Replacing the handbrake cable (parking brake) on a Lada Granta with your own hands

Pull up the handbrake

But if you really know how to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Granta standard, this procedure will not take you much time and effort. The only thing that is required for its implementation is a jack or an inspection hole, because access to adjustable components and assemblies occurs from below and you will have to work under the car. To tighten (adjust) the handbrake you will need 3 tools:

two open-end wrenches for 13, one of them is preferably a socket one;
one key head for 8;
a faithful assistant (although in desperate situations you can get by alone).

The process of directly adjusting the manual braking system of a Lada Granta car is carried out in nine main stages:

We lower the handbrake lever inside the car.
We climb under the car, unscrew the rubber cushions (brackets) from the resonator, and remove the muffler from its attachment to the body.
We remove the protective screen of the parking brake adjustment mechanism. To do this, use a socket wrench to unscrew the 4 nuts from the fastening bolts.
We remove the protective screen or move it to the side behind the muffler - in this case, the necessary space for work is also quite enough. In this case, the muffler can be pulled back with something, for example, by pushing a block of wood under it.
We take two 13mm wrenches - the first one is to slightly loosen the locknut, holding the adjusting nut. Then vice versa - hold it, and secondly turn (also loosening) the adjusting nut.
Actually, we adjust the hand brake as follows: tighten the handbrake cable, for which we tighten the adjusting nut (move the key clockwise).
Next, you should check the travel of the handbrake lever - this is why you need a partner, or you will have to do it yourself. The lock nut can be tightened when the handbrake stroke is 2-4 clicks (see above).
Then we test the operation of the parking brake mechanism as a whole. To do this, lift the rear wheels and check how freely they rotate when the handbrake is lowered and how completely they lock when fully raised (in this case they should not rotate at all!).
If the handbrake is working properly, tighten the locknut and replace the protective screen and muffler. The handbrake adjustment is complete!

As the mileage and life of the vehicle increases, the handbrake becomes less and less adjustable. It happens that even after adjustment, the manual braking system does not work properly and does not “hold” the car. This indicates that the wear on the brake pads is too high or the cable stretch is irreversible.

Lada Granta: repair, operation, tuning and maintenance

Perhaps checking the brakes of any car is the key to your safety

In my opinion, the car’s brakes need to be prevented and checked at least once every two weeks, this will make your driving comfortable and safe, which is the most important thing, but now we will talk about the brakes of the Lada Granta. So, let's get started!. Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel

Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins

Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel. Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins.

Next, we loosen the handbrake cable and remove the cotter pin that holds the block, after all, pull out the lever, then remove both springs, the upper one and definitely the lower one, and then remove the blocks.

First the pads, then the upper tension spring and install the lower tension spring, and of course, don’t forget to put the handbrake cable on the lever! Install the brake drum, it is advisable to clean it and lubricate it with special lubricant. It's called graphite.

After cleaning, we put it in place, then the most basic procedure is bleeding the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes.

For this you will need a partner. One person will sit in the car and press the brake 5-6 times until it hits the floor. And the second one needs to sit near the brake disc.

When you unscrew, the second one should begin to press the brake pedal; when the pedal rises, the screw will need to be tightened. And so 5-6 times.

As a result, air will escape. This will then lead to the release of brake fluid.

Please note that when the liquid pours, it should be free of bubbles. When the procedure is completed, put the wheel in place. Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

All we can say is that we are almost done with the brakes. Next we tighten the handbrake. Use a special wrench to tighten the handbrake.

Keys are sold in all auto parts stores, so you should not have any difficulties buying a key.

That's all, I wish you good luck and stop breaking your brakes!

‹ Possible malfunctions Up Replacing brake fluid ›

Adjusting the Grant's handbrake

Adjusting the parking brake of a VAZ 2190 is no more difficult than on a classic or “chisels”. Let's look at the step-by-step principle, starting with inventory.

Necessary tool for tightening the handbrake

What you will need for work:

Inspection pit, overpass, lift;
Keys: open-end and ratchet with long head 13;
Socket wrench or ratchet with a 10mm head;
Possibly WD-40.

It is better to do all the work with a partner, who will check how far the lever rises from the inside of the car. Otherwise, after each tightening of the cables, you will have to climb into the cabin yourself.

The lift will make it much easier to adjust the parking brake.

Parking brake adjustment principle

So, the car is on a pit/lift, the tool is in your hands - the handbrake is loose. What to do?

Step 1: find a resonator under the bottom. We remove its mount, located closer to the front of the car. Then, using a socket wrench or a ratchet with a 10mm socket, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the heat shield.

If the bolts are rusty, you can pour WD-40 on them and try to unscrew them. If the studs still don’t work and break, you need to be prepared to replace them. Otherwise, the screen cannot be put back.

This way we get the opportunity to move the screen forward without removing it. Underneath there is access to the parking brake adjustment mechanism.

Step 2: slide the screen forward to access cable adjustment.

Remove the cushion mount 1, unscrew the bolts 2. Move the screen 3.

Step 3: holding the adjusting nut (open-end wrench size 13), loosen the lock nut (head size 13).

Step 4: Rotate the adjusting nut clockwise to tighten the cables. Periodically check from the inside how the handbrake is holding.

We do not remove the locknut! Just weaken it.

As soon as the parking brake lever reaches 3-4 clicks, tighten the locknut.

1-lock nut. 2-adjusting nut. For convenience, you can loosen the locknut and rotate them both clockwise with a long head of 13.

Step 5: return the heat shield to its place, fix the fastening screws and the rubber suspension of the resonator.

Checking work:

the rear axle is suspended, the parking brake is removed - the rear wheels rotate freely;
the rear axle is suspended, the brake lever is raised (to maximum tension - 3-4 clicks) - the rear wheels do not rotate even with force.

Crib

Instead of a conclusion, let's summarize :

Carry out work on a lift, pit or overpass;
Tools: open-end wrench 13, ratchet with heads 10 and 13 (preferably long);
It is not necessary to remove the heat shield - just move it forward as the vehicle moves;
The ideal stroke is 3-4 clicks of the handle until the rear wheels come to a complete stop.

If you've already started adjusting the brakes, maybe change the rear pads too? Detailed instructions with description and photos are here.

Have something to add to the article, share your opinion or recommend? Write in the comments!

A necessary tool for tightening the handbrake.

Two keys for 13. It is advisable that one of them be a socket.
Head 8.
A partner, but you can do without him. The truth is it’s more difficult without him.

The principle of adjusting the handbrake

Fully lower the handbrake lever in the cabin.
Place the car on a pit or lift it on a lift. Some car owners manage to adjust the handbrake “from the curb” - but this is inconvenient and dangerous.
Find the resonator from the bottom of the car and remove it from the rubber brackets.
Using a ratchet, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the protection of the handbrake adjustment mechanism (protective screen).
Next, you can either remove the protective screen, but it seems to me that it is easier to move it forward behind the muffler, which will free up space that is enough for free work.
Loosen the first nut with a 13mm wrench.
By tightening the adjusting nut, tighten the handbrake cable that comes out of the passenger compartment.
Ask a partner to check the stroke of the lever handle, or check it yourself.
As soon as the handbrake moves 3-4 clicks, tighten the lock nut.
Before the final stage of work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the brake mechanism. To do this, hang the rear wheels and watch how they rotate with the hand brake off. They also check how the wheels grip when the handbrake is raised.
Next, return the protective screen to its place, screw it onto the seats and put rubber fasteners on the resonator.

General questions about the parking brake on Grant

Let's look at a few basic questions about VAZ 2190 brakes.

Operating principle of the Granta handbrake

When raising the handbrake lever in the passenger compartment:

the drive brake cable is tensioned;
through the equalizer he pulls the cables going to the rear brake pads;
The pads are pressed against the brake drums through expansion bars, stopping the wheel from moving;
When the tension is loosened (removed from the handbrake), the tension of the cables also weakens, and the wheels move freely.

Lever 1 pulls cables 3 through cable 2. Those, through levers 4 and strips 5, push the brake pads apart.

Why is it necessary to tighten the parking brake?

If the cable tension is loosened, there is a danger of the vehicle rolling away.

The Granta mechanical handbrake has a conventional device without self-adjustment. The same instructions apply to Lada Kalina, Priora.

This means that as the rear pads wear out, the original parking brake setting will lose effectiveness.

Checking the operation of the hand brake

There are two ways to find out if the parking brake system on the Lada Granta is in order. They work separately: if at least one type of test shows something wrong, the handbrake needs adjustment. So:

Stop the car on an uphill or downhill slope of about 23-25 degrees, then put the handbrake in the raised position and turn off all gears. The car must stand still and not roll down. If this happens, the handbrake is working properly and you are in no danger. Otherwise, the handbrake on your car needs adjustment.
The travel of the hand braking system lever is checked. If the ratchet mechanism clicks 2-4 times before being completely moved to the parking position, there is no need to worry, the handbrake is working properly.

There are only two reasons why the handbrake on a Lada Granta may malfunction and fail:

brake pad wear;
stretching the cable.

This is not least due to the fact that the manual braking system on a budget liftback from the giant of the Russian automotive industry is designed quite simply and consists of only three components:

the handbrake control lever itself, equipped with a rod and a pair of nuts - one lock nut and one adjusting nut;
cable equalizer and spacers with a brake pad drive lever;
the right and left cables of the pad drive mechanism on both rear wheels - on the right and left, respectively.

Brake system of the Lada Granta 2190 car.

Brake system

- this is a car system, thanks to which you can control deceleration or reduction in speed, up to a complete stop, and also avoid movement or rolling when the car is parked.

The brake system of a Lada Granta car includes such elements as brake pads, brake cylinders, brake hoses and pipelines, a vacuum brake booster, a brake force distributor, a master cylinder, etc.

The Granta's braking system largely replicates that of the Lada Kalina. The system is two-circuit. This means that the 2 circuits operate independently of each other. That is, if one circuit loses its tightness, the second one remains operational. That is why the left and right sides of the car are included in one circuit. For safer braking, if one of the brake circuits fails, the right and left sides should brake equally. This is achieved by connecting pairs of wheels into one circuit: left front - right rear; right front - left rear.

For more efficient and comfortable braking, the Lada Granta uses a vacuum brake booster (VUT). It increases the force applied to the brake pedal several times. It should be noted that the VUT is operational only when the engine is running. Therefore, you should not turn off the car’s ignition when coasting down a hill - you will have the feeling that the brakes have disappeared.

Hydraulic diagram of Lada Granta brakes (version without ABS)

1, 25 — brake mechanisms of the right front and left front wheels;
2, 24 — brake hose for supplying brake fluid to the right and left front wheels;
3, 4, 15, 18, 21, 5, 10, 13, 22, 27 - hydraulic brake system pipelines;
6 — plastic reservoir of the brake master cylinder;
7 — main cylinder for hydraulic brakes;
8 — vacuum booster;
9, 30 — pipeline holders;
11 — flexible hose of the brake mechanism of the right rear wheel;
12, 17 - brake mechanism of the right rear wheel;
14, 31 — brackets for fastening flexible hoses;
16- flexible hose for the brake mechanism of the left rear wheel;
19 — elastic lever of the pressure regulator drive;
20 — pressure regulator;
23 – brake pedal;
24 — flexible brake mechanism of the left front wheel;
26 — tee of the circuit right front - left rear brake;
28 - tee of the left front - right rear brake circuit;
29 - tee mounting bolts Depending on the configuration, an anti-lock brake system can be installed on the Lada Granta, which prevents the wheels from skidding, thereby increasing stability and maintaining vehicle controllability during emergency braking.
Hydraulic diagram of Lada Granta brakes with ABS system
1, 14, 22 — brackets for fastening flexible hoses;
2 — brake mechanism of the right front wheel;
3 — flexible hose of the brake mechanism of the right front wheel;
4, 5, 15, 18, 26 - pipelines of the right front - left rear brake circuit;
6, 10, 13, 27, 28 - pipelines of the left front - right rear brake circuit;
7 — plastic reservoir of the main brake cylinder;
8-vacuum booster;
9, 24 — pipeline holders;
11 — flexible hose of the brake mechanism of the right rear wheel;
12 — rear wheel brake mechanism;
16 - brake mechanism of the rear left wheel;
17 — flexible hose of the brake mechanism of the left rear wheel;
19 – brake pedal; 20-brake mechanism of the left front wheel;
21 — flexible hose of the brake mechanism of the left front wheel;
23 — main cylinder for hydraulic brakes;
25 — hydro-electronic ABS module
In this section you can find a description of replacing brake pads, hoses, and the operation of the vacuum brake cylinder.

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

This is the peculiarity of the mechanism, which is why you often have to tighten the handbrake. Plus low-quality spare parts from the beginning, and a design that has not changed since the time of Tsar Pea!

In foreign cars (not all of course), the rear brake mechanism (drum or disc) has self-tensioning springs, which are tightened depending on the wear of the pads.

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/