How to properly tighten a camshaft

03/24/2021 10,077 VAZ 2106

Author: Ivan Baranov

Replacing the camshaft on a VAZ 2106 may be required for various reasons, but before moving on to this process you need to have an idea of ​​the purpose of this unit. The camshaft is the main timing link and participates in the combustion process of the combustible mixture.

The camshaft is located at the top of the cylinder head. It is connected to a pulley or toothed sprocket of the crankshaft via a belt or chain drive.


VAZ 2106 car near a pond [Hide]

If the camshaft fails

The camshaft on the VAZ 2106 model is rarely dismantled. Typically during repair or disassembly. Sometimes to replace it.

Signs

First, let's talk a little about the signs that indicate that the camshaft is faulty, its journals or beds are worn out. It is difficult to determine whether the shaft or something else is knocking in the VAZ 2106 engine, but it is possible. The knock of the camshaft is dull and clearly audible. As engine speed increases, the knocking becomes more frequent.

Some drivers determine knocking in this unit using a stethoscope or a stick through the valve cover. But often it is difficult for an inexperienced driver to do this. Therefore, the best way to diagnose the camshaft is to remove it, wash it and inspect it.

If the camshaft is faulty, the following symptoms may occur:

  • a dull knock, reminiscent of hammer blows;
  • it is impossible to adjust the valve clearances; while the crankshaft is turning, the camshaft is constantly in different positions.

This video shows how you can eliminate longitudinal runout of a camshaft.

The most reliable method for diagnosing problems with the VAZ 2106 camshaft is to dismantle it from the car and wash it. You can wash it in gasoline or other cleaning liquid. Next, you need to hold the shaft and hit the bed, when you hear the slightest knock, we determine whether the mechanism is worn out. Be sure to make sure that the shaft does not move in bed, because when it hits the limiter it will make a dull knock.

Removed shaft

The camshaft has a great influence on the pressure in the lubrication system. If the gaps between the bed and the camshaft are large, then the pressure will be low, and as a result, unsatisfactory lubrication of other parts.

Causes

The main malfunctions that result in the need to replace the camshaft are its wear, the appearance of various scuffs and grooves on the bearing journals. Likewise, replacing the camshaft is necessary if it is found to be deformed or cracked. When such malfunctions occur, the power unit loses power and also begins to function intermittently. Problems with the camshaft are identified by a knocking sound in the cylinder head.

The camshaft on the “six” is rarely removed. In addition to the above reasons for replacing and reconfiguring the power unit. After this, you can notice a significant increase in power, like in sports cars.

Torque and sequence of tightening the camshaft bed

Camshaft cover tightening sequence

Correct tightening of the camshaft bed, as well as other parts of the cylinder head, determines the normal functioning of all components and assemblies. So, in order to tighten threaded connections, a standard tightening pattern and a torque wrench are used.

Before installing the bolts in place, they must be washed thoroughly and lubricated with silicone grease.

In order to properly tighten the bolts, you need to know the sequence. It starts from the middle part and gradually moves directly to the edges. The detailed sequence can be seen in the photo below.

Tightening diagram for each camshaft bed bolt with numbering

As for the tightening force itself, it is 8.0-10.0 Nm . After the bed is installed on the block head, the connection bolts are tightened by hand or without much force using a ratchet with a head.

We tighten all the bolts by hand, but do not tighten them

When all the bolts are in place, you need to take a torque wrench and tighten them according to the standards in the order indicated above.

Torque wrench for tightening threaded connections

Replacement Guide

The work of removing the crankshaft on a VAZ 2106 is somewhat labor-intensive, but a driver with little experience can do it. We do not need special equipment or special tools to work.

Set of tools

  • set of heads;
  • ratchet;
  • knob;
  • extension;
  • a set of keys;
  • rags.

Wrenches for tightening and loosening bolts

Sequencing

  1. To get to the crankshaft, you first need to remove the air filter and housing.
  2. Next, disconnect the choke cable.
  3. Gas damper drive.
  4. Clean and wash the valve covers thoroughly. Usually dust and dirt accumulate on it, otherwise they may get inside the motor.
  5. Now you need to unscrew all the nuts and remove the valve cover. Experts recommend replacing the gasket when removing the valve cover. When purchasing, buy a rubber-cork one, as it holds oil much better than rubber.
  6. By removing the cover, we gain access to the camshaft; in most cases it is very dirty.
  7. Now you need to loosen the camshaft sprocket fasteners. To prevent the motor from turning over, insert a screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain.
  8. Important! Be sure to align the mark on the crankshaft and the camshaft sprocket. You must strive to ensure that the mark on the crankshaft pulley is against the long mark, and the mark on the camshaft sprocket is against the protrusion on the camshaft bed.
  9. After alignment, we proceed to removing the chain tensioner.
  10. Unscrew the nuts with a wrench.
  11. Remove the tensioner.
  12. We remove the star, which is located on the guide pin.
  13. After unscrewing the bolt securing the sprocket, remove the sprocket. A hammer may be needed here.
  14. We tie it to a chain.
  15. Now you need to unscrew the nuts securing the crankshaft and remove it.
  16. By the way, it will be noted that if a stud with a nut is turned out, then it is screwed back in with a special stud turner.
  17. Next, we inspect the camshaft and replace it if necessary.
  18. The shaft is clamped according to the diagram. The tightening order must be observed. The tightening torque is also important. On a VAZ 2106 car, the tightening torque is 18.3 N/m.
  19. When assembling, be sure to check that the marks are aligned correctly. If they are out of order, they need to be set correctly.
  20. Finally, adjust the tension of the chain and valves.

Shaft location under the hood Air filter housing Camshaft Alignment of the marks on the crankshaft Alignment of the marks on the sprocket Chain tensioner Sprocket and chain linkage Removed shaft Shaft bolt tightening pattern during installation

If you still have questions and do not understand how the installation is carried out, at what torque the tightening is done or how to set the marks, then after reading, watch the video we offer.

Camshaft VAZ 2106

The camshaft is an integral part in the design of the gas distribution mechanism (GRM) of any engine. It is made in the form of a cylinder on which necks and cams are located.

Description

On the sixth model Zhiguli, the timing mechanism shaft is installed in the cylinder head (cylinder head) of the engine. This arrangement allows you to repair and change the part, as well as adjust the valve clearances without any difficulties. The shaft is accessible after removing the valve cover. The camshaft (CV) is assigned the role of controlling the opening and closing of valves in the engine cylinders - at the right moment it admits the fuel-air mixture into the cylinder and releases exhaust gases. A gear is installed on the camshaft, which is connected to the crankshaft sprocket through a chain. This design ensures simultaneous rotation of both shafts.

On the camshaft there are cams and journals, by means of which the shaft is held on supports

Since the crankshaft and camshaft have gears of different sizes, the rotation speed of the latter is halved. The full operating cycle in the power unit occurs in one revolution of the camshaft and two revolutions of the crankshaft. The valves in the cylinder head open in a certain order under the influence of the corresponding cams on the pushers, i.e., when the camshaft rotates, the cam presses on the pusher and transmits force to the valve, pressed by the springs. In this case, the valve opens and admits the fuel-air mixture or releases exhaust gases. As the cam rotates further, the valve closes.

The cylinder head consists of the following parts: 1 - cylinder head; 2 — exhaust valve; 3 — oil deflector cap; 4 — valve lever; 5 — camshaft bearing housing; 6 - camshaft; 7 — adjusting bolt; 8—bolt lock nut; A - gap between the lever and the camshaft cam

Options

The “six” camshaft has the following characteristics:

  • phase width - 232˚;
  • intake valve lift height - 9.5 mm;
  • intake valve lag - 40˚;
  • exhaust valve advance is 42˚.

On the sixth model Zhiguli, the timing mechanism has eight valves, i.e. two for each cylinder, the number of cams is equal to the number of valves.

Which camshaft is better to install

Only one gas distribution shaft is suitable for the VAZ 2106 - from the Niva. The part is installed in order to increase the power and dynamic performance of the car. It is possible to achieve the desired results, albeit small ones, by increasing the width of the phases and the lift height of the intake valves. After installing the RV from Niva, these parameters will have values ​​of 283˚ and 10.7 mm. Thus, the intake valve will be open for a longer time and raised to a greater height relative to the seat, which will ensure that more fuel enters the cylinders.

When replacing the standard camshaft with a part from a VAZ 21213, the engine parameters will not change dramatically. You can install a “sports” shaft intended for tuning, but it is not cheap - 4-10 thousand rubles.

To improve the dynamic performance of the car, a “sports” camshaft is installed

Table: main parameters of “sports” camshafts for “classics”

NamePhase width, oValve lift height, mm
"Estonian"25610,5
"Estonian +"28911,2
"Estonian-M"25611,33
Shrik-129611,8
"Shrik-3"30412,1

Signs of Camshaft Wear

The operation of the camshaft is associated with constant exposure to high loads, as a result of which the part gradually wears out and requires replacement. The need for repair arises when characteristic symptoms appear:

  • knocking when the engine is running under load;
  • reduction in power indicators.

There are a number of reasons why the RV fails:

  • natural wear and tear;
  • low-quality motor oil;
  • low oil pressure in the lubrication system;
  • insufficient oil level or so-called oil starvation;
  • engine operation at high temperatures, which leads to deterioration of the lubricant properties;
  • mechanical damage (wear or broken chain).

The main malfunctions that impair the performance of the camshaft are scuffing on the working surfaces (journals and cams) and deterioration of the limiter.

Over time, the camshaft's cams and journals wear out.

Knock

It is quite problematic to determine from the sounds coming from the engine compartment that the problem is related specifically to the camshaft, but it is still possible. The knocking sound of the engine resembles the dull blows of a hammer, which become more frequent as the engine speed increases. However, the best way to diagnose a shaft is to dismantle, disassemble and troubleshoot it. During inspection, the shaft should not move in the housing relative to the axis, otherwise a dull sound will be produced when hitting the limiter.

Video: reasons for the longitudinal play of the VAZ camshaft

Power reduction

The drop in power on classic Zhiguli cars is a phenomenon caused by wear of the camshaft and rockers. With proper engine operation (timely oil changes, monitoring its level and pressure), the problem only appears over long vehicle runs. When the cams wear out, the required phase width and valve lift at the intake are no longer ensured.

When the shaft and rockers wear out, the motor power may decrease several times

Deformation

The RV can become deformed under extreme heat, which is caused by problems in the cooling and lubrication systems. At first, the problem may manifest itself as a knocking sound. Therefore, if there is a suspicion of this breakdown, for example, the motor has overheated, then it is recommended to diagnose the shaft in order to avoid more serious troubles with the engine timing belt.

Dismantling the camshaft VAZ 2106

To carry out repair work or replace the camshaft on the “six”, you need to prepare the following tools:

  • 17 and 13 mm heads;
  • ratchet handle;
  • knob;
  • extension;
  • open-end or socket wrench 13 mm.

To remove the camshaft you will need a set of wrenches and sockets.

We dismantle the unit in the following sequence:

  1. Remove the valve cover from the cylinder head. Unscrew the nuts securing the valve cover and remove it from the engine.
  2. We unscrew the cap nut of the chain tensioner and remove its rod using a screwdriver, after which we tighten the nut. We loosen the chain tension by unscrewing the cap nut with a 13 mm wrench
  3. Unbend the lock washer. The bolt holding the camshaft gear is secured with a lock washer.
  4. Unscrew the bolt holding the camshaft sprocket using a 17 mm wrench. To prevent the shaft from turning, we place the car in gear and place a stop under the wheels. To remove the camshaft sprocket, unscrew the bolt with a 17 mm wrench
  5. We move the star to the side. Having unscrewed the fastening, we move the gear together with the chain to the side
  6. We unscrew the nuts securing the mechanism housing with a 13 mm wrench or socket. The camshaft housing is attached to the cylinder head with nuts, unscrew them
  7. If you plan to completely disassemble the RV, you need to unscrew two more nuts with a 10 mm wrench. If the camshaft will be removed from the housing, unscrew the two 10 mm nuts
  8. When all the fastening elements are unscrewed, we take the cover of the product and, with some effort, pull it up through the studs, slightly swinging it to the sides. When the camshaft is freed from the fasteners, pull it up from the studs
  9. On the back side of the camshaft, lightly tap with a hammer through a wooden adapter.
  10. We push the shaft forward and remove it from the housing. To remove the shaft from the housing, just tap lightly through the wooden extension on the back side, and then push it out

When I carry out repair work on the camshaft after it has been removed from the cylinder head, I cover the head with a clean rag and press it, for example, with a tool. This prevents various debris from entering both the lubrication channels and the surface of the rockers. It is especially important to protect the exposed part of the engine during repairs outdoors, since the wind can cause a lot of dust and debris, which I have encountered many times. Before installing it into the housing, I also wipe the new shaft with a clean cloth.

Removing and installing the camshaft

Removal is most often necessary either during a major overhaul or for replacement in cases of failure. To carry out the work, the following tools are required:

  • heads for 10, 13 and 17;
  • handle with ratchet;
  • knob;
  • extension cord with cardan;
  • socket wrench 13;
  • device for mounting and dismantling the VAZ camshaft.

First, the valve cover is removed, which is bolted to the cylinder head and has a rubber gasket. Try not to damage it, otherwise oil may leak in the future. After this, the timing chain tensioner is unscrewed. It is located on the right side of the engine when viewed from the interior. The camshaft gear is turned by the head to 17.

For convenience, place the car in gear and place wheel chocks under the rear wheel. Move the gear to the side; if necessary, you can pry it off with a convenient tool. Now all the nuts that secure the camshaft housing must be unscrewed. To make the job easier, use a wrench first.

Camshaft installation

The shaft installation process occurs in the reverse order using the same tools as for its removal. Additionally, you will need a torque wrench that can be used to control the tightening force. The work is carried out as follows:

  1. Before installing the part into the body, lubricate the support journals, bearings and cams with clean engine oil. Lubricate the camshaft journals and cams with clean engine oil before installing them in the housing.
  2. We mount the product into the housing and tighten the fastening of the thrust plate. After installing the shaft into the housing, fix it with a thrust plate
  3. Checking the rotation of the shaft. It should rotate easily around its axis.
  4. We mount the housing together with the shaft on the studs in the cylinder head and tighten it in a certain sequence with a force of 18.3–22.6 Nm. The camshaft should be tightened to 18.3–22.6 Nm in a specific sequence
  5. We perform final assembly after marking.

To ensure that the camshaft is evenly pressed against the cylinder head, tightening should be performed in several stages.

Video: installing the camshaft on classic Zhiguli cars

Installation by marks

Upon completion of the replacement, it is necessary to align the camshaft and crankshaft to the marks. Only after such a procedure will the ignition timing be correct and engine operation stable. An additional tool you will need is a wrench to rotate the crankshaft, and the work itself consists of the following steps:

  1. We put the RV sprocket in place and tighten it, but not completely.
  2. We tighten the chain. To do this, unscrew the tensioner nut, turn the crankshaft a little, and then tighten the nut back.
  3. We turn the crankshaft with a wrench until the mark on the pulley is positioned opposite the length of the mark on the timing cover. We turn the crankshaft until the mark on the pulley is positioned opposite the long mark on the timing cover
  4. The mark on the RV star should coincide with the ebb on the body. If this does not happen, unscrew the bolt, remove the gear and shift the chain by one tooth in the required direction. To install the camshaft according to the marks, the recess on the gear must coincide with the casting on the bearing housing
  5. We install and clamp the gear with a bolt, check that the marks on both shafts match. We fix the bolt with a special washer. After setting the marks, clamp the camshaft gear with a bolt
  6. We adjust the thermal clearance of the valves.
  7. We install the valve cover, tightening it in a certain order. The valve cover must be tightened in a certain order, without applying much force.
  8. We install the remaining elements in their places.

When reinstalling the valve cover, I always pay attention to the condition of the gasket, even if it has recently been changed. There should be no tears, strong pressing or other damage. In addition, the seal should not be “oak”, but elastic. If the condition of the gasket leaves much to be desired, I always replace it with a new one, thereby eliminating possible oil leakage in the future.

Adjustment of valves

It is recommended to adjust the valves on the “classic” every 30 thousand km. mileage or after engine repair. Tools you need to prepare:

  • open-end wrench for 13 and 17;
  • probe 0.15 mm.

To adjust the thermal clearances of the valves, use a special probe

The work is carried out on a cooled engine after removing the valve covers and tensioning the chain:

  1. We combine the crankshaft and camshaft marks with the marks, which corresponds to the top dead center of the fourth cylinder.
  2. We check the clearance of valves 6 and 8. To do this, insert a feeler gauge between the cam PB and the rocker. If it fits in without effort, the gap needs to be made smaller. If it fits tight, then more. To check the gap between the rocker and the cam RV, insert a feeler gauge
  3. To adjust, loosen the lock nut with a 17 mm wrench, and use a 13 mm wrench to set the required gap, after which we tighten the lock nut. To loosen the tightening of the adjusting screw, use a 17 mm wrench to unscrew the lock nut, then adjust the gap with a 13 mm wrench
  4. We adjust the remaining valves in the same way, but in a certain order, for which we turn the crankshaft.

Table: procedure for adjusting cylinder head valves on a “classic”

Crankshaft rotation angle, oCamshaft rotation angle, oCylinder numbersAdjustable valve numbers
004 and 38 and 6
180902 and 44 and 7
3601801 and 21 and 3
5402703 and 15 and 2

Video: adjusting valves on a VAZ 2101–07

Some car enthusiasts use a narrow feeler gauge from the kit to set valve clearances. I would not recommend using it for the procedure in question, since if the valve lever is skewed, and the rockers can be skewed even with normal springs and good condition of the valve, a narrow feeler gauge will not allow for precise adjustment. And it’s more convenient to set the gap with a wide feeler gauge.

If there is no special feeler gauge for adjusting the valves, you can use a narrow feeler gauge from the kit

Replacing the camshaft on a VAZ 2106 does not require the owner to have high qualifications or special tools. Repairs can be carried out in a garage with a regular car set of keys and screwdrivers. If you follow the step-by-step instructions, the procedure will take about 2-3 hours, after which the gas distribution mechanism of your car will work clearly and smoothly.

conclusions

The torque and sequence of tightening the camshaft bed on the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engines must be correct, since this factor affects the operation of the cylinder head and the engine as a whole. Thus, incorrect implementation of the procedure can lead to more serious consequences. If the car enthusiast is not able to do this on his own, then it is necessary to contact a car service, where everything will be done quickly and efficiently.

Greetings to all) people, tell me how to correctly tighten the camshafts (tightening sequence) of the camshafts on the 1.8t family

Comments 13

Do not tighten the yoke crosswise.

By the way, thanks for the camshaft) everything is cool)

Please) has it arrived yet?

I’ve already run it in) I tried a short chain without a cylinder head) as in the teaser) tomorrow I’ll finish lubrication of the chain and report)

I wonder how time will show)

It will be visible in 1000 km, I'll just lubricate the chain

I’ve already run it in) I tried a short chain without a cylinder head) as in the teaser) tomorrow I’ll finish lubrication of the chain and report)

I'm looking forward to it! The topic of GNC is very relevant!

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