other way - it is screwed onto two studs welded to the partition. No additional conditions are required to dismantle it. Access to the fastening nuts, pipeline fittings and reservoir hoses is provided by simply lifting the hood lid. At the same time, the main brake cylinder should not be confused with the main brake cylinder (MBC), which is located nearby, a little further from the sidewall of the left wing. The GTS is larger and more complex; more tubes fit into it.

    Installing the clutch master cylinder repair kit

    It is not difficult to determine when it is necessary to repair the master cylinder; the main signs of its malfunction are:

    • Insufficient clutch release (clutch drives)
    • Any type of leakage, whether from under the nuts securing the hose and tubes, or from the end from under the rubber seals
    • Master cylinder stuck in pressed position

    In my situation, the main leak was due to a worn out sealing ring, in other words, fluid flowed down the clutch pedal into the passenger compartment.

    I started the repair by dismantling the reservoir hose, unscrewed the clamp on the main cylinder and quickly removed it from the main cylinder, turned it up and pinched it behind the reservoir cap so that the liquid did not flow out of the reservoir. Next, I unscrewed the tube that goes to the working cylinder, I did this with a special key, it’s a pity there is no photo, but you can buy one without any problems at any auto store. All that remains is to unscrew the main one itself, it is secured with two 13 nuts and remove it from under the hood.

    The boot was removed and it was noticeable that fluid was flowing from here.

    Having picked up the boot with a screwdriver, I saw exactly where the liquid was flowing from; the assumption was absolutely correct.

    Next, you need to wipe the cylinder, remove dirt and rust.

    Attention. Do not use gasoline or similar liquids for washing, as they will very quickly ruin the new rubber bands. To flush the clutch and brake elements, use clean brake fluid.

    After cleaning the dirt, you can begin disassembling. To do this you will need an awl or similar object.

    Next, you need to carefully remove the insides, keeping in mind that the piston is under the action of a spring.

    This is what it looks like

    Next, you need to clean the master cylinder body, you cannot scrape the parts with a screwdriver, sandpaper, etc., this is just in case, I use a rag with brake fluid. In repair manuals, I often came across such expressions that if rips, scratches, etc. appeared on the parts, then it is unusable. But despite all this, practice shows that despite all the risks, provided that a high-quality repair kit is installed, the master cylinder works without problems. I used this kit:

    Selection of GVC for VAZ 2107

    The best option for replacement is to purchase a GCS designed specifically for classic VAZ models. Clutch master cylinders from UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable. The same applies to foreign analogues - foreign cars with rear-wheel drive are equipped with GVCs, which only highly qualified specialists can adapt to the VAZ 2107 (different sizes, different threads for pipelines, different pipe configurations). However, you can easily replace the original cylinder with a GCS from a VAZ 2121 and from a Niva-Chevrolet.

    Manufacturer's choice

    When purchasing a new GVC, you should focus on products from trusted Russian manufacturers (AvtoVAZ JSC, Brik LLC, Kedr LLC), the Belarusian company Fenox, which is adapted to our conditions and is affordable. The average cost of GVC is 600–800 rubles.

    Table: comparative characteristics of GVCs from different manufacturers

    Manufacturer, countryTrademarkCost, rub.Reviews
    Russia, TolyattiAvtoVAZ625Original GVCs are made with high quality and are more expensive than analogues
    BelarusFenox510Original GVCs are inexpensive, made with high quality, and are popular among drivers
    Russia, MiassBrick Basalt490Improved design: the absence of a technological plug at the end of the cylinder and the presence of an anti-vacuum cuff increases the reliability of the product
    GermanyAND THOSE1740The originals are of the highest quality. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    GermanyHORT1680Original GCS are reliable and durable in operation. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    Russia, MiassCedar540The original GVCs do not cause any particular complaints

    Recently, there have been many counterfeits of well-known brands on the market. They can be distinguished by their low-quality workmanship and low price relative to their original analogues.

    Which clutch master cylinder is better to install on a VAZ 2107, articles and prices

    To completely replace the VAZ 2107 - VAZ 2101 clutch master cylinder, analogues from other cars are not suitable. Fortunately, there are more than enough original cylinders and analogues on sale. As a rule, the public tries to choose a branded VAZ cylinder with catalog number 2101-1602610 . Other manufacturers also use this article, but when purchasing, it is better to start not so much from the price of the cylinder, but from the level of trust in the brand. A branded master cylinder will cost us 8-9 dollars and this is one of the most expensive options.

    Next, you can choose from what is on the counter:

    1. The DK cylinder is half the price of the branded one, but often leaks due to poor-quality plug gaskets. As a temporary option, it will do.
    2. BAZALT , price about 200 hryvnia (about 7 dollars), Basalt and Phenox are highly not recommended due to the disgusting quality of mirror polishing.
    3. Excellent German Metelli , price approximately equal to the original one, factory article number 55-0014G .
    4. German ATE, HORT do not cause any complaints, the price is around 10 dollars.
    5. There are a lot of Chinese cylinders, like AT 2610-001H , the price is about 6 dollars, the quality is unstable.


    Instability in China

    Upon completion of the master cylinder repair work, fill in DOT4 brake fluid from any manufacturer and bleed the clutch drive in the same way as bleeding air from the brake system.

    Repair of clutch master cylinder VAZ 2107

    If problems arise with the GVC, it must be removed from the car, disassembled, defects eliminated, assembled and reinstalled. The work can be performed by any car owner with minimal plumbing skills. If you don’t have such skills, it’s easier to change the cylinder assembly. To repair and replace the GCS, you will need the following tools and materials:

    • a set of open-end and ring wrenches;
    • set of heads with ratchet;
    • long thin screwdriver;
    • round nose pliers;
    • 0.5 l of brake fluid ROSA DOT-4;
    • water repellent WD-40;
    • a small container for draining the fuel;
    • bleeding hose;
    • syringe 22–50 ml.

    Dismantling of the main central circulation system

    To dismantle the VAZ 2107 GCS, you will need to perform the following steps:

      Unfasten the expansion tank fastening belt and move it to the side.

    Disassembly of the main central circulation system

    Before disassembling, you need to clean the GCS from dirt, smudges, and dust. The disassembly itself is carried out as follows:

      Clamp the main valve in a vice, use a 22mm wrench to unscrew the plug and pull out the spring that returns the piston to its original position.

    Replacing rubber o-rings

    It is recommended to change the rubber O-rings each time the GCS is disassembled. To do this you need:

      Carefully pry up the O-ring with a screwdriver and pull it out of the groove.

    GCS assembly

    1. Rinse the cylinder mirror with fresh working fluid ROSA DOT-4.
    2. Lubricate the piston and sealing rings with the same liquid.

    Installation of GCS

    Installation of the GCS is carried out in the reverse direction of removal. Pay special attention to the correct installation of the pusher in the piston and uniform tightening of the fastening nuts.

    Bleeding the clutch

    After repairing or replacing the VAZ 2107 GCS, the clutch needs to be pumped. This will require an inspection hole or overpass.

    Selecting and filling working fluid

    ROSA DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid is used as the working fluid in the VAZ 2107 hydraulic clutch drive.

    RJ is poured into the GCS tank, located in the engine compartment on the front bulkhead. To correctly fill the system, before filling, you need to loosen the air bleeder fitting on the working cylinder by one or two turns and tighten it after the liquid begins to flow out without gas bubbles. The tank must be filled to the appropriate level.

    Bleeding the hydraulic clutch

    It is advisable to use two people to bleed the hydraulic drive - one presses the clutch pedal, the other unscrews and tightens the air bleeder fitting on the working cylinder, having previously put a hose on it. You will need to do the following:

    1. Press the pedal firmly several times and hold it pressed.
    2. Unscrew the fitting and drain the liquid along with the air.

    Continue the operation until all air has been removed from the clutch hydraulic drive.

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