Ignition coil VAZ 2106
The VAZ 2106 ignition system includes:
- ignition coil;
- distributor;
- spark plug;
- low voltage wires;
- high voltage wires;
- egnition lock;
- ignition relay.
Diagram of the VAZ 2106 ignition system: 1 - generator; 2 - battery; 3 — four-pin connecting block; 4 — ignition coil; 5 — distributor (distributor); 6 — ignition switch; 7 - high voltage wires; 8 - spark plugs
Purpose
The ignition coil is a high-voltage pulse transformer. Its main function is to create a high voltage in the circuit to form a spark. A spark, in turn, is necessary to ignite the fuel-air mixture during operation of an internal combustion engine. If the coil is faulty, the car simply will not be able to start.
The ignition coil is cylindrical in shape
Location
On the VAZ 2106, the ignition coil is installed in the left front corner of the engine compartment. It is fixed to the mudguard with two nuts and can be easily removed if necessary.
The VAZ 2106 ignition coil is mounted in the upper front corner under the windshield frame
Device and connection diagram
The central part of the coil is the core, on which about 30 thousand turns of thin wire of the secondary winding are wound. A layer of thick wire is wound onto the secondary winding - the primary winding. Some ends of both windings are connected to the battery, the other to a distributor that controls the power supply. During the winding process, the thin and thick wire will have points of contact. One of these points must be connected to a voltage switch. In this case, the function of the coil core is reduced to enhancing the magnetic field.
When connecting the coil, it is important to follow the order of connecting the individual wires in accordance with their functions
Ignition coil device
It is necessary to know the structure of the ignition coil in order to be able to imagine its electrical circuit and why it is needed in the car’s ignition system.
ignition coil B117-A
You have become familiar with the design of the coil. Now let’s compare the structure of the ignition coil with its schematic representation of two windings, for a more visual representation of its structure.
What is the reason?! The ignition coil gets hot and...
What is the reason?! ? The ignition coil and distributor contacts are heating up, VAZ 2105.
You need to take another coil. Knownly good, exactly the same. And measure the resistance of the low-voltage and high-voltage windings on both. And compare. Stasyan Do you think there is a short circuit in the winding?? Comrade It is possible that some of the turns in the primary (low-voltage) winding may short-circuit. The current at the contacts and in the coil increases. This is the reason for overheating. Stasyan Thank you)) As an option. Comrade, if the condenser on the distributor is damaged, the contacts will burn. Vatento And the coil?? It worked on the old reel, but it was wrong. Comrade, if it weren’t for all these ifs, the person’s contacts weren’t burnt out (which, in principle, happens when the condenser is bad and doesn’t extinguish the spark), everything melted there, I had to deal with such difficult cases, the reason is haste and lack of knowledge, but the coil is original when bad conder does not heat up Irchik, check the capacitorSide It has nothing to do with it Comradeconder, what does it have to do with it? The distributor seat in Irchik has a bolt and a triangular ram clamp. to the block. When tightening, the iron pin becomes distorted and all the rubbing parts heat up. That is, an uneven fit (wear). and at first, Lenka also vinyled the electrician. The troika distributor gets stuck through a bunch of gaskets (rings, and usually licks the distributor drive gear!! This is definitely an electrician. But where exactly and for what reason??) Comrade, there would be more such masters, look what other people write, more experienced
do not confuse mechanics and electrics Irchik
If you install a coil from a V-8, then everything will get hot there. You only need B-117 for the contact system. Check the capacitor (should be 22uF), or better yet, replace it. And adjust the gap on the contacts. From closing to opening with a slow turn of the crankshaft, the slider should turn 55+/-3 degrees. The coil is not the same, there is a difference between the coils, take the device and measure the resistance of the primary winding, and NEVER rush into repairs. Irchik how to connect a tachometer to a VAZ 2101? If possible, a detailed and detailed answer, people who have links to where the multimedia manual is for operation and repair of the VAZ 2101 Tell me how to change the front crankshaft oil seal. VAZ 2101.VAZ 2101 Is it possible to pick up some very wide tires for the rear to grab the plow and burn out the dacha? What to come up with? VAZ-21011 engine. When does the timing chain change?
Why does the ignition coil on a UAZ 469 get hot?
UAZ 469, contact ignition, B115 coil with a resistance on the body of the coil itself and three contacts, in addition to the central one for the distributor.
It gets so hot that it burns your hand after 15 minutes of operation. I have already replaced 3 pieces, stinking crap leaks out of them and stops working. I don't understand what's wrong. It is connected like this: one wire goes to the distributor, where the capacitor is, one goes to the starter relay (not on the starter, but a separate relay) to the “short circuit” contact and one more to the fuse block. Where is the mistake? Why do the coils burn? I understand that the wiring is connected wrong somewhere, but where? About the coils here: https://www.forum.uazbuka.ru/showthread.php?t=94792
They are on - the variator is probably bypassed all the time and the current flows in excess of the calculated one, check its bypass circuit (starter relay). In general, you would throw it in the trash along with the variator and other dregs and buy a B-117 from a classic Zhiguli, then you would just have cams and +12 volts coming to it, and that’s all.
About the coils here: https://www.forum.uazbuka.ru/showthread.php?t=94792
They are on - the variator is probably bypassed all the time and the current flows in excess of the calculated one, check its bypass circuit (starter relay). In general, you would throw it in the trash along with the variator and other dregs and buy a B-117 from a classic Zhiguli, then you would just have cams and +12 volts coming to it, and that’s all.
About the coils here: https://www.forum.uazbuka.ru/showthread.php?t=94792
They are on - the variator is probably bypassed all the time and the current flows in excess of the calculated one, check its bypass circuit (starter relay). In general, you would throw it in the trash along with the variator and other dregs and buy a B-117 from a classic Zhiguli, then you would just have cams and +12 volts coming to it, and that’s all.
And instead of 116 117 it will work, it’s lying around in the garage, if it can be used, I’ll put the VUAZ in a spare parts kit.
And instead of 116 117 it will work, it’s lying around in the garage, if it can be used, I’ll put the VUAZ in a spare parts kit.
It will, but the spark will be weaker, B-117 is a dead coil for contact systems, where the current is limited by cams, and B-116 is a more powerful “non-contact” coil for a system with an inductive distributor.
Which ones are in the distributor, what others?
