Tips on how to change silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 front and rear

Silent blocks are the most important part of the front suspension of a car. Their condition directly affects the angle of inclination of the wheels and, as a consequence, the wear rate of the machine’s chassis. Therefore, less experienced owners should carefully monitor these parts and make timely replacements if necessary. It is quite possible to repair the silent block of the front arm of a VAZ 2110 yourself. Some features of this process will be described in the article. However, if you feel unsure of your own abilities, it is better to contact a service station.

How to determine the need for replacement

Content

The silent blocks of the front levers of the VAZ 2110, at the slightest violation in installation or a certain degree of wear, quite clearly make it clear to the car owner about the problem that has arisen. The very first and most obvious sign will be the distinct sound of iron striking in the front of the car, as well as a clear change in the quality of car control.

However, such clear evidence of a malfunction is preceded by less noticeable ones:

during the control process, the sounds of rubber squeaking are heard, and the louder, the more advanced the situation;
while driving, there is a clear and uniform tapping sound in the area of the wheels, which indicates poor fixation of the silent block and its gradual destruction due to this;
if the knocking becomes distinct, it is better to use a jack and examine the silent block more carefully. Perhaps its destruction has begun, as evidenced by cracks appearing on the surface. If this is the case, you need to start replacing as soon as possible.

If time is lost, the connecting elements will collapse, which will lead to wear and gaps between the elements, and the wheel alignment angles will be disrupted. This will affect the functional condition of the car and will only reduce its service life several times.

Replacing the suspension arm

Replacing the suspension arm on a VAZ 2110 is necessary when cracks, chips, wear and tear of rubber are detected. To do this, you need to place the car on a flat surface (it should have its wheels on the ground), and place shoes under the rear wheels. Loosen the bolts of the front wheels, and only now place the front of the car on supports. Remove the wheels and then the crankcase protection of your VAZ 2110.

More information about repair and tuning of the rear suspension can be read in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/zadnyaya-podveska.html

When unscrewing the nuts holding the suspension arm, and then the ball joint, you should hold the bolts from turning on the reverse side. As you remove the washers from the guy wire, count them and mark which one comes next. When installing a new lever, they must be placed in the same order. Typically, a complete replacement of the lever is carried out if the hinges are damaged. Before tightening all connections, it is better to lower the VAZ 2110 to the ground.

Replacing front suspension silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

Inexperienced car owners are tormented by doubts about the need to change parts themselves. Of course, this can be explained by a lack of skill. However, as experience shows, work carried out at a service station does not guarantee a high-quality result. In addition, this will entail quite noticeable financial costs. Therefore, it makes sense to try to replace the silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 yourself, using the help of numerous videos and more experienced comrades.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands is done using a set of simple tools. But it is worth remembering that there are two similar elements on the front beam, the sequence of changing which is slightly different.

Replacing the upper silent block

To change you need to do the following:

Raise the car using a jack or lift. In the first case, there is a need for rigid fixation, so you need to turn on the handbrake and ensure that the wheels do not move.
Remove the wheel and also unscrew and dismantle the support. Most likely, there will be problems with unhindered extraction, so to speed up the process, you can lightly hit the bipod with a hammer, preferably through a soft insert or fabric.
After this, you can easily dismantle the upper arm.
There is a bolt on it that needs to be unscrewed and removed.
Next, the silent block itself is dismantled. It can be done using a hammer and chisel, with extreme precision and care so as not to damage other parts. In particularly difficult cases, you can drill it out using a drill.
Coat the new silent block with sealant and install it in the socket. In this case, you can use the old silent block to create a soft layer that will help maintain the integrity of the new part during installation.

Axial play can be eliminated either by completely replacing the post, or by tightening additional washers on both sides. The first method - replacing the front struts on a VAZ 2110 - can even be done with your own hands, but this often does not help due to the low quality of the parts and their high cost. When using the second option, it is possible to reduce the space for the silent block. This will require manual reduction, which will shorten the service life. Each method has its drawbacks; when choosing, you need to focus on the degree of wear.

Replacing the lower silent block

The procedure is a little more complicated than the previous one, but it will also be feasible for the car owner.

Remove the stabilizer struts - this will ensure the mobility of the lever.
Unscrew all retaining nuts and remove them.
Remove the lower silent blocks and install new ones in the same sequence as the upper ones.
A feature of the replacement is the need to carry out work with a loaded vehicle. Otherwise, the installation will not proceed correctly, and the parts will soon have to be changed again.

As it becomes clear even from the description of the process, replacing the front silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands will take quite a bit of time and will be quite feasible. If you lack the desire or technical capabilities, it makes sense to contact a service station. When choosing it, you need to be confident in the quality of the work being carried out, since the silent block is one of the most important parts that ensures high-quality vehicle control and the safety of all passengers and the driver.

DIY replacement

Even in an ordinary garage, high-quality replacement of silent blocks is possible. To do this, you only need to have a puller, which you can make yourself, having a simple drawing. Or you can borrow it from your motorist friends.

Silent block remover

Such a device will become an assistant when removing and then further installing new silent blocks. It consists of two tubes and washers. The length of the puller legs is about 20 cm.

Some, having adapted, make do with a mandrel.

Problems and malfunctions of the front beam of the VAZ 2110 and ways to solve them

The role of the front suspension

Of course, all the units in a car are important, and they only set it in motion as a whole.
But the topic of our conversation will be the front beam on the VAZ 2110 - its purpose, fault diagnosis, as well as repair or replacement of components. Without suspension, in fact, there would be no way to secure the wheels. It is she who is responsible for the angle at which the wheels will be located, how quickly the tires will wear out, and how quickly the car will run.

VAZ 2110 front suspension diagram

Diagnostics

To diagnose whether everything is in order with the suspension, you need, first of all, to listen to how your VAZ 2110 behaves while driving. This doesn’t even require long distances – for an experienced driver, a couple of kilometers will be enough.

So, let's listen to the suspension:

You can hear tires squeaking while driving. Moreover, the creaking may not be strong, but it still indicates that the suspension is not all right, and the main reason is that the silent blocks need to be replaced;
When you hear a creak, be sure to inspect the silent blocks; you may notice cracks or even tears in the rubber;
And if you hear not a creaking sound, but a knocking sound, it means that the silent blocks of your VAZ 2110 are already fairly worn out, and they simply need to be replaced. These heavily worn parts do not even have enough strength to spin, so instead of sliding, they “slip” and make knocking noises;
Certain knocking noises can also be caused by the front beam with braces; axial play may occur in them. Such beams are subject to repair, and in particularly advanced cases, complete replacement is necessary.

Replacing silent blocks on the front beam

Once you have changed this extremely important part of the front suspension, you will understand that this work does not have to be entrusted to professionals; it is quite possible to carry out the repair yourself. To do this, you need to have a special puller, or make one using two pieces of pipe with washers welded to them. If you don’t understand how to properly make a simple puller, you can either buy it or ask experienced motorists, they probably have it.

On the VAZ 2110, silent blocks are replaced in the following order:

We “hang” the front wheel using a jack. Be sure to place clamps on both sides under the rear wheels (special shoes or just stones) so that the car does not come off the jack and the beams do not crush you;
Remove the jacked wheel;
Check to see if the silent blocks are loose in the beam arm. If they are loose, then that too needs to be repaired;
Knock out the upper support: first unscrew its nut, turn out the wheel and hit it accurately, but not too hard, on the bipod. This way the support will pop out;
Remove the upper arm. To do this, unscrew the long bolt of the lever (it is located on top);
Now you have access to silent blocks. They need to be knocked out with a chisel, hitting them with a hammer. They usually pop out easily on a VAZ 2110, even after one well-aimed blow;
You need to put a new one in place of the old silent block. This is done by pressing: using a smaller sleeve, the size of the skirt, the larger one is pressed into the lever. For greater sliding ability, you need to clean the old socket, and then wet all parts with soapy water.

After pressing, there should be no play, otherwise the front suspension will still cause you trouble.

Replacing the lower silent blocks

To change the lower silent blocks, you need to put in a little more effort.

Remove the stabilizer to allow the arm to move;
Unscrew all the nuts holding the silent block motionless;
Knock them out using the method already described;
And press in new ones.

An article dedicated to the independent replacement of silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 is located here: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/saylentbloki.html

Replacing the suspension arm

More information about repair and tuning of the rear suspension can be read in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/zadnyaya-podveska.html

Removing front suspension elements

First, we will describe the sequence of actions to restore the front suspension.

It is better to perform all work in an inspection hole, so you need to place the car on it and immediately loosen the front wheel fastenings.

The front of the car is jacked up on both sides. First, they lift one side, install supports under it, and then lift the second side with a jack and also fix it with supports, after which the wheels are removed.

The first control arm to be removed from the car is the lower control arm. To do this, unscrew the nuts securing the extension, stabilizer strut and ball joint from it.

The lever is removed from the ball joint using a puller.

The last thing to unscrew is the nut securing the lever to the bracket on the body, the bolt is pulled out, and the lever is removed.

Next, the stretch is removed. Since it is already disconnected from the lever, all that remains is to unscrew the nut securing it to the cross member.

The last thing to be removed from the car is the stabilizer.

The stabilizer is attached through the struts to the levers on both sides, so you can either first dismantle it on the other side and start removing the stabilizer, or simply unscrew the nut securing its strut, and dismantle the lever itself and the brace later.

Having disconnected the stabilizer mounts to the arms, to remove it, all that remains is to unscrew the nuts securing the body brackets and remove the stabilizer along with the bushings.