Gazelle 406 engine injector does not start reasons

Experienced

Group: Member Messages: 744 Registration: 10/14/2012 From: Berdsk User No.: 211114

Activist

Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546

Coils can be weird like that. And also the high-voltage wires and tips need to be inspected and ringed, the resistance checked. tips often like to die. Since the spark plugs may be wet if the coils' brains are cut off. and by the way, where did the order 1234 come from when it should be 1342? Where are the cars anyway? Otherwise I can drive up and take a look, maybe I can help.

I looked at the photo on the drome. If the wires are connected in the same way as in the photo in the ad, then the wires of cylinders 1 and 4 need to be swapped on the coil. and then reset the errors (if I remember correctly, on Mikasa it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes).

Experienced

Group: Member Messages: 744 Registration: 10/14/2012 From: Berdsk User No.: 211114

Activist

Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546

Patriarch

Group: Member Messages: 22547 Registration: 02/19/2007 User No.: 41841

Activist

Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546

Patriarch

Group: Member Messages: 22547 Registration: 02/19/2007 User No.: 41841

Activist

Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546

Well, you have to watch it live. and the teeth will be exotic, they are fleshy and the pulley from below should be covered with a shield, in theory, no rubbish from the road should get on it.

By the way, I also remembered one sore that happens in the 406 family. For some time (a long time) the crankshaft pulley was not installed in one piece, but with a rubber damper. and it happens that this damper comes off and the part with the teeth rotates relative to the pulley hub. In this case, the engine will just sneeze, fill the spark plugs, and then an error will appear on the DPKV and will not start. It is easy to check: remove the belts from the pulley and try to turn it by hand by the ring gear. If it turns, the pulley needs to be replaced. I recommend replacing it with a solid one, without a damper.

14.5. It won’t start - useful tips

GENERAL INFORMATION

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have.
Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations. . Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and. What the hell. One more time. More. Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car.”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems occur there more often. Especially in wet weather.

From a spark it will ignite.

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one

. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If your car has an electronic ignition, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls on ground, the electronics will instantly die. For the same reason, you should not scratch the wire across the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two.

Crank the engine with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Along such a “conductor” the spark readily jumps anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it is not harmful to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called “runner”. If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will have to be replaced.

Carefully check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the spark plugs - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and impressively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the turned-out candles, collect the candles in a bunch, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire directly along their threaded part. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed the bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with the starter. In this case, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the spark plugs in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is fine. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the spark plugs turned out. Don't twist for too long. It’s worse if at the second stage of testing there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “housing”. This means that the problem is not in high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if you don’t have one, you can use an under-hood light bulb. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

Causes

Not for various reasons. Some of them are related to the time of year, while others are related to wear and tear. This problem can also be caused by the negligence of drivers who are careless about the maintenance of the power unit.

So, if not, there may be several reasons:

malfunction of fuel system components;
problem in valves and cylinders;
malfunctions in the ignition system;
breakdowns in the starter and battery;
air supply;
sensors and control unit.

Fuel cells

It is worth understanding that almost all elements affect the starting of the motor. For example, since the Gazelle was produced both with carburetor and injection, the injection elements will be different. This means that the reasons for possible breakdowns will not be the same.

The Gazelle-406 engine is an injection version of the vehicle. It has injectors installed, which can be the source of the problem. If cleaning has not been carried out, then most likely the injectors are dirty. To fix this, you need to remove the parts from the machine and send them for cleaning. If, during the process of restoring the functionality of the injectors, it turns out that the product cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced.

A fuel pump malfunction may be due to a breakdown inside the module. To check whether the pump is pumping, you need to get behind the wheel of the car and turn the ignition key to the second position. In this case, a characteristic noise should begin from behind, which will mean that the pump is in working condition.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filter. According to the service manuals and recommendations of the manufacturer, the fuel filter element must be changed every 40,000 km. If this is not done, the filter becomes clogged and does not allow fuel to pass through properly, which results in a lean mixture in the cylinders, or gasoline does not get in for ignition at all.

Recommendations

Comments 29

Recently, literally 2 days ago, I touched my friend’s head. I had the same crap as you. The engine was spinning at idle as if without spark plugs. They measured the compression, it showed 0, they threw off the head and after troubleshooting, they replaced the valves on all 4 cylinders. valves hang on our 406 engines

it was such bullshit. The crankshaft sensor died... it was a Chinese one... then I installed ours... I've been driving it for several months now and everything is fine... if the chain had jumped, there would have been popping noises in the silencer and in the intake... it happens that the buttons on the left side under the diagnostic connector die. change both... as far as I know they are for brains + injectors and a fuel pump... if the relay is dead. at least it won't start. I’ve already had this happen a couple of times... I’ve replaced 4 of them in three years...

Result: Crankshaft sensor Relyushki under the diagnostic connector

This is a DTOZH for everyone! Not long ago there was the same garbage!

Self-diagnosis shows code 12, which means it’s not the sensors...

Don't even touch the sensors yet. Were there any misfires in the engine before, or was there an incomprehensible knocking noise sometimes?

Well, there wasn’t a knock, under load it made a noise like a tractor, and then nothing

The valves were actually stuck. when you open your head, look carefully at the valves; there will be stripes on them from the impact on the piston. When they started rubbing the valves, the large plates were not completely rubbed. Because of this, the entire set was replaced

In general, I disassembled the timing belt and the lower chain broke. How to check if the valves are bent? Does the head need to be removed?

In theory it shouldn't bend. Try to assemble the timing belt and measure the compression.

Today I'll start collecting as I go. There was no money (

Well, there wasn’t a knock, under load it made a noise like a tractor, and then nothing

Why did I write so that you don’t dig deeper and look for the reason somewhere else in the bowels of the engine. and it is not necessary that all of them will have a stripe. Maybe one or two, but it is advisable to rub all the valves and change the valve seal. and be sure to pull them out of the guides, clean them and repair them

Self-diagnosis shows code 12, which means it’s not the sensors...

Valves and cylinders

Quite a few motorists monitor the condition of the power unit. As you know, wear and tear does not spare anyone or anything, and accordingly, burnout of valves and pistons can lead to the fact that at first the engine begins to start poorly, and then stops altogether.

The second nuance is the high degree of wear of the valves, which is why they do not fit tightly to the seats. Gasoline drips through the cracks into the cylinders. It turns out that there is an overflow of fuel, and since the spark plugs are filled, the power plant does not start due to the lack of a spark.

The valves are malfunctioning

When the engine starts and stalls, the cause of the breakdown is hidden in the operation of the valves (this applies to the gasoline model of the engine). Diesel options are characterized by a decrease in fuel pressure. For repairs, you should contact a service station, where they will carry out appropriate diagnostics and adjust the valves and adjust the operation of the timing belt.

Problems most often can be:

Unadjusted valves and uneven clearances do not allow the engine to operate stably.
Valve deformation. Replacement with subsequent adjustment of the timing will be required.
Overcooling of the power plant, which prevents normal warming up at startup.
Diesel fuel is frozen in the pipes.

Ignition system

Spark plugs and high-voltage wires directly affect engine starting. Accordingly, breakdowns in the elements will cause a failure of the entire system. To check spark plugs, a special stand is used, although you can check it the old fashioned way:

We unscrew the candle from the well.
We connect the armored wire.
Connect the spark plug body to ground.
We try to start the engine.

If everything is in order with the spark plugs, then there will be a spark between the contacts. If the part is faulty, then there will be no spark, and accordingly, the element must be replaced. Checking armored wires is quite simple. All elements are removed from the car and measured by a tester. The resistance on each high voltage wire should be 5 ohms.

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Poor starting on cold Gazelle 406 injector

Today -14, started only with the gas pedal. When hot, it starts without the gas pedal, but it turns several revolutions longer compared to a serviceable Volga 406i. Otherwise the engine runs like a clock. I understand from reading the conference archives that the temperature sensor is to blame, I want to try transferring it from the Volga.

Which temperature sensor needs to be replaced? The one in the receiver that measures the air temperature? Or is it a sensor in the thermostat housing?

Thanks in advance, Alexander (Gazelle 406i and Volga 406i).

PS Forgot to indicate: Gazelle, engine 4062, Mikas 7.1 film, 590 firmware.

It’s not a fact that the sensors.. It could be spark plugs (BB) or problems with freezing of the IAC (DZ). And when you operate the pedal, you simply control the speed yourself, and not MIKAS in XX mode

nope.. Look. If so, then there is NO heating of the DZ yet (the antifreeze is still COLD). And when it starts up, does the “air flow” “suck out” EVERYTHING with black smoke? Wow. If there is LOW oxygen (for example, the IAC is malfunctioning). That is what will happen - RE-ENRICHMENT.

Briefly speaking. I would still look at the “IAC steps” during startup and during operation. Another option is injector glitches

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Current time: Mon Aug 05, 2021 19:50

FakeHeader

Comments 11

Try pumping it up three times and starting it! 1 temperature sensor 2 pump is dying!

Try starting it with the gas pedal depressed. To be honest, there can be many reasons: injectors (flow), pump (pressure), jot (new, it’s not a fact that it’s working or not for your brain www.drive2.ru/l/5303392/), ignition angle, quality of gasoline, rxx ( try flushing), voltage on board (try to throw a wire on the coil with the + battery when it’s cold and start it like that, when you connect the ignition will turn on, that’s how it should be!), spark plugs (gap of spark plugs), air filter (unlikely, but still) , timing belt (stretched chain), try wiping the headlights before starting))) (HUMOR), maybe I missed something else, someone will add!

Thank you for your response, everything that you listed this year, everything was installed new, you understand, the mileage is 356,000 km... it starts but not the first time, the second or even the third... on a warm engine with half a turn... by the way, what kind of OZ should Mikasa 11 have? The ZMZ 405 won't start at all with the pedal depressed! If the forces were flowing when the ignition was turned on, popping noises would be made in the combustion chambers! this is not the case. Idle speed is perfect 800 rpm. Most likely the DTOZh stuck the wrong one!

On Mikasa I can’t say, it seems to be programmed there from the factory because it doesn’t change the advance angle from the onboard one. But on Soate it changes for me. Try to play around with the camshaft sensor, it also sometimes gets weird and there is no way to check it and it won’t give an error until it shorts out, it was like seven years ago, at idle there seemed to be little shaking and every other time it started normally, who knows? . you can check its integrity through resistance with a cartoon just like a jot, but I don’t remember the parameters ((, a guy suggested it a long time ago, since they are not exchangeable, he checked it right away from the cash register, out of 10 only 5-6 are normal .

jot Sensor resistance: 24…27 kOhm just in case

Battery problems

If the Gazelle does not start, then you should start searching for the impossibility of starting the engine with the battery. If it is insufficiently charged, the starter does not have enough energy to turn the crankshaft. In this case, a significant drop in the on-board network voltage occurs. The traction relay starts to click, but the engine cannot start.

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The situation with starting the engine with a discharged or old battery is aggravated in cold weather. There are two reasons for this:

engine oil thickens in the cold and it becomes more difficult for the starter to crank the crankshaft, which causes increased starting current and greater battery energy consumption;
When it's cold, the chemical reactions of the battery slow down and the battery becomes able to deliver less charge.

In winter, both of the above reasons overlap each other. Starting becomes especially difficult when cold. Under unfavorable conditions, the car may completely refuse to start.

With a discharged battery, many car owners start their Gazelle only with a pusher, but there are other ways, the main ones being:

start using ROM;
“lighting up” from another vehicle;
charging the original battery with a nominal or increased current and then starting the power unit.

A situation with a discharged battery does not require special attention from the car owner if it occurs only once. It is enough to recharge the battery and you can continue to operate the machine as before. If the battery dies often, then it is necessary to diagnose it. Based on its results, a decision is made on the method and feasibility of restoration work. In some cases, it is more rational to purchase a new battery.

If the battery shows full serviceability, but dies in a short period of time, then the on-board network must be checked. It may contain short circuits and high leakage currents. If they are identified, you should not delay troubleshooting. Prompt resolution of problems will eliminate the risk of a car fire.

The integrity of the battery case directly affects the success of starting the power unit.

The presence of through cracks and other similar defects leads to the loss of part of the electrolyte. The battery's ability to deliver starting current and energy is significantly reduced. To diagnose the problem, just carefully inspect the case. If any damage is detected, the car owner is faced with a choice between carrying out repairs or purchasing a new power source.