The VAZ 2107 engine gets hot, the carburetor causes and solutions
Modern car engines are able to automatically maintain temperature. But sometimes the instrument needle confidently climbs into the red zone and the engine “boils”, that is, it overheats. Why is this happening?
VAZ-2107 engine is overheated
The first reason, no matter how trivial, is the usual lack of coolant, which gradually evaporates. The problem can be solved simply, you need to refuel the cooling system. A lack of coolant can also occur due to its leakage in the connections or due to cracking of the hoses. As a rule, leaks can be detected by visually inspecting the engine. Broken hoses must be replaced, and loose connections must be tightened. In classic VAZ models, for example VAZ-2107, the radiator is connected to the expansion tank via a flexible tube. There have been cases when this tube gets clogged, as a result there is liquid in the tank, but not enough in the radiator. Therefore, do not be lazy to open the radiator cap once again and check for the presence of coolant.
The second reason for engine overheating may be a malfunctioning thermostat. If the thermostat breaks down, antifreeze does not enter the radiator, which causes overheating. The malfunction is easily determined. If the thermometer shows a coolant temperature of 90 degrees or higher, but the radiator remains cold, it means that the thermostat is faulty. The problem is resolved by replacing it. More details about the thermostat can be found here.
A third reason for overheating may be stagnation of fluid in the cooling system. This could be a faulty pump or a clogged system. A faulty pump should be replaced, and blockages should be removed by flushing the system with a special flushing fluid.
Another reason may be contamination of the radiator. Along with the incoming air flow, many foreign objects enter its cells: dust, insects, grass. This leads to the “greenhouse effect”. A layer of dirt covering the radiator disrupts the heat transfer process. Clean it periodically with a stiff brush and blow with compressed air.
The radiator is clogged with dirt
It is also worth paying attention to the temperature sensor. The signal from it goes to the car’s on-board computer or directly to the indicator. If the sensor is faulty, an incorrect signal from it can seriously interfere with the normal operation of the cooling system.
Source
What should be the operating temperature of the VAZ 2107 engine?
Comments 14
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Same question: My radiator is boiling at a level between the white and green zones. The two wires going to the temperature sensor installed on the radiator do not connect to each other when you connect them to each other... I don’t know what to do, what to do, who can tell me? I also wanted to know what zone is normal? Car VAZ 21074 (2004 Carburetor)
My fan turns on between the white and green scales. When the arrow is in the middle the entire scale is complete. Well, or it looks the other way - the car is boiling
The same problem! Tell me within what limits the arrow should be?! I’m in the white zone, almost to the green and it’s not going any further! Shouldn’t it be on the green in the middle or a little further?! After all, it’s not normal to drive when the engine is not at operating temperature?! The stove seems to be working fine! This means the temperature is normal, maybe the sensor itself is faulty?!
I have a temperature sensor for the fan at 78-80 and the temperature doesn’t rise too high either, I dropped one wire from the sensor and threw it on the button in the interior from the fan. On the street it was minus 30 - 40 and I went crazy in the cabin. and the idea is to have 2 Niva fans and 2 temperature sensors)
During normal driving in winter and summer, the temperature is almost in the middle a couple of mm after white, but on the highway after 160 the temperature rises (you have to turn the heater on to maximum, how can you prevent the temperature from rising?
judging by the photos this is normal (if the fan should work from the red zone to the white zone) if from white to red to the right this is bad somewhere the fan sensor or thermostat is covered or there is little antifreeze in the system or there is air in the system
I bought a car with almost the same scales as yours, and I’m also struggling with the notations... I’m also interested in the question of how the needle should behave and when the valve should turn on. And when the ignition is turned off, does the arrow go down a lot?
Tomorrow I'll take a photo of how it looks when it's turned off
I have an on-board computer, the factory setting for turning on the fan was 98 degrees, set it to 97 degrees
if the radiator is hot, then everything is fine, I always have between white and green the radiator is hot at this time
For me in the summer it turns on from the red zone mm 5 it comes out there depending on the temperature on the sensor! and now it generally turns on when it wants, apparently to the Khan sensor! I think when it comes out of red, the thermostat should work, well, again, it’s different for everyone)))
in fact, it should be approximately exactly 90 degrees, maybe just short of the central position, when did you change the scales and take off the arrow? Maybe I didn't install it correctly?
it was the same with the factory dials, it came out of red and the fan turned on
on the factory red scale this is already overheating, first white goes then green, look, maybe the fan switch sensor needs to be changed
Comments 74
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It's about nothing. In order for the temperature indicator to show not the weather on Mars, but the engine temperature, it needs to be calibrated for a specific TM-106. I showed it myself until it began to gurgle in the expansion tank...
And I drive like this and everything’s fine
Well, I’m not boiling either. I actually thought it wasn't heating up.
