VAZ 2110 engine speed resets poorly

VAZ 2110 slowly slows down - causes of malfunction

For normal engine operation and acceptable fuel consumption, it is necessary that all power unit systems operate properly.
In this case, the engine should operate normally both under load and in idle mode. In practice, drivers quite often encounter a problem when, after releasing the gas, engine speed does not fall or falls with a long delay. It is quite obvious that high idle speed indicates a problem and is the cause of increased fuel consumption.

VAZ-2110 8 valve injector: speed drops and stalls, what to do?

Almost every owner of a domestic VAZ has encountered the problem of high idle speed. That is, when starting the engine, the speed is increased as expected, but when the engine warms up, it does not drop below 1500 or 1000 revolutions, which is not normal. There may be several reasons for this, including a malfunctioning TPS and idle air control.

To fix the problem, you should diagnose the main components and components that affect the increase in speed.

Why does the engine speed drop when idling the VAZ 2110 injector and carburetor

Let's start with the fact that on many cars with an injector, the ECU raises the speed while the internal combustion engine is warming up. This is necessary to ensure that the power unit operates stably after a cold start.

However, after the temperature rises, the control unit reduces the idle speed, bringing it to normal. On many cars with a carburetor, the driver independently increases the speed during warm-up, using the so-called “choke”.

Moreover, after the engine is warmed up, the normal idle speed is, on average, 650-950 rpm. If you press the gas and release the accelerator, the speed should increase, and then decrease again to the specified values.

Also, a situation often arises when the speed drops slowly or is constantly kept at around 1.5 thousand rpm, 2 thousand revolutions, etc. Naturally, in such cases, consumption increases and the internal combustion engine wears out more, which indicates the need for diagnostics.

VAZ 2110 Injector 8 starts and stalls

Often in the process of using a car, such a problem occurs when a VAZ 2110

It starts and stalls almost instantly, and from time to time the engine stops working even at low speeds. Naturally, this problem is encountered not only by owners of Russian cars, but also by owners of foreign cars. Any model is susceptible to this.

Probably drivers do not know how to act under these circumstances and begin to panic, feeling weak. You won't foolishly pull on wires and pipes, and of course kick the wheel. Such actions will definitely not help in determining the cause of the malfunction and in eliminating it.

Another situation arises when the majority of car enthusiasts calm down if the car still starts after some time, and considers: the car started, which means our client remains fine! However, the problem remains, it has not been resolved, and a similar situation is repeated. And again panic begins, to which indignation is added because the malfunction was not eliminated at the very first appearance of a similar picture.

The reasons for the fact that a car stalls at idle immediately when it starts are probably different, and in most cases they depend on the model, or in other words, the generation of different brands of cars. You will like this more, such as a clogged valve in the gas distribution system, and burnt relay contacts in the fuel pump.

Some car owners are able to perform ordinary work to identify the problem and remove it later. For those who do not belong to this category, it is recommended to go to a car service center, or, in other words, call a tow truck if it still does not start.

Methods for diagnosing the idle air regulator (IAC)

A more common reason for the described problem, as well as the fact that the car cannot be started at all, is a malfunction in the operation of such an engine part as the idle speed regulator.

Specifically on Russian-made cars, this occurs in most cases. There may be several situations where an IAC malfunction may occur.

When the car is moving, a short-term stop occurs; while it is busy, the engine stalls immediately when it starts, or refuses to start at all.

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VAZ 2110. Starts and stalls. What is the problem?

VAZ 2110 1.5 8kl, when the engine is warm, turn off your eyes and stand for a while, when you start to start it, you will notice that it becomes dull.

If the engine starts, normal idle speed is restored only when the accelerator pedal is pressed at least once. Observation of similar behavior can occur with a cool engine.

The initial attempt to start the engine is unsuccessful, normal operation is restored only after pressing the accelerator pedal.

In various situations, it may be enough to either press the pedal once, or hold it until the engine warms up. An IAC malfunction can occur during sudden braking, when the engine suddenly stalls, and restarting indicates a normal idle state above 1500 and within 2000 rpm.

If such a picture is observed with the car, there is an option to try washing the IAC and throttle assembly using a special solution. If the problems do not go away, the idle air control will have to be replaced. Gradually, some components wear out naturally.

Problem with the injector: features

Modern cars by and large have a forced fuel injection system.

Therefore, this situation, when a car stalls while driving, is quite common and is caused by the incorrect implementation of an injection engine.

It is not necessary to disconnect the battery while the engine is still running. You should resort to using a cigarette lighter in the very last cases, minimizing its use as much as possible.

Injector for VAZ 2110

It is better to exercise the utmost caution with the entire power system. Such actions can have a negative impact on the sensitive injector. If possible, it is better to leave the mass on.

Otherwise, the data on the computer is usually lost. It is better to let the engine run for about 3 minutes at idle speed.

When using charging and starting devices with the injector, the electrical control unit may burn out.

Read also: How to Change the Radiator of a VAZ 2110 Heater

If the car in the circuit has a neutralizer, then when trying to start the vehicle it is better to avoid towing it downhill.

This is how fuel is formed that was not used, which leads to spontaneous combustion when it enters the neutralizer. Avoid getting water into the engine.

For this purpose, you should change fuel filters on time and fill in high-quality gasoline.

VAZ 2110 starts and stalls when cold

If the engine does not start: methods for identifying defects

If the worst happens, there is no point in making useless tests and only discharging the battery by rotating the crankshaft.

A charge of electricity may still be useful if you manage to repair the car. At least to perform the starter's work. First you need to check whether the fuel pump is working, whether there is enough fuel, whether the ignition works.

Or perhaps there is a problem with the injectors that have failed, unfortunately this happens very rarely.

Their O-rings, vacuum hoses, and also gaskets wear out more often. The same applies to the electrical control unit (ECU), for the most part it works properly for a long time.

The fuel pump and its operation are controlled by sound. If it is missing, it is important to make sure that the wiring is in good condition. Sufficient voltage supplied to the fuel pump is 12 V.

The pressure created during its operation by the fuel supply system must be about 2-3 bar.

When fuel stops being supplied, the pressure drop occurs over time, and not instantly. If this happens almost immediately, then you need to check the fuel regulator, if it is not leaking. The fuel pressure regulator is turned off for a short period of time to ensure that the accounting system is working.

To check the ignition, the spark plug is connected to the ground very carefully so that the ECU does not burn out. The condition of the spark plugs will be a prerequisite for the car stalling while driving, but this happens quite rarely. The integrity of the wiring and shielding play a huge role in the performance of the synchronization sensor and when testing it.

Read also: What kind of oil is in the Skoda Octavia A7 engine

We should check what connections our client needs to make, which of course will influence the operation of the ECU. There is a high possibility that there is a disconnect somewhere.

With all this, a good signal of operability is the illumination of the Check Engine indicator. If it exists, then there is still hope.

But cars produced by VAZ do not allow you to find the error code and, accordingly, localize the fault without using a tester in this case.

Many errors, for sure, indicate a completely outdated part. Next you should measure the voltage supplied to the network. Typically, a running engine consumes 14 V, its cranking results in a voltage of 8 V, and a non-working one - 12.5 V. You should definitely make sure that the drive belt and camshaft are intact, which will not be too difficult.

Problems with carburetor cars

So, let's start with common carburetor problems. Often the engine speed does not drop due to problems with the throttle valve. For example, when the driver steps on the gas, the throttle must be opened wider to allow more air to enter the cylinders to burn fuel. After the gas pedal is released, the throttle closes and the speed decreases.

If the damper does not close completely, an over-enriched mixture enters the cylinders, and the speed is increased. The cause may be severe contamination of the throttle assembly or damage to the valve itself (deformation). First you need to clean the damper; carburetor cleaning liquid is suitable as a cleaner.

We also note that the damper does not close tightly even when the drive cable is worn out. In this case, the cable must be replaced. On carburetor cars, engine speed often does not drop even if the gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder head has failed. The culprit may also be an intake manifold that is damaged.

It should be noted that after cleaning the carburetor and fuel system, the engine speed slowly drops due to a failure in the adjustments of the idle system itself. In other words, after any manipulations with these components, the carburetor should be separately configured and adjusted.

The main task is to find the correct ratio of fuel and air. Often, a high level of fuel in the carburetor float chamber also leads to increased speed. The check should begin with the needle valve.

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Lada VAZ-2110 (2111, 2112). The engine slows down when you release the gas pedal

It is very important that the engine operates correctly in any mode, including idling. However, many car owners are faced with a problem: when they release the gas, the engine speed does not drop. As soon as such a defect is discovered, it is necessary to immediately find out the cause and eliminate the malfunction for the smooth operation of the car. Also, the engine may slow down for a long time, which also does not contribute to proper operation.

Typically, upon reaching operating temperature, the speed should drop to its normal level. The manufacturer indicates the indicators for each specific vehicle model in the operating manual. They may vary slightly depending on the mileage and general condition of the car, but usually stay within the range of 650-1000 rpm.

In some cases, the speed drops very slowly or even stays at the same level of 1500-2000 revolutions. In this mode, not only does fuel consumption increase, which affects the driver’s finances, but it also contributes to engine wear.

The cause of the idle failure must be diagnosed by qualified technicians. However, you can also understand on your own why the engine speed does not drop.

Problems with the carburetor system

When releasing gas, the drop in speed can be bad for both injectors and carburetor systems.

If the car has a carburetor, then there may be several defects.

Most often, the speed does not drop due to a faulty throttle valve. When the engine warms up, it is in the open position to allow more air into the system. Then it closes and the speed should drop.

If the throttle valve is not closed completely, the mixture will still be over-rich when the operating temperature is reached, and the speed will remain at the same level. If this part is heavily soiled or deformed, it cannot close completely.

You can clean the damper using a special product, which can be purchased at an automotive supply store. Deformation may require replacing the carburetor completely. The damper may not close tightly if the drive cable is severely worn. Replacing it may improve the situation.

Another common reason why the engine speed does not drop when idling is the gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder head, which has become unusable, or a damaged intake manifold.

After replacing the carburetor or cleaning the power system, you can often notice that the engine speed is slowly dropping. This occurs due to improper adjustment of the idle system; an over-enriched air-fuel mixture is often supplied. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to adjust the ratio of fuel and air supply to the system.

A high level of fuel in the carburetor float chamber can also cause a malfunction. The needle valve is responsible for it. Checking this detail may correct the situation.

Injector system

If your car has an injection system, there may be many more reasons for high idle speeds. Here, both mechanical elements and electronic devices responsible for adjusting the idle speed can fail.

The main injector malfunctions include:

Incorrect operation of the temperature sensor installed in the cooling system. Incorrectly received data from this device causes the electronics to recognize the engine as cold and work to warm it up, thereby maintaining high speeds necessary to reach operating temperature. Overheating can often occur, which leads to more serious damage, including major engine repairs. The same effect is possible if the idle speed control is not operating correctly. The throttle control cable may become stuck. The higher the mileage of the car, the higher the risk of encountering a similar problem. The electronic XX operation sensor often malfunctions, then the speed will either increase or disappear altogether. The spring that brings the throttle valve to its original closed position is not functioning properly, is jumping off, or is being stretched too far. Too much air enters the fuel combustion chamber due to poor quality or leaky gaskets. It is necessary to carefully check the seals of the manifold and injectors. And the simplest reason is usually the incorrect placement of the mat after a visit to a car wash or dry cleaning of the interior. It is often inaccurately placed under the accelerator pedal, which leads to the appearance of improper engine operation. If the car is oversaturated with various electronics and all the work is based on the correct functioning of the sensors, one of them may well become a problem. It will supply incorrect data to the computer, and as a result, the speed will not drop. You will most likely not be able to detect the problem on your own.

It is necessary to contact a car service for computer diagnostics. The task is best handled by specialists working at a service center that specializes in repairing a specific brand of car. If the diagnosis is carried out on time, then it is quite possible to get away with simply replacing the sensor.

You shouldn’t delay repairs, because a supersaturated mixture has a bad effect on engine performance and significantly shortens its service life.

Floating speed

In addition to slowly falling revs, car enthusiasts may encounter a phenomenon called floating revs, when they drop and then rise sharply. The reason is excessive air supply into the system, which causes the engine to spin up to 2 thousand revolutions at idle.

This often happens in cars that have a fuel injection sensor. It calculates how much air the mixture needs. When its operation is disrupted, different amounts of oxygen are supplied at different times, as a result, speed jumps are observed approximately every 3 seconds.

Faced with a similar phenomenon, the same computer diagnostics will be a prerequisite. It is very important that this and all subsequent work is carried out by experienced, qualified specialists. By contacting a service that does not specialize in breakdowns of this kind, you may be faced with the need to carry out an expensive overhaul of the engine ahead of time.

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Reasons for floating speed on fuel-injected cars

Now let's move on to the injector. Please note that on many injection cars, after cleaning the throttle valve, the assembly also needs to be additionally “trained”. As for problems, the injection system itself is more complex, that is, there are more reasons for high speeds compared to the carburetor.

Coolant sensor - coolant

As a rule, problems with speed can be caused by problems with both mechanical elements and electronic components. In the list of main malfunctions, experts highlight malfunctions of the coolant temperature sensor, which is installed in the cooling system.

In simple words, if the specified sensor gives an incorrect signal, the ECU considers that the engine is cold and activates the warm-up mode. In this case, the control unit raises the speed so that the power unit operates stably and reaches operating temperature faster.

Idle air control - IAC

Also, problems with speed can begin due to problems and malfunctions in the operation of the IAC (idle air regulator). It also happens that the throttle cable gets stuck and becomes wedged. The spring that closes the throttle valve may also become stretched or damaged.

Air leak

Special attention should be paid to gaskets, since air leaks can lead to disruption of mixture formation. This means that you need to separately inspect manifold gaskets, injector seals, etc.

Main reasons

As noted above, there are many factors that ensure the occurrence of the characteristic in question. For example, instability of speed when idling is on can provoke failure of the mass air flow sensor.

Sensors can also be “naughty”:

speed;
throttle position;
crankshaft

A problem with speed is often caused by the idle speed control, as well as faulty spark plugs, air filter, wiring, etc.

Next, we will consider all the options in more detail.

Floating speed: reasons

Note that in some cases the revolutions do not just slowly fall or remain at the same level, but “float”. In this case, the engine may become unstable. Floating speeds first fall, then increase sharply and everything repeats. A common cause of this phenomenon is the supply of excess air, which leads to “jumps” in speed.

Such problems arise if the air supply sensor (MAF) fails, which allows the ECU to calculate how much air is supplied and how much fuel is supplied to prepare the required mixture.

If malfunctions occur, the control unit cannot prepare the “correct” mixture for the idle mode, which causes speed jumps after releasing the gas pedal or when the engine is idling.

Causes

There may be several reasons for the lack of proper speed gain:

There are problems with the air supply;
The ignition has failed;
Fuel system malfunctions have occurred;
There were problems with the exhaust system.

Fuel system problems are common in gasoline engines. They are the most common. Therefore, you should start with checking it.

Fuel system

If problems arise when accelerating the car, start checking by inspecting the fuel system.

Most often, the engine stops gaining momentum because the fuel pump fails. At first, this may have a slight effect, sometimes unnoticed. Over time, as the pump wears out, the speed and power will begin to drop, and the acceleration dynamics will decrease.
If the fuel pump is partially damaged, it still partially performs its functions, but is no longer capable of delivering the same volumes of fuel. This results in fuel starvation and power loss.
The best solution to a problem with the pump is to replace it. It is better to trust repairs to specialists.

Ignition

If the ignition fails, you will have to conduct a comprehensive check of all system components that may cause a drop in engine power and speed.

What to check

Peculiarities

Checking timing marks

If the marks are installed incorrectly, fuel will not be injected in a timely manner, and the correct frequency of spark supply will be disrupted.

You will have to check all the sensors that take part in the operation of the ignition system. Pay special attention to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. A regular test allows you to quickly determine whether the sensors are really to blame

If the belt has been in use on your vehicle for a long time, it may be at the end of its service life. Or it was installed incorrectly when replacing it. After all, it is enough to make a mistake by one tooth, and the performance of the car will be impaired, the car will not be able to accelerate properly

In some cases, they do not allow the car to start at all if there is a malfunction, but sometimes they lead to a noticeable drop in power. Remove them, check their condition, clean them, measure the distance between the electrodes. If they fail, simply replace them with new ones.

To finally verify the presence or absence of problems in the ignition system, it is recommended to conduct more detailed diagnostics.

Diagnostics

We suggest you familiarize yourself with several steps aimed at diagnosing the condition of the ignition system. This may help determine why the engine is not revving up.

Make sure that the electronic control unit is performing its functions. First of all, turn on the ignition and listen to whether the fuel pump starts working.
Measure the pressure in the fuel line. If the readings fall within 2.5-3.0 kg/cm3, then everything is fine.
If the measurement readings are normal, check the BitStop parameter using scan tools while cranking the crankshaft. If the parameter is indicated “no”, then the ECU receives the command to create a spark at the plugs and works well.
Using a high-voltage spark gap, you can check for the presence of a spark. After all, it’s not uncommon for worn-out, dirty spark plugs to be to blame.

Air supply

It is not uncommon for engine thrust to deteriorate due to a disruption in the normal air supply to create the air-fuel mixture.

If there is more air, the mixture will be lean because the amount of oxygen will exceed the amount of fuel. Hence the drop in power and decrease in traction.

The easiest way to solve an air supply problem is to replace the air filter. In order to prevent and prevent problems from occurring, this element should be changed twice a year.

Checking the mass air flow sensor

If the engine speed increases, but the speed does not increase, there are several possible explanations for this phenomenon:

The pressure in the fuel system is too low;
The operation of the mass air flow sensor is disrupted. The sensor most often returns to its previous performance after cleaning. If it doesn't help, replace it;
The air filter is clogged. It is better to replace it;
The nozzle is clogged. This is mainly due to the low quality of the fuel you fill your car with.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, in order to accurately determine why the engine speed is not reset, in many cases in-depth diagnostics may be necessary. For carburetor engines, cleaning and adjustment of the carburetor itself is often necessary, while the injector will require computer diagnostics.

If the problem is not on the surface (the throttle cable has become sour, after washing or dry cleaning, the carpet in the cabin is not installed correctly, which presses the gas pedal, etc.), then it is better to take the car to a service center.

The most complex situation is when the design of the power system involves the presence of a large number of sensors and actuators. In this case, even the use of diagnostic equipment does not always allow you to quickly and accurately determine the problem.

If diagnostics are difficult, it is optimal to deliver the car to a service that specializes in repairing a specific brand of car. As a rule, these are official dealer service stations; it is less common to find third-party organizations.

Finally, we note that timely detection of a problem allows you to save the life of the internal combustion engine and other components and assemblies. In other words, high idle speeds, floating speeds and jumps indicate that there are problems with the air/fuel supply or with mixture formation. Ignoring such problems negatively affects the engine and its service life.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Source

Why might there be high idle speed?

One of the main reasons may be the failure of the IAC, which is responsible for adjusting the engine speed at idle. If the sensor malfunctions, the speed can “float”, rise and fall spontaneously. If the sensor completely fails, the car may simply stall at idle.

Also, increased speeds can be caused by a malfunction of the throttle position sensor (TPS). Over time, moisture gets under the sensor, which leads to the formation of oxide and rust on the regulator rod. To check this, you need to unscrew the sensor and carefully inspect it and the rod. If rust is found on them, they should be treated with penetrating lubricant or WD 40.

As a rule, the problem of increased speed on the VAZ 2110-12 lies precisely in these two sensors. Therefore, first of all, you need to pay attention to them.

Functionality check

We have already talked about where the sensor is located. The first thing you need to do is find it and remove the block with wires. On a VAZ 2110, you must first unscrew the fastening elements of the throttle assembly, then move the entire assembly by about 10 mm.

Check with a voltmeter that the voltage is appropriate to the sensor. To do this, you must first connect the negative terminal of the battery to ground and connect a voltmeter to terminals A and D (they are usually marked), then:

If the voltmeter shows less than 12V, this most likely indicates that the battery is not charged;
If nothing is shown, faults should be looked for in the electronic control unit or in the circuit;
If the reading is 12V or more, you need to check the regulator directly, or more precisely, its resistance;
We connect a tester to the four terminals, which should give a total resistance reading of 50 or 55 Ohms.

Testing in pairs should give an infinitely large resistance. If the idle speed sensor on a VAZ 2110 (injector) gives different readings, it means it needs replacement.

You can also test the regulator in another way: remove the sensor and connect the block. Pressing the needle with your finger, watch its extension. When the ignition is turned off, there should be a push of the needle.

If everything is normal, then usually the speed does not fluctuate and the sensor itself is in working condition. If there is no shock, you can try cleaning the mechanism.

This is done using a special cleaner called WD-40. They very carefully, using a cotton swab, clean everything that is possible in the sensor.

Particularly carefully - the rod, as well as the needle. But if this does not help, a replacement is needed.

We fix the problem with idle speed on the VAZ-2110 in 10 minutes

Everyone has something happen to their car at some point.
So my VAZ-2110 periodically has problems. What can I say, she’s already old. My 10-wheeler began to show increased revs. It seems like I let off the gas, but the revs remain high. Then they gradually decrease. Or it idles, everything seems to be fine, and then suddenly the revs increase and increase on their own. I tried to lubricate the gas cable, the pedal and the device itself that transmits the movement of the cable to the damper. There's no point. And one time I decided to look from the other side, where the throttle position sensor is located. Removing the sensor was not difficult; all you need to do is unscrew two bolts, after first removing the terminal from it. Having unscrewed the sensor, I saw that there were signs of rust inside, and having tried to turn it inside with a screwdriver, I was convinced that the movement of the wheel, which should regulate the position of the damper, was difficult, which could well have affected the shortcomings that the car had. In general, having removed the sensor, I generously poured aerosol lubricant inside it, which is sold in cans. After waiting a little for the lubricant to seep inside the sensor, I inserted a screwdriver and carefully began to turn the wheel, allowing the lubricant to penetrate more abundantly. As a result of such manipulations, almost immediately the wheel began to rotate without difficulty. Having inserted the foam ring on the sensor, I also generously lubricated it from a spray can. For reliability and fidelity, I covered with grease the exit point of the damper part and the mechanism itself to which the cable is connected. As a result, after such a simple repair, the idle speed of my car returned to normal limits. And it all took no more than ten minutes. But apparently, due to the high humidity in the area where I live, this procedure has to be repeated approximately once every eight to ten months. And watch the video test drive of Skoda Kodiak 2017. We fix the problem with idle speed on the VAZ-2110 in 10 minutes

Where are the IAC and TPS sensors located?

So, first, let's check the IAC sensor. It is located on the throttle assembly below the TPS sensor. Dismantling it is very simple - remove the block from the sensor and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two bolts securing it. Then we pull out the sensor or perform diagnostics on it, read about this below.

The throttle position sensor is located above the IAC and is also secured with two bolts. It unscrews quite easily; there is no need to remove either the pipe or the throttle itself. Disconnect the block, unscrew the two bolts and pull out the sensor.

To make sure that the problem with high speed is really in one of these sensors, and maybe in each other at once, you should diagnose them.

Diagnostics of the IAC sensor VAZ 2110

There are several ways to check the idle speed control. To check we need a multimeter. First, let's describe the simplest way:

IAC check method 1

Disconnect the block and unscrew the sensor
Turn on the ignition
We connect the block to the removed sensor, the needle in it should extend. If this does not happen, then the sensor is faulty.

IAC check method 2

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
Using a multimeter, we measure the resistance of the external and internal windings of the IAC, while the parameters of contacts A and B, and C and D should be 40-80 Ohms.
If the instrument scale is zero, it is necessary to replace the IAC with a serviceable one, and if the required parameters are obtained, we check the resistance values in pairs B and C, A and D.
The multimeter should detect an open circuit
With such indicators, the IAC is serviceable, and if they are absent, the regulator must be replaced.

IAC test method 3

Disconnect the block from the sensor
Using a voltmeter, we check the voltage - the “minus” goes to the engine, and the “plus” to the terminals of the same block of wires A and D.
The ignition is turned on, and the received data is analyzed - the voltage should be within twelve volts, if less, then most likely there are problems with the battery charge. If there is no voltage, then you will have to check both the electronic control unit and the entire circuit.
Then we continue the inspection with the ignition on, and analyze terminals A:B, C:D one by one - the optimal resistance will be about fifty-three ohms; During normal operation of the IAC, the resistance will be infinitely high.

Does not reach warm-up speed — Lada 2110, 1.5 l., 2002 on DRIVE2

, which I wrote about earlier: www.drive2.ru/l/493954225462575781/ www.drive2.ru/l/493956149607924070/ www.drive2.ru/l/494483365433442493/ appeared again

, again
you need to hold the gas pedal
for a while
until it warms up or reaches the required speed on its own
.
I decided to catch this moment with the computer connected and the next problem turned out to be IAC, it just has a stepper motor. I look at the stepper motor parameter, the reading is 112 steps, I hold the pedal (the engine is cold), then the revolutions begin to increase on their own, and the readings become 50 steps and are added just up to the same 112 steps
.
Of course, the IAC was bad, the ECU took incorrect readings from it - it was written incorrectly, that is, most likely it simply jammed and did not move as many steps as the impulses came to it, and it was a new IAC, how to say new, when it first appeared this problem, I immediately bought a new IAC and installed it, but no miracle happened. In my deposits of “treasures” I had one removed for more than 5 years from my brother’s 10, IAC, visually inspected it, washed it, lubricated the rod with silicone grease, after which it lay in a vertical position with the rod upside down for about a week (there was no time), then installed
this
IAC
and lo and behold, it’s a completely different matter
when the car starts up, the tachometer needle jumps a little
, as it should be, as if it had become younger

[Closed] Solved: High revs and won't go down

Topic: Resolved: High RPM and won't go down

I encountered the same problem when switching the speed to neutral or just when you give gas, the revolutions stand at about 2000 or more and do not fall. The car also jerks when you switch from 1st to 2nd gear. The car never stalls, and there is never any sign in the instrument panel megal "CHECK ENGINE". I would like to know what is the reason, the sensors? And which sensor is damaged? The THROTTLE sensor? or IDLE CONTROL?

2 Reply from Admin 2012-05-25 09:45:32

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

Here's about TPS, how to check what's wrong.

3 Reply from Alexander 2012-05-25 09:56:31

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

Here's about TPS, how to check what's wrong.

There are a few differences, for example the engine never stalled.

Added: 2012-05-25 10:56:31

but I can’t measure it, I don’t have an ohmmeter, because I’m not good with electricians ((

4 Reply from Admin 2012-05-25 10:58:45

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

the engine never stalled

it may not stall

try to determine by diagnosing the car or replacing the part with a known working one.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to tell 100% from the symptoms what exactly went wrong.

5 Reply from volodyaw87 2012-05-25 14:02:14

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

I went for diagnostics, you can see the percentage of closing the throttle position on it.

6 Reply from Maxim 2012-05-25 17:57:44 (2012-05-25 17:58:26 edited by Maxim)

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

Usually, when the TPS is faulty, the check light does not come on, but the symptoms are the same as you describe

When the IAC is running, you remove the chip; if it stalls or the speed remains the same, the regulator is dead. If you've grown up, good!

We put the IAC connector back on and remove the chip from the MAF, if the speed has increased, the MAF is serviceable, and if it stalls, it is dead.

We put the DPZD connector back on and remove it from the mass air flow sensor. If the engine picks up speed on its own, the TPS is working; if it stalls, it’s dead.

7 Reply from Alexander 2012-06-01 11:12:37

Re: Solved: High revs and won't go down

The problem is solved. I replaced the DPS, bought Rikor Electronics OJSC, Arzamas. I've been driving for a week so far, everything is ok.

Thanks said: Admin 1

Engine speed does not reset: possible reasons

In practice, drivers quite often encounter a problem when, after releasing the gas, engine speed does not fall or falls with a long delay. It is quite obvious that high idle speed indicates a problem and is the cause of increased fuel consumption.

In this article we will talk about why engine speed does not drop, and also consider the main reasons why such problems arise on carburetor and injection cars.

When releasing the gas, the speed is increased or “freezes”: common malfunctions

Idle speed control

There are several signs that this device is broken. First of all, because of this, the revolutions fluctuate. Besides:

the engine sometimes does not start;
There is no power even after the engine warms up;
When switching to neutral, the power plant stalls.

The speed fluctuates most noticeably when electrical appliances are in operation (headlights, air conditioning, radio, etc.).

However, installing a new regulator does not always correct the situation - it is for this reason that before checking it, it is necessary to cut off all the above-mentioned options without exception.

The same multimeter can help determine the reason why the speed fluctuates. Before this you should:

disassemble the throttle mount and move it a maximum of a centimeter;
remove the negative cable from the battery and place it on ground;
Connect the probes of the measuring device to the outputs marked with the letters A and D.

So, if the multimeter shows less than 12 volts, then this means that the problem arose due to a low battery. A higher voltage indicates failure of the IAC resistor. In this situation, it is the resistance that should be checked. Switch the multimeter to ohms and take a measurement - the norm will be from 50 to 55.

The complete lack of data suggests that the idle speed is floating due to a broken wiring.

The question of why the idle speed is floating is perhaps the most frequently asked question regarding the engine. Indeed, problems with idle are a common occurrence that car owners have to deal with.

The most unpleasant thing is not that this is very serious or that repairs will be too expensive and time-consuming, but that there can be a lot of reasons why the idle speed is floating. In this article I will try to help you find and eliminate the cause of unstable engine speed, so that you save your time and nerves.

How to eliminate high idle speed of VAZ 2110

One of the reasons for high idle speeds of the VAZ 2110 engine may be poor performance of the throttle position sensor due to the formation of rust on its internal elements.

Eliminating high idle speed of VAZ 2110

We treat the throttle valve output rod and the mechanical control mechanism to which the cable is connected with aerosol lubricant.

Eliminating high idle speed of VAZ 2110

Which TPS sensor to choose for replacement

For stable and long-term operation of the sensor, we advise you not to buy too cheap analogues of questionable quality. The factory installed throttle position sensor was GM 2112-1148200 .

DPDZ /2110/ GM 2112-1148200 price from 300 rub.
DPDZ /2110/ PEKAR 2112-1148200 price from 200 rub.
TPDZ /2110/ StartVOLT VS-TP 0110 price from 200 rub.
TPDZ /2110/ HOFER HF 750260 price from 150 rub.
DPDZ /2110/ CJSC Account Mash 2112-1148200-05 price from 400 rub.
DPDZ /2110/ JSC RIKOR ELECTRONICS 2112-1148200 price from 300 rub.