When you need to install ESP (electric windows) yourself, then, as always, on the Internet it is difficult to find correct and understandable diagrams for everyone. Having experience in radio electronics, I am laying out for everyone the correct and understandable diagrams for connecting an ESP, an intelligent glass closer Pandora DWM-210 (but it is better to install a Sheriff PWM-200), as well as simple closers only for raising the glass, installed in the wire gap on the positive side of the motor.
The process of installing the ESP is described in detail by me here: www.drive2.ru/l/4651635/
We take ESP power buttons (NOT low-current trigger (multiplex) from Itelm), namely power ones: a block from Granta, and a new model button from Kalina (it’s the power one), since they are the cutest in appearance.
These are, of course, not dual-mode imported buttons, but they will work just as well with an intelligent door closer. We also install the Sheriff PWM-200 type door closer itself. Power buttons are easy to identify by their contacts - they have thick and flat blades, while trigger buttons have thin pins like needles!
We use thick power wires (shown in bold in the diagrams) >= 1 mm2, while control wires can be used thin = 0.5 mm2. Exception! If the buttons are not on the door, but on the center console and thick wires >= 1.5 mm2 are stretched from them to each door, then you can do without a relay, since there is no duplicate button here, and each one has its own door and the drawdowns are minimal. Then you don't have to read further.
Plus +12V must be taken from the fuse block, and not from the ignition, otherwise the automatic window closer will not work when arming. It is better to take the weight from the bolt behind the mounting block, and not in the door, since the contact in the door may not be very good. Although the door contact is also good if the car is not old. Take tinned terminals.
Connection diagram for power window lifter button "AVAR"
Diagrams for connecting the backup button on the driver's door to the main button on the passenger door
When installing two buttons on one window regulator, they are usually installed in series (or in parallel, but then they must be decoupled via a relay).
The main button is the button that controls the power window of the door on which it is installed. The duplicate button is the driver's button, which additionally controls another window regulator from the driver's seat.
Daisy chain connection (for low current trigger buttons)
We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door.
We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Attention!
Installation in parallel will cause short circuit when raising and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.
Parallel connection (for our power buttons)
Since with a serial connection you still can’t do without a relay, it is better to make a button duplication circuit in parallel, decoupling the main button from the backup button through two 5-pin relays: the wires from the main button next to the driver’s ESP motor go directly to the 88th contact of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger’s ESP engine.
A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button (the wires here are short), and we thereby eliminate unnecessary clicking of the relay when the main button on the passenger door operates. For non-power low-current (trigger) buttons, in this case you will definitely have to use 2 more extra relays to relieve the load on the passenger button (therefore, a serial connection is always used for trigger buttons). Further, everywhere in my circuits a parallel connection is used, since all the buttons are power
.
Connection diagram for multiplex (low-current) ESP button
ESP connection diagram when the multiplex button closes the contacts to ground
Dimensions of the installation location for the ESP “AVAR” buttons
Glass closer Pandora DWM-210
What it gives: - full glass travel in one short press (“one touch”) - BUT DOES NOT WORK ON 2 GLASSES AT THE SAME TIME (since the module has only one sensor for electromagnetic noise of the motor, current and time); — stopping the glass in any position by pressing again in any direction; — automatic stop of the glass when it encounters an obstacle in the window opening; — automatic shutdown of ESP motors when current is exceeded; — automatic closing of windows when arming the car; — automatic opening of the windows when disarming to the previous position before arming, if the parking lasted no more than 20 minutes. (The rev counter works rather conditionally and may leave the windows closed or not closed enough). The closer is installed in the driver's door.
ATTENTION! When you hold the button, the closer does not use its relays
, which take the plus (through a 20A fuse) and minus from the closer, but sends all the current directly from the button to the motor, so you need to install a relay after leaving the button with long wires!
Apparently this was done so that if the door closer fails, you can always close the window by simply holding the button. When you briefly press
the button, the door closer with its relays is activated and closes the glass.
Place the relay only at the input to the closer from the output after the duplicate button!
If this is not done, then due to subsidence along the long wires of the sequential connection of the buttons, the passenger window will barely move.
The output of the closer must be connected directly to the motor without a relay, otherwise the detection of electromagnetic noise from the motor will not work and the closer will not work!
At the output of the driver's power button, relays are not needed, since all the power wires there are short.
It is ideal to install 2 door closers on each door, as is standard on foreign cars - then the AUTO mode will be on 2 doors at once in parallel, and not alternately. In addition, you will not need to pull 2 extra thick wires to the motor from the driver's door to the passenger's door. If I had known right away that the Pandora DWM-210 is such a Ketai crap without its own relays in the power part of the closer, I would have purchased and installed a Sheriff PWM-200
, in which the power part is clearly separated from the control part and, moreover, you can close two windows at the same time in one touch! So it's definitely better!
Connecting power windows VAZ-2109
Owners of a VAZ 2109 car can replace power windows with electric windows. On 2109 cars, electric windows can be connected via standard wiring, which already has everything provided for connecting an ESP.
This circuit is used to connect ESP on more “rich” configurations of the nine and it is advisable to use it when connecting independently. Below are diagrams for connecting an ESP with fuse blocks of new and old models.
Wiring diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with an old-style mounting block (17.3722):
- 1 - Mounting block
- 2 - Ignition relay
- 3 — Ignition switch
- 4 — Right door electric window motor
- 5 — Left door electric window motor
- 6 - Right door power window switch
- 7 - Left door power window switch
- K7 - Power window power relay
- A - To terminal “30” of the generator
- B - To the wiring harness block connected to the heater lever illumination display
- B - to the heater lever illumination display
- G - conventional numbering of plugs in the gear motor block
The process of replacing standard VAZ 2109 power windows with electric ones
Before you start work, you should stock up on everything you need.
Tools and Supplies
- Set of lever ESP “Granat”.
- Set of socket heads.
- Set of open-end wrenches.
- Flat screwdriver.
- Phillips head screwdriver.
- CV joint lubrication 4.
Sequence of operations when installing ESP “Granat”
- the hood of the car is opened, both terminals are removed from the battery;
- use a flat screwdriver to remove the plastic trim of the front door;
The door trim is removed using a screwdriver
The nuts holding the glass in the window lifter mechanism are unscrewed
The lower guide nut is unscrewed with a socket head
The central nuts of the guide are unscrewed with a socket head
The top nut on the guide is unscrewed
Use a 8-mm socket to unscrew the nuts holding the window lifter handle.
The VAZ 2109 window lifter is removed through the hole in the door
ESP "Granat" is installed in the door of a VAZ 2109
The ESP is secured with two central studs
Voltage to the ESP motor is supplied from the VAZ 2109 battery
Using a 8-piece head, the glass is attached to the ESP mechanism
The rubbing surfaces of the ESP are lubricated with the composition CV joint-4
ESP activation buttons are installed in a niche near the cigarette lighter
The simplest diagram for connecting an ESP to a cigarette lighter
ESP diagram VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
- 1 – mounting block
- 2 – ignition switch
- 3 – right front door power window switch
- 4 – right rear door power window switch
- 5 – electric window motor reducer of the right front door
- 6 – electric window motor reducer of the right rear door
- 7 – electric window motor reducer of the left rear door
- 8 – electric window motor reducer of the left front door
- 9 – left rear door power window switch
- 10 – left front door power window switch
- 11 – relay for turning on electric windows
- A – to power supplies
- B – to the instrument lighting switch
- C – conventional numbering of plugs in power window blocks
The power window relay for this car is located in the mounting block. On the left under the panel in the fuse box on the additional connector.
Unit connection
When connecting the device, you must first turn off the power to the car. This can be done by disconnecting the battery or turning off the cigarette lighter and instrument panel lights. It is from here that the lifting mechanisms will be powered during the process.
Then you need to remove the door trim. It can be easily dismantled, but it is still better to stock up on fasteners. The entire analogue lift mechanism must be removed, after first fixing the glass so that it does not move. You need to take out almost everything except the glass mounting rail. We install the mechanical part of the electric lifting mechanism on it and lubricate the stroke groove.
The next installation stage is the installation of the electronic switch. After you have figured out the route for installing the wiring, starting from the location of the buttons and ending with the cigarette lighter contacts, from which the mechanism will be powered as a result, you can begin the process itself. But be careful: you won’t be able to simply pull the wiring from the doors to the counter. In some places you will need to use a probe, since the wiring needs to be released in places where special grooves are located. Also, the wiring should not touch either the doors or any parts of the ESP mechanism.
After everything is connected, the established connections need to be checked for functionality. An experienced installer does this every time he installs the mechanism and connects the circuit. The check should be performed several times, knocking a little on the door and on the panel.
The glass should move smoothly, without any jerking or getting stuck. If this still occurs, you can lubricate the seal around the glass with silicone or other hermetic lubricant. Such actions partially eliminate the movement problem. Afterwards, you can install the casing in place and enjoy the work done.
Window lifter diagram for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2115
Power windows for front doors for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2114 cars (usually power windows are installed only on front doors).
1 – mounting block; 2 – power window switch for the right front door; 3 – gear motor for the electric window of the right front door; 4 – motor reducer for the electric window lifter of the left front door; 5 – power window switch for the left front door; 6 – ignition switch; K5 – relay for turning on electric windows; A - to power supplies; B - to the external lighting switch.
Installation of window lifters on VAZ 2109 cars
Today we have an excellent opportunity to modify a slightly outdated classic of the automotive industry by installing electric window lifts on the VAZ 2109. Electric window lifts have long been installed for windows on almost all foreign-made cars. Even our latest domestic cars, albeit partially, are still equipped with electric windows. Their popularity is obvious:
- ease of use;
- reliability;
- aesthetic component;
- long service life;
- practicality.
Electric windows do not require any effort to adjust the glass; they are controlled by buttons, and the drive makes it possible to quickly raise and lower the glass. In order to adjust the height of the glass, no effort is required. Its movement is much faster than when using a mechanical lift handle.
Serial connection - diagram
We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door. We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Installation in parallel will result in short-circuiting during lifting and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.
When using trigger buttons, connect all ESP motors only through a relay. When using a conventional door closer, relays are also needed, since they are not in the long-press closer block and all the current flows through the buttons and wires from them.
Choice of window regulators
Electric joint ventures for the “nine”
When choosing electric windows on a VAZ 21099, 2109 or 2108 for front or rear windows, you must first decide on the type of device.
Today you can find many different joint ventures from different manufacturers on sale, but all of them, one way or another, belong to one of three types:
But if you look in general, the level of load in these three options is the same. However, cable structures, as practice shows, are among the most cost-effective and repairable. As for repairs, the need for it in fact does not appear so often - in the event of severe stretching or breakage of the cable. Since this option is considered the cheapest, it is the slowest, in addition, its use in the winter can lead to glass freezing (video author - Tver Garage).
As for the rack and pinion options, they are faster - you can open or raise the glass with the help of such a joint venture in 4 seconds. It should be noted that rack-and-pinion joints require periodic lubrication, like cable ones, they are sensitive to freezing of the glass itself. The last option - articulated-lever - is the most expensive and most functional - such lifts work quickly and quietly, they are reliable, and if the glass freezes, they will still perform their functions well.
As for the cost, it may vary depending on the country and region, but in general the prices are as follows:
- cable ones cost from 12 to 17 dollars;
- rack and pinion - about 40-45 dollars;
- articulated-lever ones - around $50.
Parallel connection - diagram
Wires from the main button next to the driver's ESP motor go directly to pin 88 of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger's ESP motor. A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button, thereby eliminating unnecessary relay clicking when the main button on the passenger door is operating.
Two schemes (simple and complex)
First of all, before connecting the alarm, you need to study the instructions included with it. The main unit always has relays installed: one of them closes when the locks are locked, the second acts on opening. The connector to which the relay contacts are connected usually has 6 pins. There is nothing complicated here.
In the first case, we will use only this connector. The second circuit uses another contact, called “signal output for 2-step lock opening”. Find it on the main unit.
We connect the alarm in a simple way
A push-button module is installed in the driver's door of the Lada Priora. The door trim must be removed and the connector for this module must be found:
We will need a brown cord from the connector. It is a signal, and the alarm relay is connected to its break:
Two wires connected to each side of the cut cord will have to be pulled to the main unit. The common contacts of the relay are connected to one of the wires.
All wiring in the considered circuit is signal, but this does not mean that the connection points need not be isolated. Wires should not touch metal parts of the car. If contact occurs, it is necessary to use additional protection: electrical tape, heat-resistant tube, etc.
The best option for connecting to the central locking system
Having made the connection, as discussed above, you can notice the following: all locks are activated from the key fob for closing, and only one, the driver’s, is activated for unlocking. This defect can be eliminated 100%, which will require 2 or 3 additional relays. First, let's look at where the connection points are:
The block that is visible in the photo is designated BUS-2170. It is equipped with three connectors, but we need one (three-row).
Find three wires in connector X1:
- Sixth (red-black). The cord goes to the actuators and is the power one.
- Thirteenth (green-black). Front right power window control cable.
- Eleventh. Same as “13”, but for the rear window lifter.
How to connect an alarm system to the central locking of a Priora Lux? Three wires are broken (all indicated), and the cables from the break points are pulled to the signaling unit. If you don't have rear power windows, the last cord will be missing. And if there are no power windows at all, cables 3 and 2 do not break (they are still missing).
The BUS unit will be installed behind the dashboard, near the gas pedal. To remove it, dismantle the side panels and unscrew two 10mm nuts. These nuts secure the block on both sides. From each of the break points, a cable is laid to the signaling system, which also applies to the brown cord coming from the door block:
Here we use additional relays (K1-K3), a 15 Ampere fuse and nothing more.
Scheme for any number of buttons and doors
Here you can place any number of buttons in parallel and simultaneously press them in different directions - a short circuit is impossible from the circuit design. In a situation where we press the up button on the main button, and the down button on the backup button, it will simply stop, since both power lines will have the same potential. The advantage of the circuit is that the power switching is in one place, there are no losses in the harnesses and on the buttons, there is a minimum of “pulling” of wires - 2 in total per channel + ground.
Main characteristics
Car electric window
The VAZ 21099 “Berkut” window regulator is equipped with a metal mechanism with articulated levers. This design allows you to raise the windows both on the VAZ 21099 and on other domestic and European brands of cars. It should be noted that such a mechanism is equipped with a modern geared motor PT-060. Its assembly is carried out in Izhevsk using new Swiss technology. These electric windows are equipped with:
- wiring numbered according to the electrical diagram;
- switch buttons;
- decorative plugs;
- additional fasteners;
- rubber transition cuffs.
Auto mechanics know very well how to connect power windows on a VAZ 21099. If such work is done with your own hands, then it is recommended to use the electrical diagram with explanations offered by the manufacturer. Some manufacturers provide installation diagrams in the form of a technological drawing for quick assembly. To install such a window lifting mechanism on a VAZ 21099, it will take 2-2.5 hours for 1 door. This procedure is carried out using:
- screwdrivers, Phillips and slotted;
- wire cutter;
- pliers;
- keys for “8” and “10”;
- knife;
- broaches
Of the consumables, before connecting the power windows on the VAZ 21099, you will need to prepare:
- electrical tape;
- silicone grease;
- copper wire;
- scotch.
Glass closer Pandora DWM
Connection diagram for the passenger door button in series through a duplicate button on the driver's door. Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are always normally closed. When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down). The 30th contact of a 5-pin relay, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, is constantly shorted to contact 88, which gives us the necessary negative contact (works like a switch). If voltage is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 88 and connected to contact 87. Contact 86 of the winding is connected to ground.
Re-equipment of the "nine"
If you were driving a car that had electric windows installed, and even more so if you spent a long time behind the wheel, then in the future it will be difficult for you to do without electric windows. You get used to good things quickly, and to good and comfortable things even faster. But since the ninth model Lada car does not initially provide for the installation of electric windows, and every self-respecting owner of an always up-to-date “nine” wants to get such control, especially for this case it will be described here how you can independently equip your swallow with electric windows.
Installing them using a circuit diagram is not that difficult because the connection is made in the same way as connecting any other electronic device in the car's circuit. Replacing a window regulator on a VAZ 2109 is not such a difficult matter. It is all the more simplified by the fact that they are produced by domestic manufacturers specifically for domestic cars, which were not originally provided with such a function. Moreover, at the time when these cars were produced, no one dared to dream about power windows: times were harsh, and only representatives of the ruling elite could use luxury and technology.
The installation of electric windows on a VAZ 2109 can be done by anyone, regardless of the level of skill and knowledge of the installer. To successfully complete this task, you just need to have a rough idea of how the car is built from the inside and how its electrical network is equipped.
The power window connection diagram will help you do everything correctly.
Installation of electric windows on a VAZ
The procedure is performed in the following sequence:
- temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
- remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
- we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
- connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
- We install the glass in place and trim the door.
Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.
Installation of the lifting device is quite simple. It starts with disconnecting the battery. After this, use a curved screwdriver to unscrew 3 screws, unfasten the door trim latches and remove the door pocket. Using a thin screwdriver, pry off the handle (latch) of the window lifter - the tip of the tool is inserted into the recess between the latch and the socket.
How to replace the window regulator on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?
Removal: 1) First, remove the trim from the car door on which you are going to work. (You can find how to remove the trim in the article: “Replacing the door trim with a new one”)
2) Now remove the side glass from the car door, using the article on “Replacing glass on the side door of a car”.
3) Then, using an extension with a socket head, unscrew the two nuts that secure the middle part of the mechanism guide.
4) Next, unscrew another nut of the lower fastening.
5) And then unscrew the upper fastening nut.
6) Now, using the same extension cord with a union head, completely unscrew the three nuts that secure the window lift mechanism itself.
7) And to complete the operation, remove the window regulator through the hole in the inside of the door.
Installation: 1) First install the new window regulator in its place. And after installation, tighten all the bolts and all the nuts that secure it.
Note! The window regulator mounting bolts and nuts include: 1. Three window regulator mounting nuts. 2. And also the nut for the upper fastening of the guide. 3. Lower fastening nut. 4. And two nuts for the middle fastening of the mechanism guide. 5. And the last bolts that secure the glass to the mechanism.
2) Once the window regulator is installed, proceed to the final installation of the glass and door trim in place.
Additional video materials: More detailed instructions for replacing the window regulator can be found in the video clip located just below:
Note! From the video clip you will learn: How to remove and install trim from a car door, and it will also include detailed removal and installation of glass, and in addition to all this, the window regulator itself will be replaced with a new one!
Types of electric windows and which ones are better for the VAZ 2109
ESPs come in various types.
- cable-type (weak and very slow, with the advantage of being cheap and being able to replace the motor separately if it suddenly burns out);
- rack and pinion (a bit weak, based on operating experience - require regular lubrication);
- articulated-lever (work quickly, make little noise, are quite powerful: they can easily cope with frozen glass).
We opt for the latter, called “Pomegranate”. Moreover, the kit of these ESPs includes everything necessary for installation - electrical wiring, buttons, plugs, all the necessary fasteners, rubber cuffs for pulling the wiring from the rack into the door.
There are also “Katran” and “Berkut”, they have a slightly different device and installation is a little more complicated, but according to reviews they are also not bad.
Window lifter options
According to their design, electric windows (ESP) are divided into three main types:
- rack and pinion window lifters. The devices are not very powerful, plus they require systematic lubrication. If this is not done, their service life is significantly reduced;
- Cable window lifters. Their main advantage is their low price. In addition, changing the motor on such a window lifter will not be difficult (since it is easy to find on sale). They are inferior in power to rack and pinion lifts, which is especially noticeable when the glass freezes to the door in winter;
- finally, the windows are lever operated. Among car enthusiasts they are considered the best option: powerful, fast and almost silent during operation. These are the ones that will be discussed below.
The most popular among lever ESPs are the “Granat” lifts. Their popularity is due to two factors: a fairly affordable price and good equipment. Along with the ESP, the driver receives wiring, fasteners, cuffs and plugs.
Lever window lifters "Granat"
Installation and connection diagram for VAZ 2109 window regulators: step-by-step instructions with photos
- Before starting work, you must turn off the power supply to the vehicle's on-board network from the battery. Or we separately turn off the power circuits for the cigarette lighter and the backlight of the instrument panel and buttons, because The power supply wiring for the power windows will be connected to these circuits in the future.
- Remove the door trim. It can be removed quite easily, but it is better to stock up on mounting pins.
- First of all, we dismantle the mechanism of the standard manual window lifter, fixing the glass (for example, using office tape) in a position that provides access to the place where it is attached to the lifting mechanism.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the door glass to the standard window lifter mechanism.
- We dismantle the guide of the standard window lifter mechanism (trapezium). Unscrew the bottom nut:
- Two nuts in the middle:
- Top nut:
- The guide is free, now all that remains is to unscrew the three nuts securing our window lifter in the area of the rotation handle.
- We take out the entire door window lifter mechanism. To do this, we bring the lower pin of the guide into the hole in the door (see photo).
- By pressing with a screwdriver, we remove the upper fastening of the guide.
- Done, the window lift mechanism is disconnected. We take it out of the door cavity.
- That's it, the standard mechanism has been dismantled, let's start installing a new one. The new mechanism is attached using standard fasteners; you don’t have to drill anything new. We place the window lifter mechanism into the inner cavity of the door through the largest technological hole in an “assembled” form (otherwise it won’t fit), as if in the “open” position of the glass.
- We fasten the mechanism inside the door using two studs, which we insert into two holes that previously held the middle part of the guide of the standard VAZ 2109 window lifter. We combine them and screw on the nuts.
- The next task is to combine the mounts on the window lift linkage system with the mount on the glass. This can be done by supplying power to the power window motor contacts from an external power source, for example, any working car battery.
- When the lift mechanism is combined with the strip on the glass, we connect them using the bolts from the kit.
- It is advisable to lubricate the rubbing parts thoroughly.
- The mechanical part is complete, let's move on to the electrical part.
- We estimate the route for wiring from the door from the electric motor of the window lift drive to the installation location of the buttons - activators. The standard place for buttons in the high panel of the VAZ 2109 is two plugs to the right of the cigarette lighter, and we install them there. The hardest part is running the wiring from the door into the rack and then out of the rack under the dash. For this purpose, there are technological holes in the rack. You may need to use a special probe. The wiring is done with a wire with a cross-section of at least 1 mm. sq. We lay the wires in such a way that they do not touch any moving parts of the door or the ESP mechanism itself. We will take power for the electric windows from the cigarette lighter. Electrical connections are made according to the following diagram:
When the circuit is assembled, it is necessary to connect the battery power and check the correct operation of our system. We turn on the side lights and check the correct operation of the backlight of the ESP activator keys. If the backlight does not work, swap the sockets on the contacts of the keys, indicated in the diagram as 3 and 6. You can install the window lifters in the standard way, here are two diagrams:
Connection diagram for electric windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722 (before 1998)
Connection diagram for electric windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60, 2114-3722010-10 and 2114-3722010-18 (new model)
You can read more about the types of mounting blocks for front-wheel drive VAZs here.
- We check the functionality of the window regulators. The glass should move smoothly, without jamming or jerking, and should not come out of the guides. To facilitate the movement of glass in the seal, it can be treated with silicone grease.
- All that remains is to reinstall the door trim.
- That's it, the installation of the window lifters is complete, let's enjoy the completed modification!
Installation instructions for electric window lifts on a VAZ 2109
So, before you start installing electric glass lifts on your nine, secure the door glass so that “failure” does not occur; this can be done with ordinary tape, and also do not forget about the need to disconnect the battery terminals. Now pull the window handle towards you and remove it.
For the next step you will need a flat screwdriver or a plastic puller, since we need to remove the door cards. I recommend that you take care in advance of spare pistons on which the cards are attached, since when cards are removed, the pistons often break. So, you need to go around the perimeter with a screwdriver or pullers and remove the card. Now you have access to your window lift mechanism.
The two bolts that connect the mechanism and the glass bracket must be unscrewed. Then unscrew the four nuts (to free the trapezoid) - in the lower, middle and upper parts of the door. Now you need to unscrew the nuts that are attached to the old handle of your window regulator, and pull out the old mechanism. To do this, lower it down and clear the mounting area for the handle itself and the guide.
Now you can take it out, there is a hole in the top of the door for this. You need to “fold” the new window regulator so that it takes up less space and place it in the door. There is no need to weld or drill anything, since everything returns to its old place; now we fasten the guide with two bolts in the middle of the door.
The next thing we do is lift the bar to the bracket on the glass and connect them with bolts. By the way, I advise you to connect the power window motor to the battery for this, rather than having to worry about it manually.
Connecting the power window wiring
Now let's look at the wiring. There is a special hole for it, which is plugged; it is located at the bottom of the door. The front panel will also need to be removed to power the window regulator. The buttons supplied in the kit fit perfectly into their standard places; they are located next to the cigarette lighter, on the side.
Of course, if your choice fell on some non-standard buttons, you will have to do some cutting. Power also comes from the cigarette lighter, as for the power supply for the backlight, here we use the dashboard backlight.
Having laid and connected the wiring, we begin to test the window regulator. Be prepared for the glass to go up instead of down. This also happens, the contacts in the button are simply mixed up. If nothing works at all, you need to swap the backlight and power wires. We fix the mechanism only after we know for sure that everything works. When installing the card, I recommend installing new caps, and as for the hole from the old handle, it can be plugged.
The question of whether a car should be equipped with electric windows (ESP) has long ceased to exist - ESPs greatly increase the comfort and safety of driving. In addition, the price of these devices, which have long since moved from the category of “luxury” to the category of “necessity,” is not at all burdensome for the personal budget. One of the most popular ESP brands on the Russian market is “BERKUT” - electric windows produced in Izhevsk, and they are intended for installation on all serial domestic passenger cars - VAZ, GAZ, IZH, Niva, as well as on minibuses and trucks "Gazelle", "Sobol" and "Barguzin".
Lada 2109 Ap-ak › Logbook › Lazy guy in the car. Installation of lever ESP on a VAZ 2109.
Good day!
For a long time I didn’t write anything in the BZ, but I’m constantly working on the car and taking photos accordingly :) This time I got my hands on the lever-type power windows, aka growl. ESP:) I bought them for 2 thousand. I didn’t buy them new, well, they’re new, but I bought them second-hand and 500 rubles cheaper. I found an advertisement on VK.
Equipment:
ESP 2 pcs;
Wiring harness; Buttons 2 pcs; Fasteners/bolts; Passport. I didn't expect such a rich package. I thought that there was only an ESP, without buttons and wiring. Therefore, I was pleasantly surprised :) The window regulators are Chinese, and don’t believe the sellers if they sell them on you as if they were domestic. Catalog number DSQ-111.
Let's start the installation. We open the door and see this picture:)
Now before installation I RECOMMEND
remove the rod of the inner handle; there is no need to remove it from the lock. All you have to do is unhook it from the handle itself and pull the rod out.
They are not installed specifically in this position. I cursed for a long time and couldn’t figure out how to install this crap in the door, or rather, I installed it, but when lifting, the glass warped very much and snapped. Later I figured it out, the problem turned out to be that one bolt securing the mechanism was missing.
Next we stretch the wires into the door by removing the white block.
We drag the binding wire into the door jamb, hook it onto one terminal at a time, wind up this connection of the wire with the electrical terminal, so as not to catch anything unnecessary, and pull it from the other side. We connect and check. I don’t have any photographs or an explanation of what and how I connected it. There is nothing complicated there, the wiring block is already assembled from the factory :) You just need to supply power to the contacts. Plus you can take it from the cigarette lighter. I don’t recommend taking + from the ignition. I installed the buttons in their standard places, near the cigarette lighter.
By the way, the ESP should be installed with the glass fully raised!
This will save you from window distortions. It is also necessary to treat the guides along which the glass slides with silicone grease.
It won't hurt if you remove the velvet cloths and clean them. Just don’t repeat my mistake, don’t spray silicone grease on the marigolds!
We generously lubricate the mechanism with grease, lithol, etc. Don’t be afraid to overdo it; you won’t spoil the porridge with oil, as they say. I smeared this “Muck”
I drove for about a week with these ESPs and I’ll tell you, although they don’t raise the windows at the stated speed of 5 seconds, they do it much faster than cable ESPs! I'm happy with the conversion, I don't know how long they will last, I hope they will last forever! :)
I wish you to implement this modification in your car and good luck on the roads of life...
Source: www.drive2.com
Important points
- dismantling the standard ones and subsequent installation of new ESPs on the rear doors of the VAZ 2109 is carried out in the same way as indicated above (since the rear doors differ from the front ones only in the location of the standard window lifter handle: on the rear doors it is shifted 3 cm to the left);
- When removing the door trim using a screwdriver, you must be careful: the plastic plugs over the mounting bolts are very fragile. They break easily if you apply too much force by prying them with a screwdriver;
- The simplest ESP connection diagram given above is far from the only one. Car enthusiasts who are well versed in electrical engineering prefer more reliable and complex circuits that use mounting blocks. Here is an example of one such scheme:
Connection diagram for ESP with mounting blocks for cars produced before 1998
But it should be remembered that this ESP connection diagram can only be used on cars manufactured before 98.
for machines of a later release, a different scheme is used:
ESP connection diagram for VAZ 2109, produced after 1998
So, you can install an ESP on a VAZ 2109 yourself. In order to assemble a simple electrical circuit, no special electrical skills are required. Knowledge from a school physics course is quite enough. But at the stage of choosing window lifters you should be especially careful. It is strongly recommended to abandon both rack and pinion devices, even if their price seems incredibly attractive. Only lever window lifters should be installed, since they are the only guarantee that the glass will not freeze to the door on a frosty winter day.
